Morocco
Morocco is loud, colorful and unlike anywhere else I have been. I went in November 2022 for five days, starting in Marrakech, heading out to camp in the Sahara, and finishing in Casablanca. November is a great month for it, with comfortable days and cold desert nights.
What I did
Flew into Marrakech from Madrid and started in the medina.
Went out to the Sahara and camped under the stars.
Passed through Casablanca at the end of the trip.
Kept it to a quick five days, which is enough for a first taste.
Where to stay
Marrakech medina: Stay in a riad behind a plain door, close to Jemaa el-Fnaa and the souks.
Gueliz: The French-built new town, with cafes and shopping, if you want a calmer base.
Desert camp: Erg Chebbi near Merzouga has the tallest orange dunes. A night in camp is the highlight.
Casablanca: The Corniche in Ain Diab or the art deco downtown are easy places to land.
Getting there and around
Marrakech airport is 15 to 20 minutes from the medina. Agree on a taxi price before getting in, or arrange a pickup through your riad.
Casablanca airport is about 30 to 45 minutes from the city by train or taxi.
Marrakech to Casablanca is about 2.5 to 3 hours by train.
Most desert trips from Marrakech are multi-day tours by minivan over the Atlas Mountains.
Use petit taxis in cities and grand taxis between towns, and agree on the price or meter first.
What to eat
Tagine: Chicken with preserved lemon and olives, or lamb with prunes.
Couscous: Traditionally eaten on Fridays.
Pastilla: A sweet and savory pie dusted with cinnamon.
Harira: A tomato and lentil soup.
What to drink
Tea: Moroccan mint tea, poured from height into small glasses, is offered everywhere. It is sweet and refreshing.
Juices: Fresh orange juice from the carts in Jemaa el-Fnaa is cheap and perfect, and pomegranate and avocado smoothies are also good.
Coffee: Cafe noir and nous nous, a half coffee and half milk, are the usual orders in the cafes of Marrakech and Casablanca.
Wine: Morocco makes decent wine, mostly around Meknes, Essaouira and the Atlas foothills. Look for Domaine de Val d'Argan and the Chateau Roslane. Wine is easiest to find in tourist restaurants and riads.
Beer: Casablanca and Flag Speciale are the local lagers, mostly in licensed restaurants and hotels.
Spirits: Alcohol is not widely available in the medina. Many riads serve it on rooftop terraces.
Don't miss
A night in the Sahara. Watch the dunes at sunrise and sunset, and look up for the stars.
Jemaa el-Fnaa at dusk, then dinner at the food stalls.
Jardin Majorelle, early when it opens.
Ait Benhaddou kasbah on the way to the desert.
The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, one of the few mosques open to non-Muslims.
A hammam afternoon in Marrakech.
Day trips and side trips
Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate on the way to the desert.
The Atlas Mountains and Imlil, or the Ourika Valley, from Marrakech.
An Agafay desert dinner at sunset, if you are short on time.
Rabat from Casablanca.
Essaouira on the coast.
Festivals and events
Gnaoua World Music Festival: Essaouira, usually in June. Trance music and a lively seaside crowd.
Marrakech International Film Festival: Marrakech, usually in late November or early December.
Rose Festival: Kelaa M'Gouna, usually in May. Harvest celebrations in the Dades valley.
Marrakech Popular Arts Festival: Marrakech, usually in summer. Folk music and dance around the old city.
Ramadan and Eid: Nationwide, with the dates shifting each year. The evening iftar meal is a special time to be in the medina.
Mawazine: Rabat, usually in June. One of the largest music festivals in Africa, with international headliners.
Timitar: Agadir, usually in July. Amazigh and world music.
Fes Festival of World Sacred Music: Fes, usually in spring or early summer.
Oasis Festival: Marrakech, usually in spring. A boutique electronic and indie festival.
Tan-Tan Moussem: Tan-Tan, usually in spring. A gathering of nomadic tribes, UNESCO listed.
Music and dance
Gnawa: Spiritual trance music with deep drums and metal castanets. Jemaa el-Fnaa and Essaouira are the best places to hear it.
Andalusian and Chaabi: Classical and popular styles heard at weddings and cafes.
Amazigh music: Heard in the Atlas and in the desert, including around camp fires in the Sahara.
Rai and modern pop: Popular in Casablanca and heard on the radio everywhere.
Dance: Gnawa and Amazigh dance accompany the music in Jemaa el-Fnaa and Essaouira, and many riads and desert camps host evening performances.
Photography spots
Sahara: Dunes at sunrise and sunset for shadows and ridgelines, and the Milky Way on a moonless night. Protect your gear from sand.
Jemaa el-Fnaa: From a rooftop cafe at dusk.
Jardin Majorelle: Early, right when it opens.
Ait Benhaddou: Golden hour from across the river.
