France
France has been two very different trips for me. My one time in Paris was in March 2020, right as COVID shut the world down. Then the French Riviera, with its blue water, pastel facades and long summer evenings: about eleven days from late June to early July 2024, based in Nice with three nights in Cannes and a day trip to Monaco.
What I did
Had dinner in Paris with views of the Eiffel Tower.
Was in Paris in March 2020 when COVID hit and flights were cancelled, and had to make it out on an emergency flight from Amsterdam.
Based in Nice for most of the Riviera trip.
Spent three nights in Cannes, a block off the Croisette.
Walked out to Port Pierre Canto at the east end of the Croisette to see the yachts.
Took a day trip from Nice to Monaco.
Where to stay
Vieux Nice: the old town, with the Cours Saleya market and plenty of restaurants.
Near the Promenade des Anglais, Nice: walkable to the beach and close to the tram.
Central Cannes: I stayed in an Airbnb near the Palais des Festivals. It is close to the old port, Le Suquet and the Forville market.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Centre, Cannes: 4.89 on Airbnb (27 reviews). Four-bedroom harbor-view apartment facing the Old Port of Cannes.
Getting there and around
Nice airport: tram line 2 runs to the center in about 25 to 30 minutes.
Nice to Cannes: the regional train along the coast, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Nice to Monaco: the regional train, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Paris airport: the RER B train runs into the city.
What to eat
Salade nicoise and pan bagnat.
Socca, the chickpea pancake, in Vieux Nice.
Pissaladiere.
Seafood at the old port in Cannes.
What to drink
Wine: Provencal rosé is the default summer drink along the coast, crisp and pale. The Bellet appellation sits in the hills right above Nice, and the Côtes de Provence vineyards are a short trip inland.
Wine: the monks on Île Saint-Honorat, one of the Lérins Islands off Cannes, make wine on the island, so a boat trip can double as a tasting.
Cocktails: a Kir, or a spritz on a terrace at golden hour.
Spirits: pastis, the anise aperitif, served with a jug of water and ice.
Beer: a cold demi (half pint) on a terrace in Vieux Nice.
Coffee: a café crème in the morning and an espresso after lunch.
Don't miss
Castle Hill in Nice at sunset.
Cours Saleya market in the morning.
The Matisse and Chagall museums in Cimiez.
Le Suquet in Cannes for the view over the bay.
A walk along the Croisette to the Palais steps.
Day trips and side trips
Monaco by train from Nice.
Eze village and the walk down to the sea.
Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence.
A boat to the Lerins Islands from Cannes.
Festivals and events
Cannes Film Festival: Cannes, usually in May. The Croisette fills with red carpets and yachts.
Monaco Grand Prix: Monaco, usually in May. An easy train ride from Nice.
Nice Carnival: Nice, usually in February. Parades and flower battles.
Fête du Citron: Menton, usually in February and March. Giant sculptures made of lemons and oranges.
Fête de la Musique: across France, June 21. Free concerts on every street corner.
Nice Jazz Festival and Jazz à Juan: Nice and Juan-les-Pins, usually in July. Outdoor jazz by the sea.
Festival d'Avignon: Avignon, usually in July. A major theater festival.
Nuits Sonores: Lyon, usually in May. A top electronic music festival across the city.
Marsatac: Marseille, usually in summer. Electronic and hip hop, a short train from Nice.
Tomorrowland Winter: Alpe d'Huez, usually in March. The Belgian giant takes over a ski resort.
Rock en Seine and Solidays: Paris, usually in August and June. Big city music festivals.
Hellfest: Clisson, usually in June. One of the biggest metal festivals in Europe.
Bastille Day: across France, July 14. Fireworks over the bay.
Music and dance
Chanson and pop: French songs are the soundtrack of the cafes. Paris is the place for classic venues.
Jazz: the Riviera has a long jazz tradition, and Juan-les-Pins is its home. Nice has live jazz in bars through the summer.
Electronic: France is a global house and techno power, and beach clubs in Cannes and Nice run DJ nights all summer.
Dancing: Paris has guinguettes along the Seine and canal where people dance to swing, tango and salsa. The Riviera has beach clubs and late bars in Nice and Cannes for a night out.
Photography spots
Castle Hill, Nice: golden hour over the bay.
Le Suquet, Cannes: sunset looking back at the Croisette.
Eze: sunrise, with sea views down the coast.
Villefranche-sur-Mer: the harbor in late afternoon light.
Drones: France has strict rules and most of the Riviera coast is restricted.
