Japan

Written By Alex Hall

Japan is clean, efficient and endlessly interesting. I have visited twice for about a week, in early December 2023 and early December 2025, moving between Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

What I did

  • Visited Shibuya Crossing and the Don Quijote store in Shibuya.

  • Spent time in Shinjuku, staying in Kabukicho in 2023 and Nishi-Shinjuku in 2025.

  • Took the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kyoto both times.

  • Explored Kyoto's Higashiyama temple district in late fall color.

  • Based in Osaka for a night before a flight out in 2023.

Where to stay

  • Nishi-Shinjuku, Tokyo: the calmer skyscraper side of the station. I liked Tokyu Stay Nishi Shinjuku, which has in-room washers.

  • Kabukicho, Tokyo: loud and neon, with Golden Gai nearby. Ignore the touts.

  • Gion North, Kyoto: near the Shirakawa canal, with Gion lanes close by.

  • Shimogyo, Kyoto: central and flat, close to Shijo and Nishiki Market. I stayed at Hotel Muso.

  • Hommachi, Osaka: quiet and cheap, with quick subway access to Dotonbori.

Where I stayed

Getting there and around

  • Narita airport: the Narita Express or Keisei Skyliner beats a taxi.

  • Kansai airport: the Haruka express runs to Kyoto, and the Nankai Rapi:t runs to Namba in Osaka.

  • Tokyo to Kyoto: the Shinkansen, a little over two hours.

  • Kyoto to Osaka: a short JR or Hankyu ride.

  • In cities: trains and subways beat taxis. Add a Suica or PASMO to Apple Wallet.

What to eat

  • Ramen: Tokyo shoyu or tonkotsu.

  • Sushi and tonkatsu.

  • Yakitori in Omoide Yokocho.

  • Takoyaki and okonomiyaki in Osaka.

  • Kaiseki and matcha sweets in Kyoto.

  • Konbini runs for egg sandwiches and fried chicken.

What to drink

  • Sake: Fushimi in Kyoto is a famous sake district with breweries and tasting rooms, and Nada near Kobe is Japan's biggest sake region, an easy day trip from Osaka.

  • Whisky: Japanese whisky is world famous. The Yamazaki Distillery sits between Kyoto and Osaka, and a whisky highball is the go-to drink with any meal.

  • Cocktails: chuhai and lemon sours at izakayas, and some of the world's best bartending in Ginza and Osaka.

  • Wine: Yamanashi, about two hours from Tokyo, is the main wine region, known for Koshu, a delicate white grape.

  • Beer: Asahi, Sapporo, Kirin and Yebisu on draft.

  • Tea and coffee: matcha in Kyoto and Uji, hot and cold canned coffee from vending machines, and old kissaten cafes.

Don't miss

  • Shibuya Crossing, ideally from above.

  • Fushimi Inari at sunrise.

  • Kiyomizu-dera and the old lanes of Higashiyama.

  • Arashiyama bamboo grove, early.

  • Dotonbori at night.

  • Senso-ji in Asakusa early in the morning.

  • Camera stores: Japan has the most amazing camera stores in the world and the best deals. Shinjuku is the hub: Map Camera and Yodobashi Camera, plus Fujiya Camera in Nakano and Bic Camera all over Tokyo.

Day trips and side trips

  • Nara and its deer park.

  • Hakone or Kawaguchiko for Mt. Fuji views.

  • Hiroshima and Miyajima by Shinkansen.

  • Kobe or Himeji Castle from Osaka.

  • Nikko or Kamakura from Tokyo.

Festivals and events

  • Hanami: across Japan, usually late March to early April. Picnics under cherry blossoms.

  • Sapporo Snow Festival: Sapporo, usually in February. Huge ice and snow sculptures.

  • Takayama Festival: Takayama, usually in April and October. Ornate floats.

  • Sanja Matsuri and Kanda Matsuri: Tokyo, usually in May. Portable shrines carried through the streets.

  • Rainbow Disco Club: Shizuoka, usually in May. A house and techno festival beside Mount Fuji.

  • Gion Matsuri: Kyoto, usually in July. Floats and parades through the old city all month.

  • Tenjin Matsuri: Osaka, usually in July. Boat processions and fireworks on the river.

  • Hakata Gion Yamakasa: Fukuoka, usually in July. Racing floats at dawn.

  • Fuji Rock: Niigata, usually in late July. Japan's biggest outdoor music festival, in the mountains.

  • Tanabata: across Japan, usually in July and August. Wishes tied to bamboo.

  • Sumida River Fireworks: Tokyo, usually in late July. The most famous fireworks show in the city.

  • Summer Sonic: Tokyo and Osaka, usually in August. Rock, pop and an electronic night on the eve.

  • Rock in Japan: Ibaraki, usually in August. A huge rock festival.

  • Awa Odori: Tokushima, usually in August. Japan's biggest dance festival.

  • Nebuta Matsuri: Aomori, usually in early August. Giant illuminated floats.

  • Obon and Gozan Okuribi: across Japan, mid August. Lanterns and Kyoto's mountain bonfires.

  • Ultra Japan: Tokyo Odaiba, usually in September. The big EDM festival on the bay.

  • Kishiwada Danjiri: Osaka area, usually in September. Fast floats through the streets.

  • Jidai Matsuri: Kyoto, October 22. A historical costume parade.

  • Joya no Kane: temples across Japan, December 31. Bells rung 108 times for the new year.

Music and dance

  • J-pop and rock: the mainstream sound. Live houses in Shibuya and Shimokitazawa have small gigs most nights.

