Switzerland
Switzerland is expensive, beautiful and easy by train. I spent eight days here in late summer 2022, from Zurich to Lucerne, Lake Thun, Grindelwald and Lugano. It was my first real hike in the Alps.
What I did
Started in Zurich, then took the train to Lucerne.
Slept in a converted bunker in a villa above Lucerne, one of the more unusual stays of my trips.
Rode the scenic Lucerne to Brienz train over the Brünig Pass.
Based on Lake Thun in Spiez for a night, with mountain views from the apartment.
Hiked in the Alps around Grindelwald.
Finished in Lugano before crossing into Italy to Lake Como. I used a half-fare card for the trains.
Where to stay
Zurich, Wiedikon: residential and local, a short tram ride from the old town and Langstrasse.
Lucerne, Dattenberg: quiet hillside above the lake, with a short bus ride to the old town.
Spiez: a calm lakeside town on Lake Thun and a rail hub for the Bernese Oberland. It is quieter than Interlaken.
Grindelwald: the best base for hiking under the Eiger.
Central Lugano: close to the lakefront and Piazza della Riforma, with a very Italian feel.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Lugano: 4.95 on Airbnb (238 reviews). Charming room in an 1800s house in Lugano.
Airbnb in Lucerne: 4.93 on Airbnb (228 reviews). A tiny Swiss atomic-bomb bunker in an old villa near Lucerne. Quirky and memorable.
Airbnb in Spiez: 4.89 on Airbnb (645 reviews). Lakeside apartment four meters from the water, balcony with mountain views, direct lake access.
Airbnb in Wiedikon, Zurich: 4.9 on Airbnb (321 reviews). Sunny private room 10 minutes from downtown Zurich, near Langstrasse.
Getting there and around
Zurich airport: a train from the station under the terminal reaches Zürich HB in 10 to 15 minutes.
Between cities: trains are the way to go and run on time. A Swiss Travel Pass or Half Fare Card pays off quickly, and the SBB app sells tickets.
Mountain lifts: many are discounted with a Half Fare Card or the Swiss Travel Pass.
What to eat
Fondue and raclette, best in the mountains.
Rösti, the crispy Swiss potato cake.
Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, veal in cream sauce, in Zurich.
Älplermagronen, alpine mac and cheese.
Swiss chocolate, including Sprüngli truffles in Zurich.
Risotto in a grotto above Lugano.
What to drink
Wine: Swiss wine rarely leaves the country, so drink it here. The vineyards above Lake Thun, including the path by Spiez castle, are lovely at sunset. Ticino makes good merlot, and the Lavaux terraces above Lake Geneva and the Valais are the famous regions.
Spirits: kirsch, a cherry brandy, and Williamine, made from pears. Both are often served after a fondue.
Beer: Feldschlösschen and Cardinal are common, and small breweries are everywhere in the towns.
Soft drinks: Rivella, the Swiss soft drink made from milk whey. It tastes better than it sounds.
Coffee and chocolate: a Kaffee Crème in any cafe, and a thick hot chocolate in winter.
Don't miss
A hike from Grindelwald, such as First to Bachalpsee.
Chapel Bridge and the old town in Lucerne.
Mount Pilatus or Rigi by cogwheel train.
Lauterbrunnen valley and its waterfalls.
A boat trip on Lake Thun or Lake Lucerne.
Monte Brè above Lugano at sunset.
Day trips and side trips
Rhine Falls from Zurich.
Jungfraujoch from Grindelwald, on a clear day.
Lauterbrunnen and Mürren.
Oeschinensee from Kandersteg.
Morcote or Locarno from Lugano.
Festivals and events
Fasnacht: Basel, usually in February or March. Starts at 4am with lantern-lit parades.
Sechseläuten: Zurich, usually in April. A spring parade that ends with the burning of the Böögg snowman.
Montreux Jazz Festival: Montreux, usually in July. Concerts on the lakefront.
Street Parade: Zurich, usually in August. A huge techno parade along the lake.
Swiss National Day: countrywide, on August 1, with bonfires and fireworks.
Lucerne Festival: Lucerne, usually in August and September. Classical music at the lake.
Zurich Openair: Glattbrugg, usually in August. A major pop and rock festival.
Openair Frauenfeld: Frauenfeld, usually in July. Europe's big hip hop festival.
Paléo Festival: Nyon, usually in July. One of the biggest open air festivals in the country.
Gurten Festival: Bern, usually in July. A popular music festival on a hill above the city.
Zermatt Unplugged: Zermatt, usually in April. Acoustic concerts in the mountains.
Music and dance
Folk and alphorn: traditional yodeling and alphorn music, often at mountain festivals and village events.
Classical and jazz: Lucerne, Montreux and Zurich have world-class venues.
Electronic: Zurich's club scene is known for house and techno.
Pop and rock: small venues in cities like Bern and Basel host touring and local acts.
