Montenegro

Written By Alex Hall

Montenegro packs mountains, a fjord-like bay and old stone towns into a very small country. I visited in September 2022 as a day trip across the border from Croatia, during my month based in Split. It was a short taste, and I would go back for a full week.

What I did

  • Crossed the border from Croatia for a day trip in September 2022.

  • Saw the Bay of Kotor area, the classic day trip from the Croatian coast.

  • Based myself in Split rather than staying overnight in Montenegro.

Where to stay

  • Kotor: A walled old town at the end of the bay, and the best base for the fortress walk and boat trips.

  • Perast: A quiet baroque village a few minutes up the bay, good for a calmer stay.

  • Budva: The beach and nightlife town, with Sveti Stefan close by.

  • Zabljak: The base for Durmitor National Park and the Tara River canyon.

Getting there and around

  • Driving is the easiest way to see the bay. There is no passenger train along the coast from Croatia, so the border crossing is by road.

  • Buses link Kotor, Budva, Herceg Novi and Podgorica.

  • Tivat airport is closest to Kotor, and Dubrovnik in Croatia is often the easiest gateway.

  • Water taxis run between Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks.

  • If you take a Croatian rental car across, you need green card insurance and the rental company's permission.

What to eat

  • Njegusi prsut and cheese: Smoked ham and cheese from the village above Kotor.

  • Seafood: Black risotto, grilled fish and mussels from the bay.

  • Kacamak: Cornmeal and potato with cheese, a hearty mountain dish.

  • Cevapi: Grilled meats, found everywhere.

What to drink

  • Wine: Vranac is the bold native red, and Krstac is the local white. The Plantaze vineyards near Podgorica are the biggest and offer cellar tours, and Lake Skadar is a lovely spot to taste.

  • Spirits: Rakija is the grape brandy, often served after dinner or as a welcome. Loza is the grape version, and herbal and plum variants appear in the mountains.

  • Beer: Niksicko is the national lager, brewed in Niksic. Easy to find and easy to like.

  • Coffee: Strong Turkish style coffee served in small cups, with no rush to leave.

Don't miss

  • Hiking the Kotor fortress walls early in the morning.

  • A boat from Perast to Our Lady of the Rocks.

  • The Kotor Serpentine, a road of switchbacks with the bay below.

  • Lovcen National Park and the Njegos Mausoleum.

  • The Sveti Stefan viewpoint at sunset.

  • Durmitor National Park and the Tara River canyon, if you have several days.

Day trips and side trips

  • Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks from Kotor.

  • Njegusi and Lovcen National Park along the Serpentine.

  • Budva and Sveti Stefan.

  • Lake Skadar by boat.

  • The Blue Cave by boat from Herceg Novi.

Festivals and events

  • Kotor Carnival: Kotor, usually in February. Masks and parades in the old town.

  • Fasinada: Perast, on July 22. Boats decorated with stones in a centuries old tradition.

  • Kotor Festival of Theatre for Children: Kotor, usually in summer.

  • Budva Grad Teatar: Budva, usually in July and August. Open air theatre and music in the old town.

  • Sea Dance Festival: Budva, usually in summer. Electronic and live music on the Adriatic.

  • Kotor Art: Kotor, usually in summer. A long running cultural program.

  • Bokeska Noc: Kotor, usually in August. A night of boats, lights and fireworks in the bay.

  • Navy Day: Tivat, usually in July. Naval parades.

Music and dance

  • Folk and gusle: Traditional songs sung to the gusle, a one string instrument, are heard in the mountains.

  • Brass and tamburica: Bands play at weddings and in konobas along the coast.

  • Pop and clubs: Budva has the beach clubs and DJ parties in summer.

  • Dance: The traditional kolo circle dance comes out at weddings and village celebrations, and in summer people go dancing at the beach clubs in Budva.

Photography spots

  • Kotor fortress: The classic view down over the old town and bay, at sunrise for soft light and no crowds.

  • Kotor Serpentine: The switchbacks with the bay below, late afternoon.

  • Perast: Golden hour from the waterfront with Our Lady of the Rocks.

  • Sveti Stefan: The road viewpoint above, at sunset.

  • Drones: Registration and permits apply, and rules near Tivat airport and border areas are strict. Check current drone rules.