  • Jazz: tiny jazz kissa and bars across Tokyo, with a real appreciation for vinyl.

  • Traditional: taiko drumming and shamisen, performed at festivals and in Kyoto theaters.

  • Electronic: Tokyo has a world class techno and house scene, with clubs such as Contact and Womb in Shibuya.

  • Bon odori and Awa Odori: traditional festival dances in summer that visitors can join, especially in Tokushima. Tokyo also has salsa, swing and club nights, and classes in traditional dance.

Photography spots

  • Shibuya Crossing: from above, at dusk.

  • Kabukicho: neon at blue hour.

  • Shirakawa canal, Kyoto: at night.

  • Fushimi Inari: first light.

  • Drones: heavily restricted, with registration required.

My experience

As a photographer, Japan is heaven. The camera stores are the best in the world, and it is the place to buy used cameras tax free. Japan felt calm and precise, even in the busiest places. Early December gave me cold, clear days and the tail end of fall color in Kyoto. I would recommend it to almost anyone, especially as a first Asia trip. The drinks were amazing, from sake to whisky highballs.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto: $$$, about 25% cheaper than New York. Tokyo is highest, and Osaka is a little cheaper.

  • Coffee: about $3.50

  • Local lunch: about $9

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $90

  • Beer or cocktail: about $5 / $10

  • Ride across town: about $15

  • Mid-range hotel: about $130 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,500 a month in Tokyo's Shinjuku, $1,100 in Osaka, $1,200 in Kyoto

  • Daily budget: about $80 budget, $170 comfortable, $350+ luxury in Tokyo, around 10% less in Osaka

Japan is better value than people expect. Ramen, set lunches and convenience store meals are cheap and good, while hotels in Tokyo and Kyoto have gotten pricier. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Fast and dependable, with 100 Mbps or more common in hotels. Pocket Wi-Fi or an eSIM is useful on the move.

  • Coworking and cafes: Tokyo has the most coworking, including WeWork, and a big foreign community. Osaka is cheaper and more relaxed, and Kyoto is lovely for slow stays though less set up for laptops. Fukuoka is a favorite among nomads.

  • Time zone: UTC+9, 14 hours ahead of US Eastern (13 hours in summer, with a couple of weeks off at the daylight saving changes).

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days visa-free. Japan introduced a Digital Nomad visa in 2024 for up to 6 months, with an income requirement. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 4 out of 5. Safe, fast internet and incredible daily life, with a language barrier and some cafe etiquette to learn.

Good to know

  • Language: Japanese. English signage is good in transit but thinner in small restaurants, so a translation app helps.

  • Currency: Japanese yen. Cash still matters at small spots. 7-Eleven ATMs take foreign cards.

  • Plugs: Type A and B, 100V. US plugs fit, but grounded three-prong plugs often do not.

  • Entry for US citizens: Visa-free for short stays. Fill out Visit Japan Web before landing. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: Late March to early April for cherry blossoms, and mid-November to early December for fall color.

  • Getting around: Trains are fast and almost always better than taxis.

  • Apps: GO is the main taxi app. Uber books licensed taxis. Uber Eats and Demae-can for food.

  • SIM/eSIM: Get a data eSIM before landing, such as Airalo or Ubigi.

  • Water: Tap water is safe to drink.

  • Tipping: Not done. Good service is the default.

  • Buying cameras: The best place in the world to buy used cameras and lenses. Used gear is in great condition, and visitors can shop tax free with a passport on purchases over 5,000 yen.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Konnichiwa

  • Thank you: Arigatou gozaimasu

  • Please: Onegaishimasu

  • How much?: Ikura desu ka?

  • The check, please: Okaikei onegaishimasu

Nightlife

Japanese nights move between places. A group starts at an izakaya, heads to a second bar, maybe karaoke, and the last train deadline shapes the whole night. It is safe, polite and surprisingly late, and tiny bars with a handful of seats replace the big loud venues Americans expect.

  • When people go out: Izakayas fill from about 6 pm. Trains stop around midnight and restart at 5, so many people either leave early or stay out until the first train. Weekends are busiest.

  • Where the action is: In Tokyo, Shinjuku, Shibuya and Roppongi are the main areas. In Osaka, Dotonbori is the busiest, and in Kyoto, Pontocho has quiet old style bars.

  • The music: Karaoke classics and J pop, with house and hip hop in Shibuya and Roppongi clubs, and jazz in small bars.

  • Must-visit: Golden Gai in Shinjuku is a lane of around 200 tiny bars, each seating a handful of people, and it is worth planning a night around.

  • Good to know: Many small bars have a seating charge, and clubs charge entry that often includes a drink. Dress neat and casual, and tattoos can be an issue in some venues. Avoid touts in Kabukicho and Roppongi who pull people into overpriced bars.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Japan is polite and reserved, and meeting people takes some effort but is rewarding. Tokyo has coworking spaces, language exchanges and izakaya meetups, and hostels in Kyoto and Osaka are good for casual connections.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used in the big cities, and Meetup and Facebook groups help for events.

  • Etiquette: A bow is the traditional greeting, and a slight bow or nod is fine for visitors. Be punctual, keep your voice low in public, and splitting the bill is common.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public places and watch your drink. Be wary of street touts in nightlife districts such as Kabukicho and Roppongi who steer you into bars.

Staying safe

  • Japan is very safe, but watch for touts and overpriced bars around Kabukicho at night.

  • Earthquake alerts are normal. Know your hotel's exits.

  • Do not photograph geiko or maiko without permission, and respect no-photo signs in Gion lanes.

Alex Hall
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