Colombia

Written By Alex Hall

Colombia is where I have spent the most time outside Brazil, and Medellín is a city I keep coming back to. I first came in 2023 and have returned many times since, with more than 200 nights in El Poblado alone. It is warm, friendly and easy to work from, with mountains in every direction.

What I did

  • Lived in Medellín in El Poblado, Provenza and Manila, and El Poblado is where I keep returning.

  • Studied Spanish for two months at Valley Spanish School in Medellín.

  • Did a Comuna 13 graffiti tour with the Metrocable ride, and went back on my own.

  • Visited Pueblito Paisa on Cerro Nutibara and the flower country of Santa Elena.

  • Spent a weekend in Santa Fe de Antioquia, a colonial town northwest of the city.

  • Visited Cartagena in 2023 and sailed from there to Panama through the San Blas islands.

  • Took a salsa lesson and gave salsa dancing a real try.

  • Spent a night in Barranquilla, and passed through Bogotá and Cali.

Where to stay

  • El Poblado, Medellín: the upscale, green and hilly southeast, with most hotels, malls and restaurants. Safe by Medellín standards.

  • Provenza: the prettiest blocks of Poblado, with boutique shops, cafes and rooftop bars next to Parque Lleras. Loud on weekends. I stayed in an Airbnb here for a month on a high floor.

  • Manila: flatter, more local and cheaper than Provenza, with cafes, gyms and coworking. A good fit for remote workers.

  • Laureles: flat, leafy and local, with La 70 for bars.

  • Cartagena: the walled city and Getsemaní for atmosphere, or Zona Norte for beaches.

  • Barranquilla: Alto Prado, near the Malecón. I stayed at the Estelar Alto Prado.

Where I stayed

Getting there and around

  • Medellín's main airport (MDE) is in Rionegro, 45 to 60 minutes from El Poblado through the tunnel. Uber and white airport taxis with fixed rates both work. The smaller Olaya Herrera airport is inside the city.

  • Bogotá (BOG) is the big hub, and connecting from domestic to international means going through immigration, so allow at least two hours.

  • In Medellín, Uber and DiDi cover most trips. The Metro is clean and cheap and links to the Metrocable gondolas, including Line J to San Javier for Comuna 13. Domestic flights connect the major cities quickly.

What to eat

  • Bandeja paisa: beans, rice, ground beef, chicharrón, chorizo, egg, plantain, arepa and avocado on one plate.

  • Arepas: plain white paisa arepas with cheese in Medellín, and arepa de huevo on the Caribbean coast.

  • Ajiaco and sancocho: hearty soups, ajiaco in Bogotá and fish sancocho on the coast.

  • Fried fish and arroz con coco: the Caribbean coast plate, with patacones.

  • Empanadas and buñuelos: street snacks you will find everywhere.

What to drink

  • Coffee: tinto on every corner, and specialty coffee in Provenza and Manila. The coffee region around Salento is the place to visit a farm.

  • Juices: lulo, maracuyá, mora and guanábana, in water or milk. Lulada in Cali is a favorite.

  • Aguardiente: the anise spirit of the paisa party, drunk by the shot or by the bottle. Antioqueño is the Medellín brand.

  • Rum: Medellín and Caldas rums are good sipping, and rum with cola is the easy pick on the coast.

  • Beer: Club Colombia, Águila and Poker are the main lagers, and craft beer is growing, with 3 Cordilleras in Medellín.

  • Canelazo and hot chocolate: in cool Bogotá, try canelazo, a warm cinnamon and aguardiente drink, or hot chocolate with cheese.

Day trips and side trips

  • Guatapé and El Peñol rock, about two hours east of Medellín.

  • Santa Fe de Antioquia and the Puente de Occidente.

  • Parque Arví by Metrocable Line L.

  • Jardín and the coffee towns of the southwest.

  • The Rosario Islands and Barú from Cartagena.

Festivals and events

  • Feria de las Flores: Medellín, usually in August. The silleteros parade carries giant flower displays on their backs.

