Cambodia

Cambodia packs temples, history and easy travel into a small country. I went from late December 2025 to early January 2026, spending New Year's Eve in Phnom Penh and then four days in Siem Reap for Angkor. I arrived from Bangkok and moved on to Luang Prabang.

What I did

• Spent three nights in Phnom Penh, including New Year's Eve, based in the BKK1 district.

• Flew from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap.

• Spent four nights in Siem Reap, based near Pub Street and the Old Market.

• Explored the Angkor temples.

• Used the spa credit at my hotel after temple days.

Where to stay

• BKK1, Phnom Penh: the expat and embassy district, with cafes, rooftop bars and boutique hotels. Walkable to Independence Monument and a short tuk-tuk to the Royal Palace and Riverside. I stayed at One Residence.

• Riverside, Phnom Penh: better if you want to be near the palace and the promenade.

• Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap: the central area near Pub Street, the Old Market and the river. I stayed at Golden Temple Villa on Sok San Road, a quieter street a short walk from the action.

• Near Angkor: Angkor Wat is about 20 minutes north of town by tuk-tuk.

Where I stayed

• Golden Temple Villa, Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap: 9.5/10 on Booking.com (1,077 reviews). 23-room Siem Reap boutique hotel with pool and open-air bath, 9km from Angkor Wat.

• One Residence Hotel & Apartment, BKK1 / Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh: 9.2/10 on Booking.com. Aparthotel on Preah Norodom Blvd with rooftop pool and terrace, near AEON Mall.

Getting there and around

• Phnom Penh's new Techo International Airport sits south of the city, so allow extra time for the ride into town. Siem Reap's airport is about 40 to 50 kilometers from town, roughly an hour by shuttle bus or taxi.

• Phnom Penh to Siem Reap is a short flight, or five to six hours by bus.

• In both cities tuk-tuks are the main way around. Grab and PassApp book them and cars.

What to eat

• Fish amok: steamed curry in banana leaf, the national dish.

• Lok lak: stir fried beef with a lime and pepper dipping sauce.

• Bai sach chrouk: pork and rice, the classic street breakfast.

• Nom banh chok: Khmer rice noodles with green fish curry from morning stalls.

• Kuy teav and num pang: breakfast noodle soup and a Cambodian baguette sandwich.

What to drink

• Beer: Angkor and Cambodia are the common lagers, cheap and cold after a temple day. Beer gardens around Siem Reap are the place to drink them.

• Coffee: iced coffee with condensed milk is the local style, and both cities have strong specialty cafes.

• Juices: fresh sugarcane juice and cold coconuts are everywhere, and they are the best heat relief.

• Spirits: rice wine and palm wine are the local drinks in the countryside, sold at roadside stalls.

• Cocktails: Siem Reap has plenty of bars around Pub Street and nearby alleys, with creative cocktails and happy hours.

Day trips and side trips

• Tonle Sap floating villages, such as Kampong Phluk, from Siem Reap.

• Banteay Srei and the grand circuit for pink sandstone carvings.

• Kulen Mountain and Beng Mealea, a jungle temple.

• Kampot pepper farms and the Kep crab market on the south coast.

Festivals and events

• Khmer New Year: nationwide, usually in mid April. Water fights, games and temple visits over three days.

• Pchum Ben: nationwide, usually in September or October. A religious festival to honor ancestors.

• Bon Om Touk (Water Festival): Phnom Penh, usually in November. Boat races on the river and large crowds.

• Angkor Wat International Half Marathon: Siem Reap, usually in December. Run among the temples at sunrise.

• Royal Ploughing Ceremony: usually in May. A royal ritual that predicts the harvest.

• Meak Bochea: nationwide, usually in February. A Buddhist full moon festival with candlelit processions.

• Angkor Sankranta: Siem Reap, usually in April. Performances and games around the temples.

Music and dance

• Apsara dance: classical Khmer dance shows run in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, often with dinner.

• Dancing out: Pub Street in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh rooftop bars and clubs are where people go dancing.

• Traditional Khmer: pinpeat orchestras and Apsara dance, performed at dinner shows in Siem Reap and at the Royal Palace.

• Khmer rock: the 1960s sound of Sinn Sisamouth and Ros Serey Sothea, which many local bars still play.

• Live: Pub Street in Siem Reap for bars and DJs, Phare circus for live music, and rooftop bars in Phnom Penh. Electronic events are mostly club nights, not big festivals.

Don't miss

• Angkor Wat at sunrise, then Bayon and Ta Prohm.

• The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh.

• Tuol Sleng and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, heavy but essential.

• Phare, the Cambodian Circus, in Siem Reap.

• A sunset cruise on the Mekong and Tonle Sap.

• Angkor by bicycle or e-bike on the quieter outer roads.

Photography spots

• Angkor Wat: sunrise reflection from the north pond is the classic and crowded shot. The west gate at golden hour is often better light.

• Ta Prohm: tree roots over the ruins in soft morning light.

