Chile

Written By Alex Hall

Chile is long and thin, but Santiago is the easy way in. I spent eleven days there from late November to early December 2024, based in Las Condes. It was a calm, comfortable stay in late spring, with the Andes visible on clear days.

What I did

  • Based in Las Condes, the El Golf area nicknamed Sanhattan, in a house with a pool.

  • Explored Vitacura and Parque Bicentenario, with its lagoon and flamingos.

  • Spent time in Providencia and Santiago Centro.

  • Walked the design, gallery and restaurant strip on Alonso de Córdova in Vitacura.

  • Went to a wine festival and visited vineyards. The wine and drinks were amazing.

Where to stay

  • Las Condes (El Golf): clean, safe and walkable, next to Parque Araucano, with lots of restaurants on Isidora Goyenechea. I stayed in an Airbnb here.

  • Vitacura: the upscale side, with galleries and Parque Bicentenario.

  • Providencia: the most livable mixed neighborhood, between Las Condes and the center.

  • Lastarria and Barrio Italia: good if you want cafes and bars close to the center.

Where I stayed

Getting there and around

  • Santiago's airport (SCL) is in Pudahuel, 30 to 45 minutes from Las Condes. Uber pickups at the airport have been restricted at times, so use official taxis or Transvip shuttles if needed.

  • In the city, Uber, Cabify and DiDi work well, and the metro is clean and covers most areas.

  • Buses run to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar in about 1.5 hours. Domestic flights reach Atacama, Patagonia and Easter Island.

What to eat

  • Empanada de pino: baked with beef, onion, egg and olive.

  • Pastel de choclo: corn pie with beef and chicken.

  • Completo: the Chilean hot dog loaded with avocado, tomato and mayo.

  • Chorrillana: fries piled with beef, onion and egg, made to share.

  • Seafood: machas a la parmesana and caldillo de congrio, best at the Mercado Central.

What to drink

  • Wine: Chile is one of the great wine countries, and the wine was amazing. Carménère is the national grape, with excellent Cabernet Sauvignon too. Casablanca makes crisp whites and Maipo and Colchagua make big reds, all within a day trip of Santiago. I went to a wine festival and visited vineyards.

  • Pisco sour: pisco, lime, sugar and egg white, the national cocktail. Chile and Peru both claim it, so do not start that argument.

  • Terremoto: the earthquake, a sweet mix of pipeño wine and pineapple ice cream. Fun once, strong too.

  • Spirits: pisco on its own or as a piscola with cola. The Elqui Valley is where pisco comes from.

  • Beer: Kunstmann and Austral are the well known craft style brands, and the beer scene in Santiago is good.

  • Mote con huesillo: a sweet peach and wheat drink, a refreshing street classic.

Day trips and side trips

  • Valparaíso for street art, and Viña del Mar.

  • The Maipo, Casablanca or Colchagua wine valleys.

  • Cajón del Maipo and Embalse El Yeso for mountain scenery.

  • Valle Nevado or Portillo for skiing, from June to September.

Patagonia: still on my list

I only saw Santiago, so Chilean Patagonia is the big one I still need to do.

  • Torres del Paine: one of the most beautiful national parks on earth. The W Trek takes 4 to 5 days and ends at the granite towers at sunrise, and the full O Circuit takes 8 to 10. Refugios and campsites sell out months ahead, so book early.

  • Puerto Natales: the gateway town for Torres del Paine, with good restaurants and gear rental.

  • Punta Arenas: on the Strait of Magellan, with day trips to see king penguins.

  • Carretera Austral: a legendary road trip through fjords, glaciers and forest, including the Marble Caves on Lake General Carrera.

  • When to go: November to March. The wind is part of the experience.

  • Getting there: fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. You can combine it with El Calafate and El Chaltén on the Argentine side.

Festivals and events

  • Fiesta de la Vendimia: Colchagua and Santa Cruz, usually in March. Harvest celebrations with tastings and parades.

  • Fiestas Patrias: nationwide, usually around September 18. Fondas, empanadas, cueca dancing and plenty of chicha.

  • Festival de Viña del Mar: Viña del Mar, usually in February. A huge music festival and one of the biggest in Latin America.

  • New Year fireworks: Valparaíso, December 31. A famous show over the bay.

  • La Tirana: northern Chile, usually in July. Costumed dancers fill the desert town.

  • Lollapalooza Chile: Santiago, usually in March or April at Parque O'Higgins. A big international lineup.

  • Festival del Huaso de Olmué: Olmué, usually in January. A folk and country music festival.

  • Fiesta de la Candelaria: Copiapó region, usually in late January and early February. A major religious and folk festival.

Music and dance

  • Cueca: the national dance, danced with handkerchiefs. Fondas during Fiestas Patrias are the place to try it.

  • Dancing out: Bellavista in Santiago has salsa and reggaeton clubs.

  • Cueca: the national dance and song, heard everywhere during Fiestas Patrias.

  • Nueva Canción: the protest folk movement of Violeta Parra and Víctor Jara. La Chascona and Bellavista tell part of the story.

  • Rock, cumbia and reggaeton: Chilean rock and pop are big, and bars play cumbia and reggaeton all night.

  • Live: Bellavista has peñas and live music bars, and the Teatro Municipal and Teatro Caupolicán host bigger shows. Santiago also has a good techno club scene.

