Croatia
Croatia has a long Adriatic coast, old stone towns and warm water well into autumn. I spent the whole month of September 2022 based in Split. It was a long slow stay with day trips into Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina.
What I did
Based in Split for about a month in September 2022.
Used Split as a launch point for day trips to Montenegro and to Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Enjoyed the shoulder season, with softer light and thinner crowds than summer.
Visited the Eye of the Earth (Izvor Cetine), the source of the Cetina River, where I took the drone photo at the top of this post.
Where to stay
Diocletian's Palace: the old town of Split, right on the Riva waterfront. Atmospheric but busy and loud in summer.
Varoš: west of the palace, under Marjan hill, quieter and local.
Bačvice: east of the center, near the city beach.
Dubrovnik, Hvar or Zadar: good bases if you want to move along the coast.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Unknown: 4.88 on Airbnb (85 reviews). Elegant one-bedroom with sea view in the center of Hvar town.
Getting there and around
Split airport (SPU) is near Trogir, about 25 to 40 minutes from the city. A shuttle bus runs to the bus station by the ferry port, or use Uber or Bolt.
Buses run the coast between Split, Makarska and Dubrovnik. Jadrolinija and other catamarans connect Split to Hvar, Brač, Vis and Korčula.
Renting a car is the most flexible way to do border day trips. Tell the rental company you are crossing borders.
What to eat
Peka: meat or octopus slow cooked under an iron bell. Order ahead at a konoba.
Black risotto: cuttlefish ink risotto at a Dalmatian seafood spot.
Pašticada: Dalmatian braised beef with gnocchi.
Grilled fish and buzara: mussels or shrimp in wine and garlic.
Pršut and Pag cheese: cured ham and sheep cheese.
What to drink
Wine: Croatia has excellent wine. Plavac Mali is the bold Dalmatian red, with the Pelješac peninsula and Dingač famous for it. Pošip is the crisp white from Korčula. Istria is known for Malvazija. Pelješac is an easy day trip from Dubrovnik, and Hvar and the Kaštela area are close to Split.
Gemišt and bevanda: wine mixed with sparkling or still water, the normal way to drink with lunch in summer.
Rakija: the local brandy, with travarica (herbal) and plum or grape versions. Often offered after dinner.
Maraschino: a cherry liqueur from Zadar.
Beer: Karlovačko and Ožujsko are the lagers, and craft beer is common in Split.
Coffee: a long cafe sit on the Riva is part of daily life. Order a kava and stay as long as you like.
Day trips and side trips
Montenegro's Kotor Bay area, which I visited as a day trip.
Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina, also a day trip.
Krka National Park for waterfalls.
Trogir, a UNESCO old town near the airport.
Blue Cave and Vis, or Hvar and the Pakleni islands, by boat.
Festivals and events
Feast of St. Domnius: Split, May 7. The city's patron saint day, with processions and events.
Split Summer Festival: Split, usually from July to August. Opera, theater and concerts in the palace.
Ultra Europe: Split, usually in July. Huge electronic music festival at Poljud stadium, with island parties after.
Dubrovnik Summer Festival: Dubrovnik, usually from mid July to late August. Performances in historic squares and fortresses.
Sinjska Alka: Sinj, usually in August. A knight tournament that goes back centuries.
Rijeka Carnival: Rijeka, usually in January and February. The biggest carnival in the country.
Hideout Festival: Novalja, Zrće Beach, usually in June. House and techno on the beach.
Sonus Festival: Novalja, Zrće Beach, usually in August. Electronic acts across the beach clubs.
Outlook Festival: Pula, usually in September. Bass, reggae and dubstep in a fortress.
Dimensions Festival: Pula, usually in September. Electronic and experimental in the same fort and beach settings.
Love International: Tisno, usually in July. A house and disco festival.
INmusic Festival: Zagreb, usually in June. A large rock and indie festival.
Motovun Film Festival: Motovun, usually in July. A small hilltop film festival.
Advent in Zagreb: usually from late November to early January. Often named among the best Christmas markets in Europe.
Music and dance
Kolo: the traditional circle dance, seen at folk festivals, especially in Slavonia.
Dancing out: beach clubs on Zrće and Hvar in summer are where people go dancing.
Klapa: Dalmatian a cappella singing, often heard in the Peristyle of Diocletian's Palace on summer evenings.
Tamburica: string folk music from Slavonia and the north.
Electronic: Croatia has one of the biggest summer electronic scenes in Europe, with clubs and beach parties on Zrće and Hvar.
Live: Split's Riva and the old town have buskers and concerts in summer.
Don't miss
The Eye of the Earth (Izvor Cetine): a near-perfect circle of turquoise spring water more than 150 meters deep, near Vrlika and about 1.5 hours from Split. It is one of the most photogenic spots in Croatia, especially from above. The water stays around 8°C all year, and swimming is restricted to protect the spring, so check the signs before going in.