My experience
Paris will always be tied to that strange week in March 2020: a dinner with the Eiffel Tower lit up in front of me, then a scramble to get home as every flight disappeared. I still want to go back and see it properly. The Riviera is polished and easy, and the trains make it simple to base in one place. Nice felt lived in and real, Cannes felt glossy. I would recommend it to anyone who wants sea, good food and short hops by rail. The wine and the drinks were a highlight, especially the rosé at golden hour.
Cost of living
Overall: Nice and Paris: $$$$, about 10% cheaper than New York. Paris runs higher in rent, and Lyon or Montpellier are cheaper.
Coffee: about $3.50
Local lunch: about $18
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $120
Beer or cocktail: about $7 / $15
Ride across town: about $15
Mid-range hotel: about $220 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,800 a month in central Nice, $2,400 in Paris's Le Marais
Daily budget: about $100 budget, $220 comfortable, $450+ luxury in Nice, around 15% more in Paris
The Riviera is pricey in summer, especially in Cannes. Nice is better value than its neighbors, and bakery lunches and market food keep costs down. Paris costs more again. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Generally good, often 50 to 300 Mbps in apartments and hotels. Older buildings can be patchy, so check the speed before booking a longer stay.
Coworking and cafes: Nice is the favorite for sun and a relaxed pace, with laptop friendly cafes around the old town and Libération. Paris has the biggest scene, including Station F for startups. Lyon and Montpellier are good lower cost options.
Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (5 hours for a couple of weeks around the daylight saving changes).
Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days in any 180 across the Schengen Area. There is no dedicated digital nomad visa, though long-stay visitor and Talent Passport visas exist. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 3 out of 5. Great lifestyle, location and internet, but high prices and paperwork for longer stays.
Good to know
Language: French. English is common in tourist areas on the Riviera, less so in smaller places. Always open with Bonjour.
Currency: Euro. Cards and Apple Pay work almost everywhere.
Plugs: Type C and E, 230V. You need an adapter.
Entry for US citizens: France is in Schengen and US citizens can visit visa-free for short stays. Check current rules.
Best time to visit: May, June and September. July and August are hot and crowded, and the Cannes Film Festival in May fills every hotel.
Getting around: Regional trains run along the coast. Taxis and Uber work in Nice and Cannes.
Apps: Uber, Bolt and G7 for rides. Uber Eats and Deliveroo for food.
SIM/eSIM: An eSIM from Airalo or Holafly is easy. Local prepaid is available from Orange, SFR, Bouygues and Free.
Water: Tap water is safe to drink.
Tipping: Service is included by law. Round up or leave a few euros for good service.
Useful phrases
Hello: Bonjour (Bonsoir in the evening)
Thank you: Merci
Please: S'il vous plait
How much?: C'est combien?
The check, please: L'addition, s'il vous plait
Nightlife
French nights are unhurried. A long dinner comes first, then drinks, and clubs only wake up after midnight. On the Riviera the scene leans glossy, with beach clubs and hotel bars, while Paris and smaller cities lean toward wine bars and live music. Expect to dress better than you would in most US bars.
When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9 pm, drinks follow, and clubs get going after midnight and run to 5 am. Weekends are the big nights, and summer on the coast is busy every night.
Where the action is: On the Riviera, Nice is the easy one, with bars and live music in Vieux Nice and relaxed drinks around the port. Cannes is glossier along the Croisette, and Monaco is the high end. In Paris, Pigalle and the Latin Quarter are the classic areas.
The music: House and electronic at the clubs, French pop and hip hop at the bars, and jazz in the cellars of Paris.
Good to know: Cocktails and club entry on the Riviera are expensive, and Cannes and Monaco clubs often have strict door policies. Dress smart, with no flip flops or sportswear. Watch your drink, and use licensed taxis or ride apps late at night.
Meeting people
Social scene: People in France appreciate a polite bonjour before any conversation, and effort with a little French goes a long way. On the Riviera, Nice is the easiest place to meet people, through beach sports, coworking spaces and language exchanges.
Apps: Meetup, Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are widely used, and expat Facebook groups and WhatsApp groups are common in Nice.
Etiquette: Greetings are a handshake or light cheek kisses among friends. Be on time for dinners, plans are often made a few days out, and splitting the bill is normal.
Stay smart: Meet in public places, watch your drink, and be careful with overpriced tourist bars on the Riviera. Check the menu before sitting down.
Staying safe
Pickpockets and phone snatchers work the Promenade des Anglais, Nice old town and the Nice to Monaco trains. Keep your phone in a front pocket.
Beaches are busy in summer. Do not leave bags unattended while you swim.
Use licensed taxis or a ride app, not unmarked cars.