Bosnia and Herzegovina

Written By Alex Hall

Bosnia and Herzegovina is a country of Ottoman bridges, mountain rivers and a complicated recent history. I visited in September 2022 on a day trip across the border while I was based in Split, Croatia. It was a short look, and I left wanting more time.

What I did

  • Crossed the border from Croatia for the day during a month based in Split.

  • Spent the day on the road and in town, with no overnight stay.

  • Came away convinced the country deserves a longer trip.

Where to stay

  • Mostar old town: stay overnight if you can, since the bridge is much calmer after the day trippers leave.

  • Sarajevo, Baščaršija: the old bazaar quarter is the best base, with everything on foot.

  • Near the Latin Bridge, Sarajevo: central and good for walking the old town and the river.

Getting there and around

  • Sarajevo (SJJ) and Mostar (OMO) have airports, but many visitors arrive overland from Split or Dubrovnik in Croatia. There is no direct passenger train from the Croatian coast to Mostar, so the cross border leg is by road.

  • The coast road between Split and Dubrovnik crosses a short stretch of Bosnia at Neum, so carry your passport.

  • Sarajevo to Mostar is one of the most scenic train rides in the Balkans, and buses connect most towns. If you rent a car in Croatia, tell the company you are crossing the border.

What to eat

  • Ćevapi: small grilled sausages in somun bread with onions and kajmak.

  • Burek: meat pie in spiral phyllo. The cheese version is sirnica and the spinach version is zeljanica.

  • Begova čorba: a creamy chicken and okra soup.

  • Dolma and sarma: stuffed peppers and cabbage rolls.

What to drink

  • Coffee: Bosnian coffee is served in a džezva with a sugar cube and rahat lokum. Sit down and take your time, since it is a ritual.

  • Wine: Herzegovina makes real wine. Try Žilavka, a crisp white, and Blatina, a bold red. Vineyards around Čitluk are an easy stop from Mostar.

  • Spirits: rakija is the national spirit, most often šljivovica (plum) and lozovača (grape). Locals often make their own.

  • Beer: Sarajevsko and Nektar are the local lagers.

  • Boza and sherbet: traditional non alcoholic drinks you can find in the Baščaršija bazaar.

Day trips and side trips

  • The Kravice waterfalls, where you can swim in summer.

  • Blagaj Tekke at the source of the Buna River.

  • Počitelj, a hillside fortress village.

  • Una National Park and the Štrbački Buk waterfall near Bihać.

Festivals and events

  • Sarajevo Film Festival: Sarajevo, usually in August. One of the most important film festivals in southeastern Europe.

  • Mostar Bridge Diving: Mostar, usually in July. Divers jump from Stari Most in a long standing competition.

  • Baščaršija Nights: Sarajevo, usually from late June to July. Concerts and cultural events in the old town.

  • Jazz Fest Sarajevo: Sarajevo, usually in November. A solid lineup in the off season.

  • Sarajevo Winter Festival: Sarajevo, usually in February and March. Concerts, theater and art events.

Music and dance

  • Kolo: the traditional circle dance of the Balkans, danced at weddings and folk events.

  • Dancing out: Sarajevo's bars and clubs stay busy late, and summer terraces in Mostar often turn into dance floors.

  • Sevdalinka: the traditional Bosnian love song, slow and emotional, often heard in kafanas in Baščaršija.

  • Pop rock and Balkan folk: the old Yugoslav rock band Bijelo Dugme is still a classic, and folk and turbo folk fill cafes and weddings.

  • Live: Sarajevo's old town bars and Mostar's riverside terraces have live music on summer evenings.

Don't miss

  • Stari Most in Mostar, the rebuilt Ottoman bridge, and the bridge divers.

  • The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque minaret for the view of the bridge.

  • Baščaršija and the Latin Bridge in Sarajevo.

  • A Sarajevo war history tour, including the Tunnel of Hope.

  • The cable car up Mount Trebević to the abandoned bobsled track.

  • The scenic train from Sarajevo to Mostar.

Photography spots

  • Stari Most: early morning or evening, when the day trippers are gone.

  • Mostar from the minaret: the bridge and the Neretva from above.

  • Baščaršija, Sarajevo: the old bazaar lanes in late afternoon light.

