Peru

Written By Alex Hall

Peru gave me some of the biggest landscapes of any trip. I spent about three weeks there from May to June 2024, split between Lima, Cusco and the surrounding mountains. May is the start of the dry season in the Andes, which is the best time for Machu Picchu and the high hikes.

What I did

  • Based in Lima, in Barranco and Miraflores, for about a week at the start and four nights at the end.

  • Took a day tour from Lima to the Ballestas Islands and Huacachina, with sea lions, dune buggies and sandboarding.

  • Based in Cusco for eight nights in the historic center.

  • Hiked to Humantay Lake, a turquoise glacial lake at about 4,200 meters. It was the hardest hike of my life. Altitude is no joke.

  • Did the Rainbow Mountain tour to Vinicunca, at about 5,000 meters.

  • Visited Machu Picchu.

Where to stay

  • Barranco, Lima: Bohemian, with street art, colonial mansions and great restaurants.

  • Miraflores, Lima: More polished, with clifftop parks and Larcomar. I stayed in an Airbnb here, and another near the Malecon with an ocean view.

  • Cusco historic center: I stayed at the 7th Wonder Apart Hotel, walkable to the Plaza de Armas but quieter than the square.

  • San Blas, Cusco: The artsy quarter uphill, with cafes and rooftop views.

Where I stayed

Getting there and around

  • Lima airport is 45 to 90 minutes from Miraflores or Barranco depending on traffic. Uber picks up at the airport.

  • Cusco airport is only 10 to 15 minutes from the historic center.

  • Lima to Cusco is a short domestic flight, and the cheapest way to cover the distance.

  • Machu Picchu is reached by train from Ollantaytambo or Poroy to Aguas Calientes, then a bus up to the site.

What to eat

  • Ceviche: A lunch dish in Lima, best at a cevicheria.

  • Lomo saltado: Stir-fried beef with fries and rice.

  • Aji de gallina: Creamy chicken with yellow pepper sauce.

  • Chifa: Peruvian-Chinese food, found everywhere.

  • Coca tea: Helps with the altitude in Cusco.

What to drink

  • Cocktails: The pisco sour is the national cocktail, and I had plenty in Barranco, where a bar crawl is a good night out. Try the chilcano, a lighter pisco and ginger ale highball, as well.

  • Spirits: Pisco is a grape brandy from the Ica valley, near Huacachina. The distilleries there offer tastings, and you can combine it with the Ballestas Islands tour.

  • Wine: Peru makes wine near Ica and in the Colca area. Tacama is the oldest winery in the Americas, with tours outside Ica.

  • Beer: Cusquena, Cristal and Pilsen Callao are the common lagers, and craft breweries are growing in Lima and Cusco.

  • Coffee: Peruvian coffee from Cusco and the jungle is excellent. Try it at specialty cafes in Barranco and San Blas.

  • Soft drink: Inca Kola is bright yellow and sweet. Chicha morada is a purple corn drink, served cold and not alcoholic.

Don't miss

  • Machu Picchu. Go early for mist and soft light.

  • Humantay Lake and Rainbow Mountain, both best at first light before clouds roll in.

  • The Sacred Valley, including Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Moray.

  • Sacsayhuaman above Cusco at sunrise.

  • The Ballestas Islands and Huacachina on a day trip from Lima.

  • A tasting menu in Lima, booked months ahead.

Day trips and side trips

  • The Ballestas Islands and Huacachina from Lima.

  • Humantay Lake from Cusco.

  • Rainbow Mountain from Cusco.

  • The Sacred Valley and Ollantaytambo.

  • Machu Picchu, as a long day or an overnight in Aguas Calientes.

Festivals and events

  • Inti Raymi: Cusco, on June 24. The Inca sun festival, with a procession to Sacsayhuaman.

  • Qoyllur Rit'i: Ausangate, near Cusco, usually in late May or June. A pilgrimage to a glacier.

  • Fiestas Patrias: Nationwide, on July 28 and 29. Independence Day with parades.

  • Virgen de la Candelaria: Puno, usually in February. Dance and costumes on Lake Titicaca.

  • Vivo x el Rock: Lima, usually in autumn. A large rock and pop festival.

  • Senor de los Milagros: Lima, in October. A giant purple procession.

  • Semana Santa: Cusco, usually in March or April. Lord of the Earthquakes procession.

Music and dance

  • Andean music: Pan flutes and charango, heard at peñas in Cusco.

  • Musica criolla and vals peruano: Lima's traditional style. Barranco has peñas with live shows.

  • Cumbia and chicha: Peruvian cumbia is popular in clubs and at festivals.

  • Electronic and rock: Lima has a good club and live music scene in Barranco and Miraflores.

  • Dance: Marinera is the national dance, and you can see it and Andean dances at peñas in Lima and Cusco. Salsa and cumbia clubs in Barranco are good for dancing.

Photography spots

  • Machu Picchu: The upper terraces near the Guardhouse. Go early for mist, or the afternoon in dry season.

  • Humantay and Rainbow Mountain: Early light, with a polarizer for the turquoise lake.

