Ireland

Ireland is green, friendly and easy to move around. I first visited many years ago, and went back to Dublin for three days in early June 2026 to see friends, between Scotland and Greece.

What I did

• Visited Ireland for the first time many years ago.

• Went back to Dublin for three nights in June 2026 to visit friends.

Where to stay

• Around St Stephen's Green and Grafton Street: central and polished.

• Portobello and the Liberties: local pubs and the Guinness Storehouse.

• Smithfield and Stoneybatter: the cooler, more local side north of the Liffey.

• Temple Bar: the tourist strip. Fun once, but loud.

Getting there and around

• Airport: there is no train. Take the Dublin Express or Aircoach bus, or a city bus. A taxi takes 25 to 40 minutes.

• In Dublin: the city is walkable. The Luas tram and buses accept a Leap card or contactless.

• Along the coast: the DART train runs to Howth and Dalkey.

What to eat

• Irish stew.

• A full Irish breakfast with black and white pudding.

• Boxty, coddle and soda bread.

• Seafood chowder.

What to drink

• Beer: a pint of Guinness, which really is better here. Visit the Guinness Storehouse, or just sit in a good pub and let it settle properly. Smithwick's and Murphy's are the other classics.

• Spirits: Irish whiskey such as Jameson, Redbreast or Teeling. Distillery tours in Dublin, including Teeling in the Liberties, are a simple way to taste a few.

• Cocktails: Irish coffee, and a hot whiskey with clove and lemon on a cold night.

• Spirits: Irish gin is growing fast, with Dingle and Drumshanbo among the names to look for.

• Tea: a strong pot of Barry's or Lyons tea. Irish tea is a ritual.

Don't miss

• Trinity College and the Book of Kells.

• The Guinness Storehouse and the Gravity Bar view.

• A trad music session in a real pub.

• Kilmainham Gaol.

• Howth Cliff Walk by DART.

Day trips and side trips

• Howth by DART.

• Glendalough and the Wicklow Mountains.

• Cliffs of Moher, a long day trip via Galway.

• Ring of Kerry and Dingle on a longer trip.

Festivals and events

• St Patrick's Festival: Dublin, March 17 and the days around it. Parades and music across the city.

• Bloomsday: Dublin, June 16. Readings and costumes celebrating Joyce's Ulysses.

• Body and Soul: Westmeath, usually in June. Boutique festival with a strong electronic and dance side.

• Forbidden Fruit and Longitude: Dublin, usually in June and July. Big city music weekends.

• Galway International Arts Festival: Galway, usually in July. Theater, music and street art.

• Galway Races: Galway, usually in late July. A week of racing and parties.

• Fleadh Cheoil: a different town each year, usually in August. The biggest traditional Irish music festival.

• Rose of Tralee and Puck Fair: Tralee and Killorglin, usually in August. Long-running summer festivals.

• Electric Picnic: Stradbally, usually in early September. Ireland's biggest music and arts festival, with a strong electronic stage.

• Dublin Theatre Festival: Dublin, usually in late September and October.

• Cork Jazz Festival: Cork, usually in late October. A weekend of jazz in pubs and halls.

• Halloween: across Ireland, October 31. The festival began here as Samhain.

Music and dance

• Traditional Irish music: fiddles, whistles and bodhrans in pub sessions. Temple Bar is touristy, and quieter pubs in Dublin and Galway are better.

• Rock and indie: a long list of Irish bands, with live venues around Dublin city center.

• Electronic: Dublin has a good club scene, with house and techno nights in warehouse venues.

• Ceili and set dancing: the traditional social dances, taught at ceili nights in Dublin, Galway and Cork. Beginners join in, and Irish dance shows are easy to find.

Photography spots

• Ha'penny Bridge: blue hour over the Liffey.

• Merrion Square: colorful Georgian doors.

• Howth cliffs: golden hour.

• Drones: EU rules apply, with registration through the IAA and restricted zones around Dublin.

My experience

Coming back to Ireland years after my first visit, this time to see friends, felt like catching up with an old favorite. Dublin felt welcoming and compact. It is a city that rewards walking and sitting in pubs. I would recommend it for a long weekend, with a side trip to the coast or mountains.

