Malta
Malta is a small, sunny island with limestone streets, blue water and a history that goes back thousands of years. I spent a week there in September 2023, based in Sliema. September is still warm enough to swim, and the summer crowds have thinned out.
What I did
Based in Sliema for seven nights, walking the seafront promenade and swimming off the rocks.
Spent a night out in St Julian's, in the Paceville area.
Went along the water to Ta' Xbiex, the marina neighborhood next to Sliema.
Finished the trip with a swim at Kalanka Bay on the southeast coast, near Marsaxlokk.
Where to stay
Sliema: The easiest base on the island. I stayed in an Airbnb studio here, close to the promenade, cafes and the Valletta ferry.
St Julian's: A walk north along the water, with restaurants and nightlife. Paceville gets loud late.
Valletta: Worth considering if you want to be inside the old city and walk it early before the day crowds.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Sliema: 4.69 on Airbnb (397 reviews). Refurbished studio in Sliema, Malta's most sought-after area.
Getting there and around
The airport is about 20 to 30 minutes from Sliema by Uber or Bolt. Public buses run too but are slower.
The ferry from Sliema to Valletta takes about 10 minutes and beats the traffic.
Gozo is reached by the car ferry from Cirkewwa or the fast ferry from Valletta.
Driving is on the left, traffic is heavy and parking is hard, so ferries and ride-hailing are easier.
What to eat
Pastizzi: Flaky pastries filled with ricotta or peas. Cheap and everywhere.
Ftira: A Maltese sandwich with tuna, capers, olives and tomato.
Rabbit stew: Stuffat tal-fenek, the national dish.
Lampuki pie: A fish pie that comes into season in autumn.
What to drink
Wine: Maltese wine is underrated. Look for Gellewza and Girgentina, the native grapes, from producers like Delicata and Marsovin. Gozo has good small wineries too.
Beer: Cisk is the local lager, and Farsons is the brewery behind it. Simple and cold, ideal after a swim.
Soft drink: Kinnie is a bitter orange soda that tastes like nothing else. Try it once, ideally with ice.
Spirits: Prickly pear liqueur, called Bajtra, is the local souvenir drink.
Coffee: Cafes in Valletta and Sliema serve good Italian style espresso.
Don't miss
The ferry from Sliema to Valletta, then Upper Barrakka Gardens and St John's Co-Cathedral.
Mdina, the silent city, at dusk.
Comino and the Blue Lagoon. Go early or late, because midday is crowded.
A day on Gozo for the Citadel, Ramla Bay and Dwejra.
The Sunday fish market in Marsaxlokk with its colorful luzzu boats.
The Hypogeum and the megalithic temples, if you book ahead.
Day trips and side trips
Gozo and Comino by ferry.
The Blue Grotto by boat.
The Three Cities by water taxi from Valletta.
Marsaxlokk and the Delimara coast for swim spots.
Festivals and events
Carnival: Valletta, usually in February. Floats, costumes and dancing in the old city.
Holy Week: Across the island, usually in March or April. Solemn processions with statues.
Notte Bianca: Valletta, usually in autumn. A night of free events, music and open museums.
Malta International Fireworks Festival: Grand Harbour, usually in April. Displays over the water.
Village festas: Different towns, usually from June to September. Brass bands, fireworks and street food.
Lost & Found Festival: Malta, usually in May. Electronic music and island parties by the sea.
Malta Jazz Festival: Valletta, usually in July.
Mnarja: Buskett Gardens, usually on June 29. Folk singing, food and horse races.
Music and dance
Folk and ghana: Maltese folk singing, called ghana, is heard at village festas and Mnarja.
Brass bands: Every town has a band that plays at festas, and you will often hear them in the streets.
Clubs and live music: Paceville in St Julian's has the clubs, and Valletta has jazz and acoustic bars.
Dance: The Il-Maltija folk dance appears at festas and Mnarja, and Paceville in St Julian's is the place to go dancing.
Photography spots
Valletta: Upper Barrakka Gardens at sunset, looking over the Three Cities.
Sliema waterfront: The Valletta skyline at blue hour.
Marsaxlokk: Luzzu boats in morning light.
Dwejra, Gozo: Sunset.
