Guatemala
Guatemala packs volcanoes, colonial towns and Mayan culture into a small country. I went in late April 2023 for six nights, spending a night in Guatemala City and the rest in Antigua, including an overnight volcano hike. I also spent four nights on Lake Atitlán in an A-frame cabin right on the water with volcano views, and it is a must do.
What I did
Arrived in Guatemala City and spent one night there.
Based in Antigua for the rest of the trip.
Hiked a volcano overnight, camping near the top and summiting before dawn with Fuego erupting next door.
Stayed four nights on Lake Atitlán in an A-frame cabin on the lake with volcano views, living off the land with a local farmer.
Walked Antigua's historic center and took in the rooftop views.
Stayed in a private room with a rooftop looking at the volcanoes.
Where to stay
Lake Atitlán: a must do. Stay on the water, ideally in a cabin with volcano views. I spent four nights in an A-frame cabin on the lake and it was one of the highlights of all my travels.
Antigua Centro: cobblestone streets, ruined churches and everything within walking distance. This is where most visitors should base.
Zona 10 and Zona 14, Guatemala City: the safer, modern areas for a night in the capital.
Zona 1, Guatemala City: the historic center, fine by day with normal caution. I stayed in a hotel here for my arrival night.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Centro, Antigua Guatemala: 4.69 on Airbnb (507 reviews). Casa Capirucho, Antigua: 360° rooftop terrace with city and volcano views.
In and Out Hotel - Adults Only, Zona 1, Guatemala City: 8.2/10 on Kayak (1,186 reviews). Adults-only hotel on 6a Avenida in Guatemala City's Zona 4/10 area.
Getting there and around
Airport to Antigua: it is about an hour by pre-booked shuttle or Uber, longer in traffic. Most travelers skip the capital and go straight there.
Within Antigua: everything in the center is walkable.
Elsewhere: shuttles connect Antigua with Lake Atitlan and other hubs. Volcano tours pick up in Antigua.
What to eat
Pepian, the national dish, a thick spiced stew with roasted seeds and chiles.
Kak'ik, a spicy turkey soup.
Tamales and chuchitos.
Shucos, Guatemala City's street hot dogs.
What to drink
Coffee: Antigua and Huehuetenango coffee is world class. Visit a farm near Antigua for a tour and a cup.
Spirits: Ron Zacapa, the smooth aged rum, is a source of national pride. Quetzalteca, a sugarcane spirit from Xela, is the local budget favorite.
Beer: Gallo is the national lager, and Cabro and Moza are good alternatives.
Cocktails: rum and Coke or a Cuba libre made with Zacapa, and a michelada with local beer.
Non-alcoholic: agua de jamaica (hibiscus), licuados of fresh fruit, and atol de elote, a warm corn drink.
Don't miss
An overnight Acatenango hike for sunrise and Fuego eruptions.
Antigua's colonial center and Santa Catalina Arch.
Cerro de la Cruz for the view over town.
A coffee farm tour near Antigua.
Semana Santa in Antigua, the week before Easter.
Day trips and side trips
Lake Atitlan, 2 to 3 hours from Antigua.
Pacaya Volcano half-day hike.
Tikal at sunrise, a short flight from the capital to Flores.
Chichicastenango market on Thursdays and Sundays.
Semuc Champey pools.
Festivals and events
Semana Santa: Antigua, usually in March or April. Street carpets of colored sawdust and flowers, and huge processions.
Giant Kite Festival: Sumpango and Santiago Sacatepéquez, November 1. Enormous kites flown in cemeteries for the Day of the Dead.
Todos Santos Horse Race: Todos Santos Cuchumatán, November 1. A wild, traditional festival.
Rabin Ajau: Cobán, usually in late July. The national folklore festival, with indigenous dress and dance.
Fiesta of Santo Tomás: Chichicastenango, usually in December. Dances and fireworks around the market town.
Quema del Diablo: across Guatemala, December 7. Bonfires to burn the devil before the Immaculate Conception.
Independence Day: across Guatemala, September 15. Torch runs and school parades.
Music and dance
Marimba: the national instrument, played at festivals, restaurants and plazas.
Latin pop and reggaeton: the soundtrack of bars and buses in Antigua and Guatemala City.
Rock and live bars: Antigua has small live music bars and rooftop DJ sets, and Zona 4 in the capital is the nightlife district.
Dance: Latin dance classes (salsa and bachata) are easy to find in Antigua, and indigenous folk dances like the Baile de la Conquista show up at festivals.
Photography spots
Acatenango: Fuego erupting at night from base camp, then sunrise from the summit. Bring a tripod and warm layers.
Antigua: Santa Catalina Arch with Volcan de Agua behind, at sunrise.
Cerro de la Cruz: golden hour.
Drones: registration is required and many towns and parks restrict flights.
