Mexico

Written By Alex Hall

Mexico is the country I have come back to most. Since 2021 I have spent time in Puerto Vallarta, Cancun, Los Cabos, Guadalajara, Playa del Carmen and Mexico City, including long stays in the capital during Dia de los Muertos season in 2023 and 2024. It means great food, easy flights from the US and a city that never runs out of things to do.

What I did

  • Spent Dia de los Muertos in Mexico City in October and November.

  • Based in Juarez, Polanco, Roma Norte, Condesa and Colonia Cuauhtemoc over several stays.

  • Took a full day on the Tequila Route out of Guadalajara, with mariachi along the way.

  • Visited Chichen Itza as a day trip from the Cancun and Playa del Carmen side.

  • Spent weeks in San Jose del Cabo, the calmer and artsier side of Los Cabos.

  • Visited Puerto Vallarta, Cancun and Playa del Carmen on earlier trips.

  • Rang in New Year's Eve 2020 in Tulum, in the middle of COVID.

  • Spent two weeks in Los Cabos in June and July 2026, including a stay at Solaz.

Where to stay

  • Roma Norte, Mexico City: Tree-lined streets, cafes and mezcal bars. The most popular base for remote workers.

  • Condesa: Walkable and green around Parque Mexico. I stayed in an Airbnb here.

  • Polanco: Upscale and leafy, close to Chapultepec Park and the big museums, with the best restaurants.

  • Juarez and Cuauhtemoc: Central, right behind Reforma and easy to reach everything.

  • Colonia Americana, Guadalajara: Old mansions, cafes and mezcal bars.

  • San Jose del Cabo: A colonial center and the Gallery District, much calmer than Cabo San Lucas.

Where I stayed

A note on Tulum

I spent New Year's Eve 2020 in Tulum and it was a special moment. Today I would skip it and choose another spot on the coast, like Bacalar, Holbox or a quieter stretch near Akumal. Here is why.

  • It is a ghost town now: the crowds have moved on, and many beach clubs, restaurants and hotels sit half empty or have closed.

  • Sargassum: thick seaweed often covers the beaches from roughly April to September.

  • Safety: police shakedowns of tourists are common, often stopping visitors and demanding cash, and it can feel like everyone wants a cut. Keep your ID and only small cash on you, and stay alert, especially at night.

  • High prices: many places price in US dollars, and you pay more than in most of Mexico for less.

Getting there and around

  • Mexico City airport has two terminals that are far apart, so check which one you need. Uber works from both, and authorized airport taxis with prepaid tickets are the other safe option.

  • Guadalajara airport is 30 to 40 minutes from the center by Uber.

  • At Los Cabos airport, Uber pickup is restricted, so pre-book a shuttle or use airport taxis.

  • At Cancun, pre-book a bus or shuttle to Playa del Carmen, about 45 to 60 minutes away.

  • Between cities, domestic flights are cheap and quick, and long-distance buses are comfortable.

What to eat

  • Tacos al pastor: Everywhere in Mexico City, and the classics are in Roma, Condesa and Centro.

  • Chilaquiles: The breakfast staple at any cafe.

  • Pan de muerto: Sweet bread sold at bakeries around Dia de los Muertos.

  • Torta ahogada and birria: The Guadalajara classics.

  • Cochinita pibil: A Yucatan dish to find around Playa del Carmen.

What to drink

  • Tequila: I took a full day on the Tequila Route out of Guadalajara, and it was one of my favorite days in Mexico. Visit the distilleries, walk the blue agave fields and taste the difference between blanco, reposado and anejo. The drinks were fantastic.

  • Mezcal: Oaxaca is the heart of mezcal country. In Mexico City, the mezcal bars in Roma and Condesa are great places to learn the smoky styles.

  • Raicilla: A Jalisco spirit from around Puerto Vallarta, a bit wilder than tequila.

  • Cocktails: Margaritas, palomas and the Guadalajara classic, the cantarito, served in a clay cup with citrus and salt.

  • Beer: Modelo, Pacifico and the many craft options. Order a michelada for something savory.

  • Wine: Valle de Guadalupe in Baja is the main wine region, with a base in Ensenada or Tijuana for a day trip.

  • Coffee: Chiapas and Veracruz beans, plus good specialty cafes in Roma and Condesa.

Don't miss

  • Dia de los Muertos, from late October to November 2.

  • Teotihuacan at sunrise.