• Bayon: the stone faces at sunrise or late afternoon.

• Phnom Penh: Royal Palace roofs at golden hour and the Riverside at dusk.

• Drones: banned at Angkor without special permission, and Cambodia generally requires authorization. Check current rules.

My experience

Angkor lived up to its reputation, and the heat and crowds were worth it for the early mornings. Phnom Penh surprised me with its mix of modern cafes and heavy history. New Year's Eve there was fun and easy. I would recommend it to first time visitors to Southeast Asia, and to photographers.

Cost of living

• Overall: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap: $, about 60% cheaper than New York. Siem Reap tourist streets run higher.

• Coffee: about $2

• Local lunch: about $4

• Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $30

• Beer or cocktail: about $1 / $4

• Ride across town: about $2

• Mid-range hotel: about $40 a night

• Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $450 a month in Phnom Penh's BKK1, $400 in Siem Reap

• Daily budget: about $30 budget, $70 comfortable, $150+ luxury

Cambodia is cheap and the US dollar is used everywhere, which keeps it simple. The big spending is Angkor entry and good hotels in Siem Reap, while food and tuk-tuks are very reasonable. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Usually fine in hotels and cafes at 20 to 100 Mbps, with Phnom Penh and Siem Reap the most reliable. Power cuts happen occasionally outside cities.

• Coworking and cafes: Phnom Penh has the best coworking, including Emerald Hub, and cafes in BKK1. Siem Reap is smaller and more touristy, and Kampot is a calm riverside option.

• Time zone: UTC+7, 12 hours ahead of US Eastern (11 hours during daylight saving).

• Visa for longer stays: US citizens need a visa, available as an eVisa or on arrival for 30 days and extendable. Cambodia has no dedicated digital nomad visa, but an extended ordinary visa is easy to arrange. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 3 out of 5. Cheap, friendly and easy with dollars, with a modest nomad scene compared with Thailand or Vietnam.

Good to know

• Language: Khmer. English is common in hotels, restaurants and with tuk-tuk drivers in both cities.

• Currency: US dollars are used everywhere alongside the Cambodian riel. ATMs give dollars, and change under a dollar comes back in riel. Bring clean, untorn bills.

• Plugs: Mixed Type A, C and G, 230V. US plugs often fit, but check your device voltage.

• Entry for US citizens: An e-visa online or visa on arrival, plus the online arrival card. Check current rules.

• Best time to visit: November to February is cool and dry. Late December to early January is peak season at Angkor.

• Getting around: Tuk-tuks, Grab and PassApp.

• SIM/eSIM: Smart and Cellcard SIMs are cheap at the airport, or use an eSIM.

• Apps: Grab and PassApp for rides, and Grab and Foodpanda for delivery.

• Water: Do not drink the tap water. Use bottled water.

• Tipping: Not mandatory but appreciated. A few dollars for tuk-tuk drivers and spa staff, and more for a full day Angkor driver or guide.

Useful phrases

• Hello: Suostei

• Thank you: Aw kun

• Please: Som

• How much?: Tlay pon man?

• The check, please: Som kut luy

Nightlife

Cambodian nightlife is casual and easy, built around street side bars, rooftops and cheap beer. It is loud in the tourist centers and calm everywhere else.

• When people go out: Evenings start around 7 or 8, and Siem Reap bars run until 1 or 2. Phnom Penh runs later. Friday and Saturday are the big nights, and Khmer New Year in April is the biggest party.

• Where the action is: In Siem Reap, Pub Street and the Alley. In Phnom Penh, the riverside near Sisowath Quay, rooftop bars and the BKK1 area.

• The music: Pop and EDM on Pub Street, with chill house and lounge on the rooftops. Apsara dance shows are a quieter evening option.

• Good to know: Covers are rare, beer is very cheap and cocktails are moderate. Dress is casual. Use PassApp, Grab or a tuk tuk with an agreed price, and keep your phone and bag close, since bag snatching from motorbikes happens.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Phnom Penh and Siem Reap both have a friendly traveler scene, with hostels, rooftop bars and coworking spaces. Locals are warm and soft spoken. Many visitors meet through tours, volunteer groups and cooking classes.

• Apps: Facebook groups and WhatsApp or Telegram groups for expats are the main tools. Tinder and Bumble work in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. Hostel events are the easiest way to meet people.

• Etiquette: The traditional greeting is the sompiah, palms pressed together and a slight bow. Dress modestly at temples and avoid raising your voice. Plans are relaxed. Hosts often pay, so offer to get the next round.

• Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink and agree on tuk tuk prices before you go. Keep bags on the side away from the road.

Staying safe

• Dress modestly at temples, with shoulders and knees covered, especially for the upper level of Angkor Wat.

• At night in Phnom Penh, bag snatching from motorbikes happens, so wear your bag on the inside away from the road.

• Stay on marked paths in rural areas because of old landmines.

• Drink bottled water and start Angkor days early to avoid the midday heat.