My experience
Guatemala felt intense and rewarding. Standing on a summit before dawn with a volcano erupting nearby is something I will not forget. So are the four slow days on Lake Atitlán, waking up in an A-frame cabin to volcano views and living off the land with a local farmer. I would recommend it to travelers who like hiking and culture, and who are comfortable using shuttles and tour operators.
Cost of living
Overall: Antigua and Lake Atitlán: $$, about 50% cheaper than New York. Guatemala City is cheaper for rent but less appealing for a stay.
Coffee: about $2.50
Local lunch: about $6
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $45
Beer or cocktail: about $2.50 / $7
Ride across town: about $5
Mid-range hotel: about $75 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $700 a month in Antigua, $600 in Panajachel or San Marcos on Lake Atitlán
Daily budget: about $45 budget, $100 comfortable, $250+ luxury in Antigua, slightly less on the lake
Guatemala is excellent value, and Antigua is the priciest part of the country. Local comedores and markets are very cheap, while tours and volcano hikes are the main splurge. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Fine in Antigua, usually 20 to 100 Mbps, and slower around Lake Atitlán. Power cuts can happen, especially in rainy season, so a backup hotspot is smart.
Coworking and cafes: Antigua is the main nomad base, with plenty of laptop friendly cafes and a steady crowd. Lake Atitlán, especially San Marcos and Panajachel, has cafes and small coworking spots with a slower, creative feel. Quetzaltenango is a cheaper, less touristy option.
Time zone: UTC-6 all year, same as US Central. It is 1 hour behind US Eastern in winter and 2 hours behind in summer.
Visa for longer stays: US citizens can stay up to 90 days under the CA-4 agreement with El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua. There is no digital nomad visa. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 3 out of 5. Cheap, scenic and friendly, with a smaller nomad scene and less reliable power and internet.
Good to know
Language: Spanish, plus more than 20 Mayan languages. English is common in Antigua tourist businesses, much less so elsewhere.
Currency: Guatemalan quetzal. Cards work in Antigua restaurants and hotels. Carry quetzales for markets, tuk-tuks and small towns.
Plugs: Type A and B, 120V, the same as the US. No adapter needed.
Entry for US citizens: No visa for tourism. Guatemala is part of the CA-4 zone with El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua, which share one 90-day stay. Check current rules.
Best time to visit: The dry season, November to April. The rainy season is roughly May to October, mostly afternoon storms.
Getting around: Shuttles link the main hubs. Use Uber or arranged transport rather than street taxis.
Apps: Uber works in Guatemala City and Antigua. Uber Eats and PedidosYa deliver in the capital.
SIM/eSIM: Tigo and Claro are the local networks. A cheap SIM is easy at the airport, or use an eSIM for a short trip.
Water: Do not drink the tap water. Use bottled or filtered water.
Tipping: About 10 percent. Many restaurants add a suggested tip called propina sugerida, so check the bill. Tip volcano guides and porters.
Useful phrases
Hello: Hola or Buenas
Thank you: Gracias
Please: Por favor
How much?: Cuanto cuesta?
The check, please: La cuenta, por favor
Nightlife
Nightlife in Guatemala is small scale and easy. Antigua is a relaxed cobblestone town of rooftop terraces, mezcal bars and live music in colonial courtyards, while Guatemala City is where the clubs are. Compared with a US night out, it ends earlier and is much cheaper.
When people go out: In Antigua, bars start filling around 9 pm and many close around 1 am. Guatemala City goes later. Friday and Saturday are the big nights.
Where the action is: Antigua's bars and rooftops around the central park are where most travelers go. Guatemala City's Zona 10 is the upscale bar and club area, and Lake Atitlán is quiet, with a few backpacker bars in San Pedro.
The music: Live acoustic and cover bands, reggaeton, salsa and cumbia, and some electronic in the capital.
Good to know: Drinks are cheap compared with the US and covers are rare in Antigua. Dress is casual, and bring a warm layer because Antigua and the lake cool off at night. Take a taxi or a ride arranged by your hotel after dark, especially in Guatemala City.
Meeting people
Social scene: Antigua has the easiest social scene, with hostels, Spanish schools, volcano hikes and coffee shop language exchanges. Lake Atitlán, especially San Pedro and San Marcos, draws a long stay traveler crowd.
Apps: Bumble, Tinder and Facebook groups are used, and WhatsApp groups are common among travelers and Spanish school students.
Etiquette: A handshake and a polite buenos dias are the norm. Plans are relaxed and start times are flexible, and splitting the bill is normal among travelers.
Stay smart: Meet in public places, watch your drink, and use hotel arranged or app based rides at night instead of walking alone after dark.
Staying safe
Guatemala City needs more care than Antigua. Stick to Zona 10 and Zona 14 at night, and use Uber or arranged transport, not street taxis or chicken buses.
Do volcano hikes with an established operator, and check the weather.
Keep valuables out of sight and carry only what you need.