  • Carnaval de Barranquilla: Barranquilla, usually in February or March before Ash Wednesday. One of the biggest carnivals in the world.

  • Alumbrados: Medellín, usually from late November to January. The river and parks fill with Christmas lights.

  • Feria de Cali: Cali, usually in late December. Salsa shows and concerts.

  • Hay Festival: Cartagena, usually in late January. Books, music and conversation in the old city.

  • Estéreo Picnic: Bogotá, usually in March. The biggest music festival in the country, with rock, pop and electronic acts.

  • Rock al Parque: Bogotá, usually in autumn. A huge free rock festival.

  • Festival de la Leyenda Vallenata: Valledupar, usually in April. The national vallenato accordion competition.

  • Petronio Álvarez Festival: Cali, usually in August. Afro Pacific music and food.

  • Carnaval de Negros y Blancos: Pasto, usually in early January. A colorful festival of painting and parades.

  • Semana Santa: Popayán and Mompox, usually in March or April. Famous Holy Week processions.

Music and dance

  • Salsa: I took a salsa lesson and tried dancing salsa. Cali is the salsa capital, and Medellín has salsa schools and clubs where you can learn and go out.

  • Cumbia: the Caribbean coast dance, seen at festivals in Barranquilla and Cartagena.

  • Reggaeton and urban: Medellín is the home of artists like J Balvin, Karol G and Maluma. The clubs around Provenza and Parque Lleras play it all weekend.

  • Vallenato and cumbia: the accordion music of the Caribbean coast, heard in Valledupar and Cartagena.

  • Tango: Medellín has a surprising tango history. Carlos Gardel died here, and there are tango bars in Manrique.

  • Live: Cartagena's Getsemaní plazas and Medellín's La 70 in Laureles are good places for live nights.

Don't miss

  • A Comuna 13 graffiti tour with the Metrocable.

  • Guatapé and a climb of El Peñol.

  • Cartagena's walled city at sunset, and Getsemaní at night.

  • The coffee region, Salento and the Valle de Cocora wax palms.

  • Feria de las Flores in Medellín in August.

  • Carnaval de Barranquilla, held before Ash Wednesday.

Photography spots

  • Comuna 13: the murals and escalators, best in the morning.

  • Cerro Nutibara: Medellín's valley from Pueblito Paisa at golden hour.

  • Cartagena: the walls and old town at sunrise before the heat and crowds.

  • Santa Elena: flower farms and mountain roads.

  • Drones: check current rules, because registration is required and many urban and tourist areas are restricted.

My experience

Medellín is a place I keep coming back to. The weather is spring all year, the neighborhoods are easy to walk, and the city is full of people working remotely and learning Spanish. I also took a salsa lesson and tried dancing salsa, which I enjoyed even if I was a beginner. Paisa Spanish is clear and friendly, which made the language school easy. I would recommend it to remote workers, Spanish learners and anyone who wants to slow down for a month or more.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Medellín and Bogotá: $$, about 50% cheaper than New York. Cartagena runs higher.

  • Coffee: about $2

  • Local lunch: about $5

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $50

  • Beer or cocktail: about $2 / $6

  • Ride across town: about $3

  • Mid-range hotel: about $55 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $900 a month in Medellín's El Poblado, $1,000 in Bogotá's Chapinero

  • Daily budget: about $45 budget, $90 comfortable, $220+ luxury in Medellín

Colombia is great value, and Medellín is the reason I have stayed so long. El Poblado costs more than other neighborhoods, but a comfortable life there is still cheaper than most of the US. Cartagena is the priciest city. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Fiber is common in Medellín, typically 100 to 500 Mbps, and most apartments and cafes are reliable. Smaller towns can be slow, and occasional outages happen.

  • Coworking and cafes: Medellín is the top nomad city, with Selina and Atom House and cafes in El Poblado and Laureles. Bogotá has more coworking and big-city energy, and Cartagena is hot and pricier.