Don't miss

  • Cerro San Cristóbal by funicular for the view of the city and the Andes.

  • The Sky Costanera observation deck.

  • La Chascona, Pablo Neruda's house in Bellavista.

  • The Mercado Central and La Vega market.

  • A wine day in a nearby valley.

  • Barrio Lastarria for cafes and an evening walk.

Photography spots

  • Santiago and the Andes: from Cerro San Cristóbal or Cerro Santa Lucía at golden hour. Clear days after rain are best.

  • Sky Costanera: sunset into blue hour with the mountains behind.

  • Parque Bicentenario: the lagoon and flamingos on an easy morning shoot.

  • Las Condes: the towers at blue hour from Parque Araucano.

  • Drones: registration with the DGAC is required and much of Santiago is controlled airspace. Check current rules.

My experience

Santiago felt orderly, safe and easy to live in for eleven days. Las Condes was quiet and convenient, and the parks and views made up for the lack of sightseeing hype. The wine festival and the vineyards were a highlight, and the wine was some of the best I have had. I would like to come back for Valparaíso and more of the wine valleys. I would recommend it to anyone who wants a comfortable city base with the Andes on the horizon.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Santiago and Valparaíso: $$$, about 15% cheaper than New York. Patagonia runs much higher.

  • Coffee: about $3

  • Local lunch: about $10

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $80

  • Beer or cocktail: about $5 / $9

  • Ride across town: about $6

  • Mid-range hotel: about $110 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,000 a month in Santiago's Las Condes, $750 in Valparaíso

  • Daily budget: about $70 budget, $140 comfortable, $300+ luxury in Santiago

Chile is the most expensive country in mainland South America for visitors, though Santiago is manageable. Menu del dia lunches are the best value, and Las Condes costs more than neighborhoods like Providencia or Ñuñoa. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Excellent, often 100 to 500 Mbps on fiber in Santiago, and reliable in cafes and apartments. Remote regions are slower.

  • Coworking and cafes: Santiago has the best coworking and fastest internet, in Providencia and Las Condes. Valparaíso is creative and cheaper, and Viña del Mar is a calmer coastal base.

  • Time zone: UTC-4 in winter and UTC-3 in summer, roughly 0 to 2 hours ahead of US Eastern as daylight saving shifts on both sides.

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens can stay 90 days visa-free. Chile does not have a dedicated digital nomad visa, but a temporary residence for remote workers has been discussed. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 4 out of 5. Safe by regional standards, with fast internet and good infrastructure, held back mainly by cost.

Good to know

  • Language: Spanish, in a fast Chilean style with lots of slang. English is common in business areas and hotels, but less so elsewhere.

  • Currency: The Chilean peso. Cards and Apple Pay work almost everywhere in Santiago.

  • Plugs: Type C and L, 220V. Bring an adapter.

  • Entry for US citizens: No visa for tourism, usually for up to 90 days. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: Spring and fall (October to December, March to May) for Santiago. Summer is hot and dry, and peak season for Patagonia. Ski season is roughly June to September.

  • Getting around: Uber, Cabify and DiDi in Santiago, plus a clean metro.

  • SIM/eSIM: Entel, Movistar, Claro and WOM. An eSIM is easiest for a short stay.

  • Apps: Rappi, PedidosYa and Uber Eats for delivery.

  • Water: Tap water in Santiago is generally safe to drink.

  • Tipping: 10 percent is standard and usually suggested on the bill as propina. The server will ask if you want to include it.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Hola

  • Thank you: Gracias

  • Please: Por favor

  • How much?: ¿Cuánto cuesta?

  • The check, please: La cuenta, por favor

Nightlife

Chilean nightlife is centered on Santiago and runs late, with bars first and clubs after midnight. It is friendly and social, and drinks tend to be mixed and strong, with pisco the local staple.

  • When people go out: Dinner is around 9, bars fill by 11, and clubs run from about 1 to 5. Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the big nights, and many places close on Sunday.

  • Where the action is: In Santiago, Bellavista is the main district, Lastarria and Barrio Italia are quieter, and Providencia and Las Condes have upscale lounges.

  • The music: Reggaeton, pop, rock and electronic music, with some live music in the bars.

  • Good to know: Cover is common at clubs and often includes a drink, and drinks are moderate. Try a piscola. Dress is smart casual, dressier in Las Condes. Take a ride app home, and watch your phone in crowded Bellavista streets.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Santiago is the best base, with coworking spaces, run clubs and active expat groups in Providencia and Barrio Italia. Valparaiso is more bohemian and social. Chileans can be reserved at first but are friendly once you get talking.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used in Santiago. Meetup, Bumble BFF and Facebook nomad groups are active, and WhatsApp groups handle most hiking and language exchange events.

  • Etiquette: A single kiss on the cheek is common between friends, and a handshake for first meetings. Social plans run late. Bills are often split, and the tip is usually added on request.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink and keep your phone out of sight on busy streets and in the metro.

Staying safe

  • Las Condes, Vitacura and Providencia are very safe and easy.

  • Watch your phone and bag in Santiago Centro, around Plaza de Armas and Bellavista at night.

  • Earthquakes happen in Chile, so know the exits where you stay.

  • Wear sunscreen, since the sun at altitude is strong.

Alex Hall
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