Diocletian's Palace and the cathedral bell tower climb.
A sunset hike up Marjan hill.
Dubrovnik's city walls at opening time.
Plitvice Lakes National Park.
The Blue Cave and Five Islands boat tour.
Bačvice beach and a game of picigin.
Photography spots
Split: the Riva and the palace at blue hour, and Marjan hill for the old town and islands at sunset.
Dubrovnik: the walls at opening time, and Srđ hill at sunset.
Hvar: the fortress at sunset over the Pakleni islands.
September light: softer, with thinner crowds.
Drones: EU rules apply, and many old towns and national parks restrict flying. Check current rules.
My experience
A month in Split gave me time to settle in rather than rush. September was the sweet spot, with warm water and fewer people. Having a base made border day trips easy and let me see how the coast changes. I would recommend Croatia in the shoulder season to anyone who likes sea, old towns and good seafood.
Cost of living
Overall: Split and Zagreb: $$$, about 10% cheaper than New York. Dubrovnik runs higher.
Coffee: about $3
Local lunch: about $12
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $85
Beer or cocktail: about $4 / $10
Ride across town: about $8
Mid-range hotel: about $130 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,100 a month in Split, $900 in Zagreb
Daily budget: about $70 budget, $140 comfortable, $300+ luxury in Split, a bit less in Zagreb
Croatia is mid-priced for Europe, and the coast is more expensive in July and August than in September. Split is cheaper than Dubrovnik, and eating at konobas away from the waterfront saves a lot. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Typically 30 to 150 Mbps in Split and Zagreb, generally reliable. Islands can be patchier.
Coworking and cafes: Split has the biggest coastal nomad scene, with coworking and cafes by Bacvice. Zagreb has the most coworking and lower costs, and Zadar is a calmer option.
Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (the gap shifts briefly with daylight saving).
Visa for longer stays: Croatia is in the Schengen Area, so US citizens get 90 days in any 180 across Schengen countries. Croatia has a Digital Nomad Residence Permit for up to a year. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 4 out of 5. Beautiful, safe, good internet and a growing community, with higher costs in high season.
Good to know
Language: Croatian. English is widely spoken on the coast.
Currency: The euro, which Croatia adopted in January 2023. In 2022 it was still the kuna. Cards work widely, but carry a little cash.
Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: Croatia is in Schengen, so it counts toward your 90 days in 180. Check current rules.
Best time to visit: May, June and September. July and August are packed on the coast, especially in Split, Hvar and Dubrovnik.
Getting around: Uber and Bolt work in Split, Dubrovnik and Zagreb. Buses and ferries cover the coast.
SIM/eSIM: Hrvatski Telekom, A1 and Telemach. An EU eSIM covers you, and EU roaming applies.
Apps: Wolt and Glovo for delivery.
Water: Tap water is safe to drink.
Tipping: Not mandatory. About 10 percent at restaurants for good service, and round up for cafes and taxis. Card terminals often have no tip line, so leave cash.
Useful phrases
Hello: Bok (casual) or Dobar dan (formal)
Thank you: Hvala
Please: Molim
How much?: Koliko košta?
The check, please: Račun, molim
Nightlife
Croatia's nightlife splits in two. Cities and old towns are about wine, cocktails and long evenings outside, while the islands and a few beach strips turn into summer party zones. I was there in September, which was relaxed and much quieter than peak summer.
When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9, bars fill by 11, and clubs run from about 1 until 4 or 5. Friday and Saturday are the big nights, and July and August are peak.
Where the action is: In Split, the Riva and old town, plus Bačvice beach. Hvar town and Zrće beach near Novalja are the big party spots, and Dubrovnik is quieter.
The music: House, EDM and pop at beach clubs, and Croatian pop and live acoustic music in old town bars.
Must-visit: Zrće beach on Pag is the biggest party strip on the coast, with beach clubs that run from the afternoon into the night. Plan it for July or August.
Good to know: Cover is modest at clubs, and beach clubs can be pricey in peak season. Drinks are cheaper on the mainland than on the islands. Dress is smart casual in town and swimwear by day at beach clubs. Take a licensed taxi or ride app back, and watch your drink at crowded beach clubs.
Meeting people
Social scene: Split, Zagreb and Dubrovnik all have a good social scene. Split has coworking spaces, beach bars and a busy summer crowd. Zagreb has a strong cafe culture. Locals are friendly and often speak English well.
Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are common. Meetup, Facebook groups and WhatsApp groups for nomads are active in Split and Zagreb, and hostels run social events.
Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and friends may kiss on both cheeks. Coffee is a slow, social ritual. Be on time for formal plans. Bills are often split, and you pay at the table.
Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink and compare prices before sitting down at bars in busy summer tourist areas.
Staying safe
Croatia is very safe. The main risks are sunburn and summer crowds.
Bring water shoes, since sea urchins are common on rocky beaches.
Drink water and avoid midday sun on hot days.