  • Time zone: UTC-5, the same as US Eastern in winter and 1 hour behind during daylight saving. Colombia does not change its clocks.

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens get up to 90 days on arrival, extendable to 180 days per year. Colombia has a Digital Nomad Visa (Visa V). Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 5 out of 5. Great community, low cost, good weather and internet, and plenty to do. Medellín is among the best nomad bases in the world.

Good to know

  • Language: Spanish. Paisa Spanish in Medellín is clear and a good place to learn. English is limited outside El Poblado and tourist Cartagena.

  • Currency: The Colombian peso. Cards work in Poblado, malls and most restaurants. Carry cash for small shops, street food and tips. Use bank ATMs inside malls or banks and decline the ATM's own conversion.

  • Plugs: Type A and B, 110 to 120V, the same as the US.

  • Entry for US citizens: No visa for tourism, typically up to 90 days per entry. Check current rules, including any online pre registration form before flights.

  • Best time to visit: Medellín has spring weather year round, and is drier from December to March and June to August. Cartagena and Barranquilla are driest from December to April. Bogotá is cool all year.

  • Getting around: Uber, DiDi, Cabify and inDrive work, along with the Metro in Medellín.

  • SIM/eSIM: Claro has the best coverage. Prepaid SIMs are easy at malls with a passport, and an eSIM works for short trips. WhatsApp is used for everything.

  • Apps: Rappi, which started in Colombia, delivers nearly everything including groceries in about ten minutes. DiDi Food also works.

  • Water: Tap water in Medellín is generally safe. Use bottled water on the coast.

  • Tipping: Restaurants usually suggest a 10 percent voluntary tip on the bill. Tips are not expected for taxis, but small tips for delivery and guides are appreciated.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Hola or Buenas

  • Thank you: Gracias

  • Please: Por favor

  • How much?: ¿Cuánto vale?

  • The check, please: La cuenta, por favor

Nightlife

Colombia loves to dance. Nights out are big, loud and social, with salsa, reggaeton and groups of friends sharing bottles, and it is more dance centered than most American nights out.

  • When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9, bars fill by 10, and clubs run from about midnight to 4. Thursday to Saturday are the big nights, and holiday weekends run into Monday.

  • Where the action is: In Medellín, El Poblado with Parque Lleras and Provenza, and Laureles for a more local feel. In Bogotá, Zona T and Chapinero.

  • The music: Reggaeton, salsa, vallenato and crossover, with salsa clubs for dancing.

  • Must-visit: Andrés Carne de Res outside Bogotá is a famous, sprawling party restaurant with live music and dancing, and worth planning a big night around.

  • Good to know: Many clubs charge a cover and bottle service is common in groups. Beer and aguardiente are cheap. Dress is smart casual. Use Uber or inDrive, never accept drinks from strangers, and keep your phone out of sight, especially around Lleras.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Medellin is one of the most social cities in the world for visitors, especially El Poblado and Laureles, with coworking spaces, language exchanges and a large nomad community. Bogota and Cartagena are also easy. Colombians are warm and welcoming.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are common. Meetup, Bumble BFF, Facebook groups and WhatsApp nomad groups are very active in Medellin.

  • Etiquette: Greetings are warm, a handshake or a kiss on the cheek. Plans often form last minute and starting times are loose. Bills are usually split, and a service charge is often added.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public, never leave your drink and never accept drinks from strangers. Scopolamine drugging is a known risk, and robberies happen after meeting people through apps.

Staying safe

  • Phone snatching is the number one risk in Medellín and Bogotá. Do not use your phone at the curb or at a red light with the window down.

  • Use the idea of no dar papaya: do not make yourself an easy target with a flashy watch or phone out.

  • At night use ride apps or hotel called taxis rather than street taxis.

  • If you meet people from dating apps, meet in public places and never leave your drink unattended. Drugging with scopolamine is a known risk in Medellín.

Alex Hall
Previous

Chile
Next

Costa Rica