Albania
Albania is like a cheaper version of Greece, and it can be just as beautiful, sharing the same Ionian coastline and the same turquoise water. It is a small, affordable country with a rough history and a lively capital. I went in late July and early August 2023. I spent a few days on the Riviera in Ksamil and a night in Tirana before moving on to Istanbul.
What I did
Landed in Tirana and headed straight south to the coast.
Spent two nights in Ksamil, a small beach town at the far south of the Albanian Riviera, facing Corfu.
Took beach days in some of the clearest water I have seen in Europe.
Came back up to Tirana for a night in the Blloku district, the old communist quarter turned cafe and bar area.
Went on to Istanbul from Tirana.
Where to stay
Ksamil: the best base for beaches and the little islands offshore. I stayed at a guesthouse here. It gets busy and loud in peak summer.
Sarandë: a bigger town nearby with more restaurants and the Corfu ferry, a good alternative to Ksamil.
Blloku, Tirana: once the sealed compound of the communist leadership, now the cafe and bar district. Walkable to Skanderbeg Square and the Grand Park. I stayed in an Airbnb in Blloku.
Himarë or Dhërmi: good bases if you want to explore the northern Riviera beaches.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Blloku area, Tirana: 4.99 on Airbnb (173 reviews). Spacious apartment in Blloku, Tirana's best neighborhood for food and nightlife.
Villa Abedini, Ksamil: 9.2/10 on Booking.com (580 reviews). Waterfront guesthouse in Ksamil near Butrint National Park with bar/lounge.
Getting there and around
Tirana airport is about 20 to 30 minutes from the center. There is an airport bus to the middle of town near Skanderbeg Square, or you can take a fixed price taxi.
Tirana to Ksamil is a long day by road. Minibuses, called furgons, run to Sarandë in about five hours, then it is a short hop to Ksamil. A rental car is the most flexible option.
Ferries run often in summer between Sarandë and Corfu, which is handy if you are continuing to Greece.
What to eat
Tavë kosi: baked lamb and rice in a yogurt and egg sauce, the national dish.
Fërgesë: peppers, tomatoes and cottage cheese, baked.
Byrek: phyllo pie with cheese, spinach or meat, a great bakery breakfast.
Grilled seafood on the coast: fish and mussels from the Butrint lagoon.
What to drink
Raki: grape or mulberry brandy, offered nearly everywhere as a welcome. Homemade versions are strong and often very good.
Wine: Albania has a long wine history. Look for Shesh i Zi (red) and Kallmet, with vineyards around Berat, Korçë and Përmet. Berat works as a day trip from Tirana.
Beer: Birra Tirana and Birra Korça are the local lagers, cheap and cold on a hot afternoon.
Coffee: espresso is everywhere, and long cafe sits are the national pastime in Tirana.
Spirits: Skënderbeu cognac is the local brandy, and a glass of raki follows most big meals.
Day trips and side trips
Butrint National Park, ten minutes from Ksamil.
Blue Eye spring and Lekursi Castle at sunset, both near Sarandë.
Gjirokastër, a UNESCO stone old town, as a day trip.
A ferry day trip to Corfu.
Krujë castle and bazaar, or Berat, from Tirana.
Festivals and events
Dita e Verës (Summer Day): Elbasan, usually on March 14. Locals celebrate the start of spring with traditional sweets and street events.
Independence Day: Vlorë, usually on November 28. Parades and flags mark the declaration of independence.
Tirana International Film Festival: Tirana, usually in autumn. A good reason to visit the capital outside summer.
Festivali i Këngës: Tirana, usually in December. The long running national song contest.
Music and dance
Folk dance: Albanian circle dances (vallja) are danced at weddings and festivals, and folk ensembles perform in Tirana and Gjirokastër.
Dancing out: Blloku bars in Tirana and the Riviera beach clubs in summer are where people go dancing.
Albanian folk: the iso-polyphonic singing of the south is UNESCO listed and worth hearing in Gjirokastër or Berat.
Pop and trap: Albanian pop is huge in cafes and cars, and Albania has produced global stars.
Live: Blloku in Tirana has bars with live sets, and beach clubs on the Riviera run DJ nights in summer.
Don't miss
Butrint National Park, a UNESCO site of Greek, Roman and Venetian ruins.
A kayak or boat out to the Ksamil islands.
Berat, the city of a thousand windows.
The Bunk'Art museums and the House of Leaves in Tirana.
The Pyramid of Tirana and Skanderbeg Square.
The Riviera drive north through Himarë and over the Llogara Pass.
Photography spots
Ksamil islands: from above at golden hour. The water color also pops in strong midday sun.
Butrint: early morning light through the ruins and lagoon.