Drones: Effectively banned for tourists, and customs often confiscate them on arrival. Leave yours at home if unsure.
My experience
Morocco was intense in the best way. The medina was overwhelming at first, and then I got used to the rhythm. The night in the Sahara was the part I remember most, with a sky darker than I had seen in years. I would recommend it to anyone who wants something completely different from Europe, even on a short trip.
Cost of living
Overall: Marrakech and Casablanca: $$, about 50% cheaper than New York. Marrakech is the more tourist-priced of the two.
Coffee: about $2
Local lunch: about $5
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $40
Beer or cocktail: about $3 / $8
Ride across town: about $3
Mid-range hotel: about $60 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $700 a month in Casablanca's Maarif, $600 in Marrakech's Gueliz
Daily budget: about $40 budget, $90 comfortable, $250+ luxury
Morocco is very affordable, and food and local transport are the biggest bargains. Tours into the desert and riad stays add up, but still cost far less than in Europe. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Fine in riads, hotels and cafes in Marrakech and Casablanca, often 20 to 60 Mbps. It gets patchy in the desert and the mountains.
Coworking and cafes: Best nomad cities are Casablanca for business, coworking and reliable internet, Marrakech for its Gueliz cafes and expat community, and Essaouira or Rabat as quieter alternatives.
Time zone: UTC+1 for most of the year, which is 6 hours ahead of US Eastern in winter and 5 in summer. Morocco shifts to UTC+0 during Ramadan.
Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days visa-free. There is no dedicated nomad visa. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 3 out of 5. Cheap and fascinating, but hassle, language and a thinner nomad scene make it better for a short stay.
Good to know
Language: Moroccan Arabic and Berber are the local languages. French is everywhere on signs and in business. English is growing in tourist areas but is less common elsewhere.
Currency: Moroccan dirham. Get it in the country, and carry cash for the medinas and souks.
Plugs: Type C and E, 220V.
Entry for US citizens: Visa-free for short tourist stays. Check current rules.
Best time to visit: March to May and October to November. Desert nights get cold in November, so pack a warm layer.
Getting around: Trains are good between big cities. Taxis are plentiful, and Uber is not reliable.
Tipping: Expected. About 10 percent at restaurants, and small tips for guides, drivers, porters and camp staff.
SIM/eSIM: Maroc Telecom, Orange and inwi. Cheap prepaid SIMs at the airport, or an eSIM.
Apps: Careem, inDrive and Heetch work in big cities, and Glovo for delivery.
Water: Drink bottled water.
Useful phrases
Hello: Salam alaikum, or Bonjour
Please: Afak, or S'il vous plait
Thank you: Shukran, or Merci
How much?: Bshhal?
The check, please: L'addition, s'il vous plait
Nightlife
Nightlife in Morocco is shaped by a Muslim-majority culture, so alcohol is available but not widespread. The big draw is the street theater of Marrakech after dark, and many people drink on hotel and riad rooftops. It is quite different from the bar-first nights most Americans are used to.
When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9 pm, and clubs in Marrakech and Casablanca get busy after midnight. Weekends are the big nights, and the main squares are lively every evening.
Where the action is: In Marrakech, Jemaa el-Fna is the nightly spectacle and Gueliz has the most bars and clubs. Casablanca has a stronger scene around the Corniche and Maarif, and rooftops and pool bars are popular in both.
The music: Gnawa and Andalusian music in the squares, plus house, pop and Arabic hits in the clubs.
Must-visit: Jemaa el-Fna at night in Marrakech, with food stalls, storytellers and musicians, is worth planning an evening around even if you only watch.
Good to know: Drinks cost more than food, and more again in clubs. Dress modestly in the medina and smart casual for clubs and rooftops. Use petit taxis or a ride app, agree the fare first, avoid medina alleys alone late and ignore anyone offering to guide you for a fee.
Meeting people
Social scene: Moroccans are hospitable and chatty, and tea invitations are common. The easiest places to meet other travelers are riads and hostels in Marrakech, Chefchaouen and Essaouira, plus surf camps near Taghazout.
Apps: Hinge, Tinder and Bumble have limited use outside the big cities. Facebook groups, Meetup, and WhatsApp groups for expats and nomads are more useful in Marrakech.
Etiquette: Greet with a handshake, then place your hand on your heart. Wait for the other person to offer a handshake across genders. Dress modestly, and accept mint tea if you have time. Time is flexible, and the host usually pays.
Stay smart: Be polite but firm with unsolicited guides and anyone who tries to lead you somewhere. Meet new people in public, and agree on prices in advance.
Staying safe
Morocco is generally safe, but expect hustle in the medinas, such as fake guides and "the square is closed" redirects. Say no firmly and keep walking.
Agree on taxi prices before you get in, or insist on the meter.
Dress modestly outside the resort areas.
Ask before photographing people, and expect requests for tips in busy squares.