Italy

Written By Alex Hall

Italy has been a repeat stop for me, from Naples, Rome and Positano on my first trip in 2018 to Lake Como, Milan, Sardinia and Puglia since. I came back in September 2022, September 2023, late summer 2025 and June 2026, and the food and coastline never get old.

What I did

  • Stayed on Lake Como in Blevio and in Como itself.

  • Based in Milan's Brera neighborhood.

  • Spent time in Sardinia: Cagliari, Santa Maria Navarrese and Palau.

  • Took a full-day boat tour of the La Maddalena archipelago from Palau.

  • Spent time in Puglia, in Polignano a Mare and Bari.

  • My first trip, in 2018: Naples, Rome and Positano on the Amalfi Coast.

  • Visited Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, while Pope Francis was there.

  • Took a guided Vatican and Colosseum tour in Rome.

  • Rode a horse up Mount Vesuvius, the volcano above Naples.

Where to stay

  • Brera, Milan: the prettiest neighborhood, with cobblestone streets and aperitivo spots. The Duomo is a short walk.

  • Como centro: inside the old walled center, a short walk to the lake, ferries and the Brunate funicular.

  • Santa Maria Navarrese, Sardinia: a small beach village and the base for the Gulf of Orosei.

  • Polignano a Mare, Puglia: an old town on limestone cliffs over the Adriatic.

  • Near Malpensa: La Viscontina in Somma Lombardo is handy for an early flight.

Where I stayed

Getting there and around

  • Milan Malpensa: the Malpensa Express train to Cadorna or Centrale takes about 40 to 50 minutes. Linate is close to the center, with the M4 metro.

  • Lake Como: trains from Milan to Como San Giovanni or Como Nord Lago.

  • Sardinia and Puglia: rent a car. Public transport is thin outside the cities.

  • Bari: the train runs to Bari Centrale, and the regional line serves Polignano a Mare.

  • Driving: historic centers are limited-traffic zones with cameras. Do not drive into them in a rental car.

What to eat

  • Milan: risotto alla milanese and cotoletta.

  • Lake Como: lake fish and risotto with perch.

  • Sardinia: culurgiones, porceddu and seadas.

  • Puglia: orecchiette with cime di rapa, focaccia barese and burrata.

  • Rome: cacio e pepe and carbonara.

  • Gelato in every town.

What to drink

  • Wine: Sardinia's Cannonau, a rich red, and Vermentino, a crisp white from the north near Palau. In Puglia, Primitivo is the bold red to order, and Negroamaro and Locorotondo whites are worth trying.

  • Wine: Franciacorta, Italy's answer to Champagne, is about an hour from Milan, and Brescia or Lake Iseo is a good base for a winery day.

  • Cocktails: the Aperol Spritz, the Negroni, and the Americano. Milan is the home of the aperitivo hour, and the Negroni Sbagliato was invented there.

  • Spirits: limoncello, amaro, grappa, and Mirto, the Sardinian myrtle liqueur.

  • Beer: Peroni and Moretti on the mainland, and Ichnusa in Sardinia.

  • Coffee: espresso standing at the bar, and an afternoon granita in Puglia.

Don't miss

  • Boat trip around La Maddalena.

  • Gulf of Orosei beaches by boat.

  • Lama Monachile beach in Polignano a Mare.

  • Milan's Duomo and the Galleria.

  • The Last Supper in Milan, booked well ahead.

  • Bari Vecchia, where locals make orecchiette on the street.

  • Vatican City: St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and, if you time it right, the Pope's Sunday Angelus blessing over St. Peter's Square or his Wednesday general audience.

Day trips and side trips

  • Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio from Como.

  • Alberobello trulli, Ostuni and Matera from Puglia.

  • Bergamo's upper town from Milan.

  • Cala Goloritze and Cala Luna from Santa Maria Navarrese.

  • Tivoli from Rome.

Festivals and events

  • Venice Carnival: Venice, usually in February. Masks and costumes in the canals.

  • Carnevale di Viareggio: Viareggio, usually in February. Giant papier-mache floats.

  • Sanremo Music Festival: Sanremo, usually in February. Italy's national song contest.

  • Milan Design Week: Milan, usually in April. The whole city turns into a design show.

  • Vinitaly: Verona, usually in April. The biggest wine trade fair in the country.

  • Sant'Efisio: Cagliari, usually from May 1. A famous procession in traditional dress.

  • Festa di San Nicola: Bari, usually in May. A procession by sea in honor of the patron saint.

  • Terraforma: Milan, usually in June. A leading electronic music festival in a villa park.

  • Kappa FuturFestival: Turin, usually in early July. The big Italian EDM and house festival.

  • Palio di Siena: Siena, July 2 and August 16. Bareback horse racing in the main piazza.

  • Umbria Jazz: Perugia, usually in July. A major jazz festival.

  • Festa del Redentore: Venice, usually in July. Fireworks over the lagoon.

  • Time in Jazz: Berchidda, Sardinia, usually in August. Jazz in the countryside.

  • Notte della Taranta: Puglia, usually in August. A huge folk music festival ending with a mass concert.

  • Venice Film Festival: Venice, usually in late August and September.

  • Club to Club: Turin, usually in late autumn. Electronic and experimental music.

Music and dance

  • Opera: La Scala in Milan is the temple of opera, and the Arena di Verona hosts summer shows.

  • Pizzica and folk: the tarantella-style music of Puglia, heard live at village summer festivals. Sardinia has its own polyphonic singing, canto a tenore.