  • Cusco: The Plaza de Armas at blue hour and San Blas rooftops at sunset.

  • Huacachina: Dunes at sunset for long shadows.

  • Drones: Banned at Machu Picchu and most archaeological sites without a permit. Check current drone rules.

My experience

Peru was a trip of contrasts: the gray, ocean-facing city of Lima, then the thin air and bright light of the Andes. Humantay Lake was a favorite and the hardest hike of my life, because the altitude is no joke, and Machu Picchu lived up to the hype. I took the first two days in Cusco slowly. I would recommend it to hikers and photographers, and to anyone willing to plan the altitude carefully.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Lima, Cusco and Arequipa: $$, about 55% cheaper than New York. Cusco runs a bit higher in tourist areas, and Arequipa is the cheapest.

  • Coffee: about $2.5

  • Local lunch: about $5

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $50

  • Beer or cocktail: about $3 / $6

  • Ride across town: about $3

  • Mid-range hotel: about $70 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $900 a month in Lima's Miraflores, $600 in Cusco, $500 in Arequipa

  • Daily budget: about $45 budget, $100 comfortable, $250+ luxury in Lima, a little less in Cusco

Peru is great value, and Lima's food is world class at every price. Machu Picchu, the train and tours are the big costs, so book early and budget for them. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Good in Lima, often 50 to 200 Mbps. Cusco is decent, but it gets unreliable in the mountains and near Machu Picchu.

  • Coworking and cafes: Best nomad cities are Lima for coworking and the strongest internet in Miraflores and Barranco, Cusco for culture and a smaller nomad scene, and Arequipa for lower costs and good weather.

  • Time zone: UTC-5 with no daylight saving, same as US Eastern in winter and 1 hour behind in summer.

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens usually get up to 183 days visa-free. There is no dedicated nomad visa. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 3.5 out of 5. Cheap and rich in food and culture, with decent internet in Lima and a modest nomad scene.

Good to know

  • Language: Spanish, and Quechua in the Andes. English is common in tourist areas, hotels and tours, and much less so elsewhere.

  • Currency: Peruvian sol. Cards work in Lima and Cusco restaurants, but carry soles for markets, taxis and small towns.

  • Plugs: Type A and C, 220V. US plugs often fit, but check that your chargers handle 220V.

  • Entry for US citizens: No visa for tourism. Immigration decides how many days you get. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: May to September is dry season in the Andes, and June to August is busiest. Lima is gray from roughly May to November and sunny from December to April.

  • Getting around: Uber and Cabify work in Lima, and Uber works in Cusco too.

  • Tipping: About 10 percent at restaurants if service is not included. Tip guides, drivers and porters on treks.

  • SIM/eSIM: Claro, Movistar, Entel and Bitel, or an eSIM. Coverage gets thin on treks.

  • Apps: Uber, Cabify, DiDi and InDrive for rides, and Rappi and PedidosYa for delivery.

  • Water: Do not drink the tap water. Use bottled or filtered water.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Hola

  • Please: Por favor

  • Thank you: Gracias

  • How much?: Cuanto cuesta?

  • The check, please: La cuenta, por favor

Nightlife

Peru goes out late, with a strong live music culture and pisco at the center of everything. Lima is polished and spread across districts, while Cusco is compact and social, with tourists and locals mixing around the main plaza. The altitude in Cusco makes drinks hit harder, so go easy for the first nights.

  • When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9 pm, bars fill after 10 pm, and clubs run from midnight to 4 am. Friday and Saturday are the big nights.

  • Where the action is: In Lima, Barranco is the best district for bars, live music and penas, and Miraflores has lounges and clubs near the coast. In Cusco, the center around the Plaza de Armas has bars and clubs open late.

  • The music: Reggaeton, salsa and cumbia in the clubs, with Afro-Peruvian and Andean live music in the penas.

  • Good to know: Covers are common at clubs, many bars run promotions, and pisco sours are the standard drink. Dress is smart casual, and clubs may ask for closed shoes. Use Uber or a registered taxi, and be careful with your drink and belongings in crowded bars.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Peruvians are warm and polite, and the traveler circuit makes it easy to meet people. Miraflores and Barranco in Lima, and hostels, tours and treks in Cusco, are the social hubs.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used in Lima. Meetup, Facebook groups and WhatsApp nomad groups are useful, and hostels and trek groups in Cusco are the easiest way to find company.

  • Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and a single cheek kiss is common among friends. Peruvian time is flexible, so social plans start later than stated. Splitting the bill is usual, and the host sometimes pays.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink, and use Uber or Cabify rather than hailing taxis on the street.

Staying safe

  • Altitude is the real risk in Cusco, at about 3,400 meters. Go slow for the first two days, hydrate, try coca tea, and plan the high hikes after you adjust.

  • Use ride apps instead of street taxis in Lima.

  • Miraflores and Barranco are easy to walk, but keep your phone out of sight on the street.

  • Bring layers, sun protection and a rain jacket on treks.

Alex Hall
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