Tirana: the painted buildings, the Pyramid and Skanderbeg Square at blue hour.
Berat and Gjirokastër: stone towns from across the valley in late afternoon.
Drones: Albania has been strict, with permits needed and drones sometimes held at customs. Check current rules.
My experience
Albania is the Greek islands at a fraction of the price. Same coastline, same water, far smaller bills. It felt relaxed, friendly and a little rough around the edges in a good way. Ksamil in peak summer was crowded, but the water made up for it. I only had five days, so I would go back in May or September and see the stone towns. I would recommend it to beach lovers on a budget and anyone curious about the Balkans.
Cost of living
Overall: Tirana and Ksamil: $$, about 55% cheaper than New York. Ksamil runs higher in peak August.
Coffee: about $2
Local lunch: about $6
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $45
Beer or cocktail: about $3 / $6
Ride across town: about $4
Mid-range hotel: about $60 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $500 a month in Tirana's Blloku, $450 in Durrës
Daily budget: about $40 budget, $80 comfortable, $200+ luxury in Tirana
Albania is one of the best value stops in Europe, especially away from the Ksamil beach clubs in peak August, where prices jump. Tirana is cheaper still. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Fast in Tirana (50 to 200 Mbps fiber is common) and decent in Ksamil, though it can be patchy in smaller towns. Occasional power cuts happen.
Coworking and cafes: Tirana is the main nomad base, with cafes in Blloku and the lowest costs. Durrës and Vlorë are cheaper beach alternatives, though they have little coworking.
Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (the gap shifts briefly with daylight saving).
Visa for longer stays: US citizens can stay up to a year visa-free, which is unusually generous. Albania also has a Unique Permit for remote workers. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 3 out of 5. Cheap, easy and long visa-free stays, but the nomad community is small and infrastructure outside Tirana is uneven.
Good to know
Language: Albanian. Italian is widely understood, and English is common with younger people in Tirana and on the coast.
Currency: The Albanian lek. Euros are often accepted on the coast at a worse rate. Plenty of places are cash only, including some guesthouses.
Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: Generally visa free, and historically for long stays. Albania is outside Schengen. Check current rules.
Best time to visit: May, June and September. July and August are peak beach season and the Riviera is packed, which is when I went.
Getting around: There is no Uber. Use local taxis in Tirana and agree on the price first outside the capital, or rent a car.
SIM/eSIM: Vodafone Albania and One. EU roaming does not apply, so a Balkans or regional eSIM works.
Apps: Local taxi apps in Tirana, and Baboon and Wolt for delivery.
Water: Bottled water is the safer choice.
Tipping: Not expected, but 5 to 10 percent at restaurants is appreciated. Round up for taxis.
Useful phrases
Hello: Përshëndetje (formal) or Tung (casual)
Thank you: Faleminderit
Please: Ju lutem
How much?: Sa kushton?
The check, please: Llogarinë, ju lutem
Nightlife
Nightlife in Albania is social and relaxed, centered on terraces, cafes that turn into bars, and in summer the beach clubs on the coast. It is cheaper and less polished than Western Europe, which most American visitors find a pleasant surprise.
When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9, bars in Tirana fill by 11, and clubs run until 3 or 4. Friday and Saturday are the big nights, and the coast is busiest in July and August.
Where the action is: Blloku is the center in Tirana. On the Riviera, Sarandë, Himarë and Dhërmi have the beach bars and summer parties, while Ksamil is more laid back.
The music: Mostly house, pop and Balkan and Albanian hits, with DJ sets at the beach clubs.
Good to know: Covers are rare at bars and modest at clubs, and drinks are cheap by European standards except at peak season beach clubs. Dress is casual to smart casual. Use a taxi app or agree on the price before you ride, and watch your drink at crowded beach bars.
Meeting people
Social scene: Tirana is the easiest place to meet people, with a young cafe culture in the Blloku area. Along the Riviera, hostels and beach bars in Ksamil and Himara are social in summer. Locals are friendly and curious about visitors.
Apps: Facebook groups and WhatsApp groups for expats in Tirana, plus Couchsurfing and Meetup events. Tinder and Bumble are used in Tirana. Hostel noticeboards work well on the coast.
Etiquette: A handshake is normal on meeting, and friends often kiss on both cheeks. Plans are relaxed and start times slide. Coffee is the main social ritual and the host usually pays, so offer to get the next round.
Stay smart: Meet in public places first, watch your drink in beach bars and agree on the price of a taxi before you get in.
Staying safe
Albania is safe and friendly. Driving is the main risk, with aggressive overtaking and roads that change quality fast.
Agree on the taxi price before you get in outside Tirana.
Ksamil beaches get very crowded, so keep an eye on your bag at busy beach clubs.