  • Italian pop and cantautori: the soundtrack in cafes and radio everywhere.

  • Electronic: Milan and the Adriatic coast have strong house and techno club scenes, and Puglia beach clubs run DJ nights in summer.

  • Tarantella and pizzica: the fast folk dances of southern Italy, danced at village festivals in Puglia, with workshops around Salento. Italy also has a strong beach club and nightclub scene in summer.

Photography spots

  • Lake Como: Varenna and Bellagio from the ferry at golden hour.

  • Milan: the Duomo facade at sunrise, before the crowds.

  • Polignano a Mare: Lama Monachile from the bridge at sunrise.

  • Gulf of Orosei: from the water in the morning.

  • Drones: EU and Italian rules apply, and many historic centers and parks, including La Maddalena, restrict flying.

My experience

Italy rewards slow travel. Each region felt different: Naples loud and full of life, Positano straight off a postcard, Rome a museum you can walk through, Milan polished, Como calm, Sardinia wild and turquoise, and Puglia warm and white-washed. I would recommend it for anyone who loves food and coastlines, especially outside August. The wine and drinks were amazing everywhere I went, from Cannonau in Sardinia to Primitivo in Puglia.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Milan, Rome and Bologna: $$$, about 20% cheaper than New York. Milan runs highest, and Puglia and Sicily are cheaper.

  • Coffee: about $2

  • Local lunch: about $15

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $100

  • Beer or cocktail: about $6 / $12

  • Ride across town: about $15

  • Mid-range hotel: about $190 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $2,000 a month in Milan's Brera, $1,800 in Rome's Trastevere, $1,300 in Bologna

  • Daily budget: about $90 budget, $190 comfortable, $400+ luxury in Milan, slightly less in Rome and Bologna

Italy is great value for food, with coffee at the bar and lunch menus keeping the daily cost down. Milan and the coastal hot spots cost much more than the south. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Generally good in cities, 50 to 200 Mbps, but older buildings and small towns can be slow. Check the speed before booking longer stays.

  • Coworking and cafes: Milan has the best coworking, including Copernico and Talent Garden, plus cafes around Brera and Navigli. Rome has the most to do and a solid nomad scene. Bologna is a student city with great food and lower costs.

  • Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (5 hours for a couple of weeks around the daylight saving changes).

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days in any 180 across the Schengen Area. Italy launched a Digital Nomad Visa in 2024 with income and insurance requirements. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 4 out of 5. Fantastic lifestyle and a visa option, with some paperwork and uneven internet in smaller places.

Good to know

  • Language: Italian. English is fine in tourist areas, but thinner in the south and Sardinia.

  • Currency: Euro. Cards work in most places. Carry some cash for small bars and beach kiosks.

  • Plugs: Type C, F and L, 230V. Bring an adapter.

  • Entry for US citizens: Italy is in Schengen and US citizens can visit visa-free for short stays. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: May to June and September to October. August is peak on the coasts and many locals leave city centers.

  • Getting around: Trains are good between cities. Rent a car for Sardinia and Puglia. Uber is limited, so use taxis.

  • Apps: Uber is limited. FreeNow and itTaxi for taxis. Glovo, Deliveroo and Just Eat for food.

  • SIM/eSIM: An eSIM from Airalo or Holafly is easy. Local prepaid is available from TIM, Vodafone, WindTre and Iliad.

  • Water: Tap water is safe to drink in most places.

  • Tipping: Not expected. A coperto (cover charge) is often on the bill. Round up or leave a few euros for great service.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Ciao or Buongiorno

  • Thank you: Grazie

  • Please: Per favore

  • How much?: Quanto costa?

  • The check, please: Il conto, per favore

Nightlife

Italian nightlife is built around food and company. The evening starts with aperitivo, moves to a late dinner and then maybe a bar or club, and the pace is unhurried. Italians dress up to go out, so it is dressier than most US nights.

  • When people go out: Aperitivo is from about 6 to 9 pm, dinner is at 9 or later, and clubs get going after midnight. Weekends are the big nights, and in summer the coast is busy every night.

  • Where the action is: In Rome, Trastevere and Testaccio are the busiest. In Naples, Chiaia and the old center are energetic. In Milan, the Navigli canals and Brera are the aperitivo and cocktail zones, and Sardinia's Costa Smeralda has the big beach scene.

  • The music: Italian pop, house and commercial dance in the clubs, with live music in the smaller bars.

  • Good to know: Wine and spritz are cheap in neighborhood bars and expensive on a piazza or by a landmark. Club entry and tables in Milan and Sardinia can be costly. Dress smart, since the best places turn away shorts. Use licensed white taxis or ride apps, and watch for pickpockets in crowded bar areas in Naples and Rome.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Italians are social and open, and life happens over meals and aperitivo. Milan and Rome have the biggest international scenes, and coworking spaces and language exchanges are good starting points.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used, and Meetup and Facebook groups help for expat events.

  • Etiquette: Greetings are a handshake, and friends often kiss on both cheeks. Dinner starts late, plans can run casually, and splitting the bill is common.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public places, watch your drink, and check prices before sitting at tourist cafes near major sights.

Staying safe

  • Watch for pickpockets around Rome's big sights, Milan Centrale and the Duomo.

  • Validate train tickets before boarding regional trains.

  • Avoid ZTL zones in a rental car, as fines are sent by mail.

  • Parking at small ports like Palau can be hard, so arrive early.

Alex Hall
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