  • Xochimilco by trajinera, and the Frida Kahlo Museum in Coyoacan. Book Casa Azul ahead.

  • A taco crawl through Roma, Condesa and Centro.

  • Cenotes on the Riviera Maya, plus Tulum and Chichen Itza early in the day.

  • El Arco and whale season in Los Cabos, from December to April.

Day trips and side trips

  • Teotihuacan from Mexico City.

  • Puebla or Cuernavaca from Mexico City.

  • The Tequila Route and Tlaquepaque from Guadalajara.

  • Chichen Itza, Tulum and the cenotes from Playa del Carmen or Cancun.

  • Isla Mujeres or Holbox from Cancun.

  • Todos Santos from Los Cabos.

Festivals and events

  • Dia de los Muertos: Mexico City, Oaxaca and Patzcuaro, usually from October 31 to November 2. Altars, marigolds, parades and face painting.

  • Guelaguetza: Oaxaca, usually in July. Dance and music from the region's communities.

  • Independence Day: Everywhere, usually on the night of September 15. The grito in the Zocalo is the main event.

  • Carnaval: Mazatlan and Veracruz, usually in February or March.

  • Feria de San Marcos: Aguascalientes, usually from April to May. A big fair with bullfights, concerts and food.

  • International Mariachi and Charreria Encuentro: Guadalajara, usually in late August or early September.

  • EDC Mexico: Mexico City, usually in February. One of the biggest electronic music festivals in Latin America.

  • Tulum electronic season (Zamna, BPM-style events): Tulum, usually from November to March. Techno and house in the jungle.

  • Vive Latino: Mexico City, usually in March. The biggest Latin rock festival.

  • Corona Capital: Mexico City, usually in November. A major alternative music festival.

  • Cervantino Festival: Guanajuato, usually in October. Arts and culture with international acts.

  • Semana Santa: Across the country, usually in March or April. Processions, notably in San Miguel de Allende and Taxco.

Music and dance

  • Mariachi: Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City and Tlaquepaque in Guadalajara are the classic places to hear it live.

  • Banda and norteno: Regional sounds from the north and Pacific coast, and you will hear them in cantinas and at parties.

  • Son jarocho and Oaxacan bands: Brass bands and folk music at festivals in Veracruz and Oaxaca.

  • Electronic and reggaeton: Mexico City and Tulum have a strong club scene, with techno and house in the jungle in Tulum.

  • Dance: Folklorico dance is the signature tradition, and you can see it at the Guelaguetza in Oaxaca and at cultural shows in Mexico City.

  • Salsa and cumbia: Mexico City has salsa clubs and dance schools where you can take a class, and cantinas and parties are full of cumbia.

Photography spots

  • Mexico City: Reforma and the Angel at blue hour, and the Torre Latinoamericana deck at sunset.

  • Dia de los Muertos: Altars in the Zocalo and the Catrina procession on Reforma. Ask before close portraits.

  • Guadalajara and Tequila: The cathedral at golden hour and blue agave fields in late afternoon.

  • Chichen Itza: First entry for clean shots of El Castillo.

  • Drones: Registration is required for many drones, and archaeological sites and airports are off-limits. Check current drone rules.

My experience

New Year's Eve 2020 in Tulum, in the middle of COVID, is a memory I will always have, but I would point friends elsewhere on the coast today. Mexico City is where I kept wanting to stay longer. Each neighborhood has a different mood, and I could stay for weeks and still find new corners. Dia de los Muertos was the standout. The Tequila Route and the drinks around Guadalajara and Los Cabos gave me a break from the capital, and the tequila and mezcal everywhere were amazing. I would recommend it to food lovers, photographers and nomads who want a big city with great weather.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Mexico City, Playa del Carmen and Guadalajara: $$, about 40% cheaper than New York. Los Cabos and Cancun run noticeably higher.

  • Coffee: about $3.5

  • Local lunch: about $6

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $60

  • Beer or cocktail: about $5 / $6

  • Ride across town: about $4

  • Mid-range hotel: about $90 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,200 a month in Mexico City's Roma Norte or Condesa, $1,100 in Playa del Carmen, $800 in Guadalajara

  • Daily budget: about $50 budget, $120 comfortable, $300+ luxury in Mexico City, a little less in Guadalajara

Mexico City and the other big cities are good value, though the beach resorts like Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Los Cabos price closer to the US. I get the most for my money in the capital. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Good in Mexico City, Guadalajara and Playa del Carmen, usually 50 to 300 Mbps in apartments. Resort towns can be patchier, and power or internet drops happen in some places.