My experience

My day in Montenegro was short but memorable. The scale of the mountains dropping into the water is something you notice right away, and it made me want to slow down and stay. I would recommend it as a day trip from Croatia if you are short on time, and as a full week if you are not.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Kotor, Budva and Podgorica: $$, about 50% cheaper than New York. Coastal Kotor and Budva jump in July and August, and Podgorica stays steady.

  • Coffee: about $2.5

  • Local lunch: about $8

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $55

  • Beer or cocktail: about $3 / $5

  • Ride across town: about $5

  • Mid-range hotel: about $75 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $800 a month in Budva or Kotor in the off season, $600 in Podgorica

  • Daily budget: about $45 budget, $100 comfortable, $250+ luxury on the coast, less in Podgorica

Montenegro is good value, especially outside July and August. Coastal prices jump in peak summer, and the inland towns are cheaper still. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Decent in towns and hotels, often 30 to 100 Mbps. It can be slower in mountain villages, so check before booking a remote stay.

  • Coworking and cafes: Best bases are Podgorica for year-round coworking and cheaper rent, Kotor for old-town atmosphere, and Budva for the beach and more services.

  • Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (5 or 7 for a few weeks around clock changes).

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days visa-free. Montenegro has a digital nomad residence permit for longer stays. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 3.5 out of 5. Cheap, scenic and safe, with a smaller nomad community and fewer flights.

Good to know

  • Language: Montenegrin, which is very close to Croatian, Serbian and Bosnian. English is common in tourist areas on the coast, and less so inland.

  • Currency: Euro, even though Montenegro is not in the EU. Cards work in most places.

  • Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.

  • Entry for US citizens: Montenegro is not in Schengen. US citizens have been visa-free for short stays, and you need your passport for the border even on a day trip. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: May, June and September. July and August are hot, and Kotor fills with cruise ship crowds.

  • Getting around: There is no Uber. Use official taxis, buses, or drive.

  • Tipping: About 10 percent at sit-down restaurants for good service, and round up at cafes and taxis.

  • SIM/eSIM: EU roaming does not apply. Buy a local SIM from One, m:tel or Crnogorski Telekom, or use a Balkans eSIM.

  • Apps: Use official taxis or local taxi apps, and Glovo for delivery in bigger towns.

  • Water: Tap water is generally safe on the coast.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Zdravo or Dobar dan

  • Please: Molim

  • Thank you: Hvala

  • How much?: Koliko kosta?

  • The check, please: Racun, molim

Nightlife

I only came for a day, so I did not go out here, but the scene is mostly on the coast and strongly seasonal. Summer nights in Budva are loud and late, while Kotor is quiet and atmospheric. Outside July and August, expect calm evenings.

  • When people go out: Bars fill after 10 pm, and in July and August the Budva clubs run until 4 or 5 am. Weekends are busiest, and the rest of the year is quiet.

  • Where the action is: Budva has the busiest strip, with beach clubs and bars in the old town and along the seafront. Kotor has small bars inside the old walls, and Podgorica has a local cafe and bar culture.

  • The music: Turbo-folk and pop alongside house and EDM in Budva, with live acoustic music in Kotor.

  • Good to know: Drinks are cheap compared with Western Europe, and beach clubs may charge entry or a minimum spend in peak season. Dress is casual to smart casual. Take a licensed taxi, agree the price first, and avoid swimming after drinking.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Montenegro is small and friendly, and the coast is the easiest place to meet people. Kotor, Budva and Herceg Novi in the summer, and Podgorica for coworking, have a mix of travelers, expats and locals.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used, though the pool is smaller outside summer. Facebook groups and WhatsApp groups for expats and nomads are the best way to find events, and hostels are good for meeting people.

  • Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and cheek kisses are common among friends. Coffee culture is slow, so plans are relaxed and lateness is tolerated. Splitting the bill is normal, and hosts often insist on paying.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink in the busy summer clubs in Budva, and check prices before ordering to avoid overcharging.

Staying safe

  • Montenegro is safe for travelers. The main risks are narrow, winding mountain roads and summer heat.

  • Expect queues at the Croatia border crossing in summer, and carry your passport.

  • Climb the Kotor fortress early, bring water and wear proper shoes.

Alex Hall
Previous

Monaco
Next

Morocco