Cost of living

• Overall: Dublin and Galway: $$$$, about 10% cheaper than New York. Dublin is the priciest, and Cork and Galway run lower.

• Coffee: about $4.50

• Local lunch: about $15

• Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $130

• Beer or cocktail: about $8 / $16

• Ride across town: about $15

• Mid-range hotel: about $220 a night

• Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $2,500 a month in central Dublin, $1,700 in Galway

• Daily budget: about $110 budget, $230 comfortable, $450+ luxury in Dublin, roughly 20% less in Galway

Dublin is expensive, especially for accommodation and eating out. Pubs and bakeries keep lunch reasonable, and outside Dublin prices ease off a little. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Reliable and fast, often 100 Mbps or more in hotels and apartments, with Wi-Fi in most cafes.

• Coworking and cafes: Dublin is the main hub, with Dogpatch Labs and Huckletree plus cafes around Smithfield and Portobello. Galway and Cork are smaller, friendly cities with growing remote communities.

• Time zone: UTC+0, 5 hours ahead of US Eastern (4 hours for a few weeks in March and late October when daylight saving dates differ).

• Visa for longer stays: US citizens can stay up to 90 days without a visa. There is no digital nomad visa. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 3 out of 5. English speaking, safe and well connected, but costs are high.

Good to know

• Language: English. Irish (Gaeilge) is the other official language and appears on every sign.

• Currency: Euro. Contactless works almost everywhere.

• Plugs: Type G, UK-style three pins, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: Visa-free for short stays. Ireland is in the EU but not Schengen, so it has its own passport control. Check current rules.

• Best time to visit: May to September, though rain is possible any month.

• Getting around: Dublin is walkable, with trams, buses and trains.

• Apps: FreeNow is the main taxi app. Uber books licensed taxis. Deliveroo, Just Eat and Uber Eats for food.

• SIM/eSIM: An eSIM from Airalo or Holafly works well. Local prepaid is available from Three, Vodafone and Eir. EU roaming applies.

• Water: Tap water is safe to drink.

• Tipping: 10 to 15 percent at sit-down restaurants if service is not included. Not expected for drinks at the bar.

Useful phrases

No translation needed. A few Irish phrases you will see: Dia duit means hello and Go raibh maith agat means thank you. Locals say thanks and cheers in everyday English.

Nightlife

The pub is the center of Irish nightlife, and the night is about the craic: conversation, a pint and often live music. It is friendlier and more social than most US bars, and people talk to strangers. Pubs close earlier than you might expect, with clubs picking up the late end.

• When people go out: Pubs are lively from about 6 pm. Last orders are around 11:30 pm on weeknights and 12:30 am on weekends, and clubs stay open to 2 or 3 am.

• Where the action is: In Dublin, Temple Bar is famous, busy and pricey. Locals head to the pubs around Camden Street, South William Street and Stoneybatter.

• The music: Live traditional Irish music sessions in the pubs, with folk, rock and DJ sets in the clubs.

• Must-visit: A pub with a live trad session is the Irish night worth planning around. Dublin has many, and the Brazen Head claims to be the oldest pub in the city.

• Good to know: A pint costs more in Dublin than elsewhere in Ireland, and club covers are small. Dress is casual, smart casual for clubs. Temple Bar has pickpockets and pricey drinks, so keep your phone in your front pocket and use a taxi app to get back.

Meeting people

• Social scene: The Irish are friendly and chatty, and the pub is the center of social life. In Dublin, Temple Bar is touristy, so try the pubs around Portobello, Stoneybatter and South William Street for a local feel.

• Apps: Hinge, Bumble and Tinder are common, and Meetup and Facebook groups are used for events.

• Etiquette: A handshake and a friendly hello are normal. Be roughly on time, plans are often made casually, and buying rounds of drinks is the custom, so take your turn.

• Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink, and keep your phone and bag close in crowded pubs.

Staying safe

• Dublin is safe. Watch for pickpockets in Temple Bar and on O'Connell Street at night.

• Look right when crossing the road, since traffic drives on the left.

• Carry a rain jacket. Weather changes quickly.