  • Kravice waterfalls: softer light in the morning.

  • Drones: rules are strict and unclear, so check current rules before flying.

My experience

My time here was short, but it left a strong impression. Mostar felt busy with visitors at midday and much more local once things quieted down. I want to go back for a night in Mostar and then continue to Sarajevo. I would recommend it to travelers who like history and are already in Croatia or Montenegro.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Sarajevo and Mostar: $, about 60% cheaper than New York. Mostar is slightly pricier in summer.

  • Coffee: about $2

  • Local lunch: about $6

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $35

  • Beer or cocktail: about $2 / $5

  • Ride across town: about $3

  • Mid-range hotel: about $50 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $400 a month in Sarajevo's Centar, $350 in Mostar

  • Daily budget: about $35 budget, $70 comfortable, $150+ luxury

Bosnia is one of the cheapest places I have visited in Europe, and food in Mostar and Sarajevo is excellent value. Even a day trip from the coast can feel like a bargain. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Generally decent in cities at 30 to 100 Mbps, with weaker connections in mountain and rural areas.

  • Coworking and cafes: Sarajevo is the only real nomad base, with a few coworking spaces and cafes around Marijin Dvor. Mostar is best as a short stay, and Banja Luka is a quiet, cheap option.

  • Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (the gap shifts briefly with daylight saving).

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens can stay up to 90 days visa-free. Bosnia does not have a well-established digital nomad visa, so longer stays need a residence permit. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 2 out of 5. Very cheap and interesting, but a small nomad community and fewer services than neighboring countries.

Good to know

  • Language: Bosnian, Croatian and Serbian, which are mutually intelligible. English is spoken in tourist areas, and plenty of people speak German.

  • Currency: The convertible mark (BAM or KM), pegged to the euro. Euros are often accepted in Mostar, but change comes back in marks. Carry some cash.

  • Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.

  • Entry for US citizens: Bosnia is outside the EU and Schengen. US citizens have been visa free for short stays. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: May, June, September and October. July and August in Mostar are very hot.

  • Getting around: There is no Uber. Use registered taxis or local taxi apps, or take buses and trains.

  • SIM/eSIM: EU roaming does not apply. Use a local SIM from BH Telecom, m:tel or HT Eronet, or a Balkans eSIM.

  • Apps: Glovo and Korpa for delivery in bigger cities.

  • Water: Tap water is generally fine in the cities. Use bottled water if you are unsure.

  • Tipping: Round up or leave about 10 percent at restaurants.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Zdravo or Dobar dan

  • Thank you: Hvala

  • Please: Molim

  • How much?: Koliko košta?

  • The check, please: Račun, molim

Nightlife

I only did a day trip, so I did not go out at night. Evenings in Bosnia are slow and social, built around coffee, tea houses and rakija rather than big clubs.

  • When people go out: People sit over coffee or rakija until late. Clubs start after midnight and run until 3 or 4, with Friday and Saturday the big nights.

  • Where the action is: In Sarajevo, the Baščaršija old town and the streets around Ferhadija. In Mostar, the terrace bars near the Old Bridge.

  • The music: Balkan pop and folk, plus house and pop at clubs.

  • Good to know: Covers are low and drinks are cheap compared with the rest of Europe. Dress is casual to smart casual, and smoking is still common indoors. Use a licensed taxi at night and watch your belongings in crowded old town areas.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Sarajevo is the best base for meeting people, with a lively cafe culture and a small but welcoming international crowd. Locals are hospitable and often curious about visitors. Hostels and walking tours are the easiest way to meet other travelers.

  • Apps: Facebook groups, Couchsurfing hangouts and hostel events are the main options. Tinder and Bumble are used in Sarajevo, but the scene is small.

  • Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and friends may kiss on the cheek. Coffee is a long, slow ritual and not to be rushed. If you are invited to a home, bring a small gift. Hosts often insist on paying, so offer to cover the next round.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink and stay on marked paths outside the cities, since landmines remain in some rural areas.

Staying safe

  • Bosnia is safe for travelers. Stay on marked paths in rural areas, since some landmines from the 1990s war remain outside towns.

  • Mostar gets very hot in summer, so carry water and avoid the midday sun on the stone bridge.

  • Use registered taxis and agree on the fare first.

Alex Hall
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