Dance: traditional folk dances show up at village and mountain festivals. For dancing, Zurich and Basel have the best clubs, and the Street Parade turns Zurich into a giant dance floor in August.
Photography spots
Bachalpsee near Grindelwald at sunrise, with the mountains reflected.
The Eiger north face at golden hour from Grindelwald.
Chapel Bridge in Lucerne at blue hour.
Spiez castle and harbor from the vineyard path at sunset.
Monte Brè above Lugano at sunset.
Drones: Swiss FOCA rules, with many restricted zones near airports, nature reserves and mountain areas.
My experience
Switzerland was where the trip got serious for me. Hiking above Grindelwald was my first real day in the Alps, and the trains made it easy to cover a lot of ground. I would recommend it to hikers and anyone who likes scenery, as long as you plan for the prices.
Cost of living
Overall: Zurich and Geneva: $$$$$, more expensive than New York. Lucerne and Lugano are slightly less, mountain resorts more.
Coffee: about $6
Local lunch: about $25
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $220
Beer or cocktail: about $9 / $18
Ride across town: about $30
Mid-range hotel: about $280 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $3,000 a month in Zurich's Kreis 4 or Wipkingen, $3,200 in Geneva's Plainpalais
Daily budget: about $200 budget, $350 comfortable, $700+ luxury in Zurich; Geneva is similar
Switzerland is the most expensive country I have visited. Supermarket food, rail passes and hiking-region lodging add up fast, so plan carefully and cook when you can. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Internet is fast and dependable, typically 100 to 1000 Mbps. Hotels and cafes are reliable, and power cuts almost never happen.
Coworking and cafes: Zurich is the main city, with cafes in Kreis 4 and Kreis 5 plus Impact Hub Zurich and Qwest. Geneva has Impact Hub and a diplomatic crowd. Lucerne and Lugano are scenic but have little for remote workers.
Time zone: UTC+1 (UTC+2 in summer), 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (5 hours during the brief weeks when daylight saving dates differ).
Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days visa-free in any 180 days within the Schengen Area. Switzerland has no digital nomad visa, and working locally is restricted. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 2 out of 5, safe and efficient, but costs make a long stay hard to justify.
Good to know
Language: German in Zurich, Lucerne and the Bernese Oberland, French in the west and Italian in Ticino. English is widely spoken.
Currency: Swiss franc. Cards and the TWINT app work everywhere. Prices are high.
Plugs: Type J, 230V. Europlugs fit, but thicker plugs do not, so bring a Swiss adapter.
Entry for US citizens: visa-free for short stays under Schengen rules. Switzerland is not in the EU. Check current rules before you fly.
Best time to visit: late June to September for hiking, and December to March for skiing.
Getting around: trains. Uber works in the main cities.
Tipping: service is included. Round up for good service.
SIM/eSIM: EU roaming plans often do not cover Switzerland, so get an eSIM that includes it, or a prepaid SIM from Swisscom, Sunrise or Salt.
Apps: SBB Mobile for trains, Uber in the cities, and Uber Eats and Just Eat for delivery.
Water: tap water is excellent and safe to drink, including from the village fountains.
Useful phrases
Hello: Grüezi in Swiss German, Bonjour in French, Buongiorno in Italian
Thank you: Merci or Danke
Please: Bitte
How much?: Wie viel kostet das?
The check please: Zahlen, bitte
Nightlife
Switzerland's nightlife is tidy, expensive and early compared with the rest of Europe. Zurich has a serious club and bar scene, while Lucerne and Lugano are more about lakeside drinks.
When people go out: Dinner is early, around 7. Bars fill from 9 and clubs open at midnight, running until 4 or 5. Friday and Saturday are the big nights, and most places are quiet midweek.
Where the action is: In Zurich, Langstrasse and Zurich West have clubs and bars, and the Niederdorf old town has pubs. Lucerne has lakeside bars, and Lugano has lakefront terraces with a more Italian rhythm. The Alps have apres-ski bars in winter.
The music: Techno and house in Zurich, with pop and live music elsewhere.
Must-visit: Zurich's Street Parade in August is a huge techno festival on the lake and worth planning a trip around.
Good to know: Expect high drink prices, covers at clubs and strict door policies at larger venues. Dress is smart casual and sneakers are fine in many places. Public transport runs less often after midnight, so check night bus and train times before heading out.
Meeting people
Social scene: Zurich and Lucerne are the best bases. The scene is more reserved than in southern Europe, but hiking groups, run clubs, lake swimming spots and coworking spaces make for easy introductions.
Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used. Meetup and Facebook groups for expats and hiking are the most reliable for finding friends.
Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and people are punctual. Plans are made ahead, often by WhatsApp. Splitting the bill is normal.
Stay smart: Meet in public and take licensed taxis or Uber. Swiss cities are very safe, but keep an eye on your drink and belongings at night near stations.
Staying safe
Very safe. The real risk is the mountains.
Weather changes fast, so carry layers and water and check conditions before you hike.
Supermarkets like Coop and Migros are a good way to keep food costs down.