  • Coworking and cafes: Best nomad cities are Mexico City for its huge coworking and cafe scene in Roma Norte and Condesa, Playa del Carmen for beach life with a strong community, and Guadalajara for lower costs and a growing tech crowd.

  • Time zone: Mexico City is UTC-6 with no daylight saving, 1 hour behind US Eastern in winter and the same time in summer. Cancun is UTC-5.

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens usually get up to 180 days visa-free, set by the border officer. Mexico has no dedicated nomad visa, but temporary resident visas exist. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 4.5 out of 5. Great food, strong community, close to the US and good value, with some care needed on safety.

Good to know

  • Language: Spanish. English is common in tourist areas and in Roma, Condesa and Polanco, and much less so elsewhere. A little Spanish goes a long way.

  • Currency: Mexican peso. Cards work almost everywhere in Mexico City, but carry cash for street food, markets and tips.

  • Plugs: Type A and B, the same as the US, so no adapter is needed.

  • Entry for US citizens: No visa for tourism. Immigration decides how many days you get, so have your onward ticket and address ready. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: Late October to April for most of the country. Mexico City is good year round, with afternoon rain from June to September. The Caribbean hurricane season runs from June to November.

  • Getting around: Uber and DiDi work in the big cities.

  • Tipping: 10 to 15 percent at sit-down restaurants. Check the bill for service already included, and tip guides and drivers.

  • SIM/eSIM: Telcel has the best coverage. An eSIM works for short trips, and a Telcel SIM from an OXXO is cheap for longer stays.

  • Apps: Uber, DiDi and Cabify for rides, and Rappi, Uber Eats and DiDi Food for delivery.

  • Water: Do not drink the tap water. Use bottled or filtered water.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Hola

  • Please: Por favor

  • Thank you: Gracias

  • How much?: Cuanto cuesta?

  • The check, please: La cuenta, por favor

Nightlife

Mexico goes out late and often, and it changes a lot by city. Mexico City is cocktail bars, mezcal and live music, the Riviera Maya is beach clubs and Fifth Avenue, and Puerto Vallarta is easy and walkable. Compared with a typical American night out, dinner is later, nights are longer and live music is everywhere.

  • When people go out: Dinner starts around 8 or 9 pm, bars fill after 10 pm, and clubs get going after midnight. Thursday to Saturday are the big nights, though Mexico City has good Sunday and weeknight options too.

  • Where the action is: In Mexico City, Roma and Condesa are best for cocktail bars, mezcalerias and rooftops, Polanco is dressier, and the Centro Historico has cantinas and live music. Playa del Carmen's Fifth Avenue and beach clubs lead the Riviera Maya, and Puerto Vallarta's Zona Romantica is lively and walkable.

  • The music: Reggaeton, Latin pop and house in the clubs, with mariachi, banda and norteno in the cantinas and plazas.

  • Must-visit: A night of mariachi around Plaza Garibaldi in Mexico City is a classic worth planning for, ideally with a cantina visit first.

  • Good to know: Many bars are free, clubs may charge a cover that includes a drink, and bottle service is common in Mexico City, Cancun and Los Cabos. Dress runs from casual in Roma to smart in Polanco and beach clubs. Use Uber or a radio taxi to get back rather than hailing one, and never leave a drink out of sight.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Mexico City is very easy for meeting people, especially in Roma, Condesa and Polanco, where coworking spaces, cafes, language exchanges and run clubs are everywhere. Locals tend to be warm and welcoming, and a little Spanish helps a lot.

  • Apps: Bumble, Hinge and Tinder are all widely used in Mexico City. Bumble BFF, Meetup, Facebook groups and WhatsApp or Telegram nomad groups are good for friends and events.

  • Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and a single cheek kiss is common among friends. Social plans often start late and run loose, so arriving a bit after the stated time is normal. The bill is usually split, and the person who invites often offers to pay.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink, and use Uber or another app rather than street taxis, especially at night.

Staying safe

  • Use ride apps rather than street taxis at night.

  • Watch your phone in crowds, such as Centro, the Metro and festivals.

  • Roma, Condesa, Polanco and Juarez are easy to walk by day.

  • Check the US State Department advisory for the state before road trips.

Alex Hall
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