Drones: Registration and permission are required in many areas, with limits near the airport, Valletta and heritage sites. Check current drone rules.
My experience
Malta was a relaxed week. Sliema was an easy place to settle, with the sea always a few steps away, and the ferry to Valletta was my favorite way to get around. I would recommend it for a slow island break outside peak summer, and for nomads who want warm weather and English everywhere.
Cost of living
Overall: Sliema and St Julian's (one city area, since Malta is small): $$$, about 20% cheaper than New York. Valletta is similar, and Gozo is cheaper.
Coffee: about $3
Local lunch: about $12
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $100
Beer or cocktail: about $7 / $9
Ride across town: about $8
Mid-range hotel: about $130 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,600 a month in Sliema or St Julian's
Daily budget: about $90 budget, 180 comfortable, 400+ luxury
Malta is cheaper than most of Western Europe but not cheap. Rent and summer hotels are the big costs, while eating out and getting around are reasonable. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Generally good, often 50 to 200 Mbps in apartments and hotels. Cafes in Sliema and Valletta are fine for work. Check the speed before booking a long stay.
Coworking and cafes: Best bases are Sliema and St Julian's, with coworking spaces and cafes and the most nomads, and Valletta for a historic setting with good cafes.
Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (5 or 7 for a few weeks when the US and Europe change clocks on different dates).
Visa for longer stays: Malta is in the Schengen Area, so US citizens get 90 days in any 180. The Nomad Residence Permit allows longer stays. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 4 out of 5. English everywhere, good weather and a real nomad scene, held back by high rent.
Good to know
Language: Maltese and English are both official, and everyone speaks English. Italian is widely understood too.
Currency: Euro. Cards are widely accepted.
Plugs: Type G (UK three-pin), 230V.
Entry for US citizens: Malta is in Schengen, and US citizens are visa-free for short stays. Check current rules.
Best time to visit: April to June and September to October. July and August are very hot.
Getting around: Uber, Bolt and eCabs work, and the ferries are fast.
Tipping: 5 to 10 percent at restaurants is appreciated but not required.
SIM/eSIM: An eSIM such as Airalo or Holafly, or a local prepaid from Epic, GO or Melita. EU roaming applies.
Apps: Uber, Bolt and eCabs for rides, and Wolt and Bolt Food for delivery.
Water: Tap water is safe, though many people prefer bottled for taste.
Useful phrases
Note: English is an official language, so you will get by without any Maltese.
Hello: Bongu (good morning)
Thank you: Grazzi
How much?: Kemm jiswa?
Nightlife
Malta goes out in a very European way, with a long dinner first and the party starting late. It is a small island with one big party district, plus calmer waterfront and old-town scenes for everyone else. It is more compact and busier in summer than most American visitors expect.
When people go out: Dinner is usually 8 to 9 pm, the party district fills after 11 pm, and weekend nights run until about 4 am. Friday and Saturday are the big nights, and summer is the busiest season.
Where the action is: Paceville in St Julian's is the center of the nightlife, with a dense strip of bars, clubs and late-night food. Sliema is calmer, with waterfront bars along the promenade, and Valletta has wine bars and live music in the old streets.
The music: Commercial house, pop and R&B in the Paceville clubs, with live bands and acoustic sets in Valletta.
Good to know: Covers are common at Paceville clubs on weekends, and drinks are fair for Europe. Dress is casual to smart casual, and some clubs refuse flip-flops or sports kit. Paceville gets rowdy late, so keep your phone and wallet close, watch your drink and take a licensed taxi or ride app back.
Meeting people
Social scene: Malta is small and social, and English is spoken everywhere, which makes it easy. Sliema, St. Julian's and Valletta have coworking spaces, language schools and plenty of other travelers and expats.
Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are common, along with Meetup and Facebook groups for expats and digital nomads in Malta.
Etiquette: A handshake or a light cheek kiss among friends is normal. Timing is relaxed, and plans often form the same day over a message. Splitting the bill is standard.
Stay smart: Meet in busy public spots, watch your drink around St. Julian's nightlife strip, and keep your phone and wallet secure in crowds.
Staying safe
Malta is very safe. Normal city awareness is enough.
Paceville in St Julian's gets rowdy late at night.
The sun is strong, and the rocky swim spots can be slippery, so wear water shoes.