Poland

Written By Alex Hall

Poland has a beautiful old town, great cheap food and a lot of history. I took a trip in June 2024, going overland from Prague to Krakow. I stayed three nights in the Old Town, did a day tour to Auschwitz-Birkenau, and then continued to Bratislava.

What I did

  • Traveled overland from Prague to Krakow.

  • Stayed three nights in an apartment in the Old Town.

  • Took a guided day tour to Auschwitz-Birkenau, about seven hours with lunch included.

  • Continued on to Bratislava.

Where to stay

  • Old Town: I stayed in an Airbnb on Karmelicka, a few minutes' walk to the Planty park ring and the Main Market Square.

  • Kazimierz: The old Jewish Quarter, with bars, courtyards and street art.

  • Near the main station: Handy for trains, with the Galeria Krakowska mall close by.

Where I stayed

  • Airbnb in Old Town, Kraków: 4.88 on Airbnb (48 reviews). Spacious Old Town Kraków apartment on Karmelicka Street, with private sauna.

Getting there and around

  • Krakow airport is about 20 to 30 minutes from the center. A direct train runs to Krakow Glowny, the main station, or take Uber or Bolt.

  • The Old Town and Kazimierz are walkable, and trams cover the rest.

  • Trains and buses link Krakow to Prague, Warsaw and Bratislava.

What to eat

  • Pierogi: Potato and cheese, meat, or sweet with berries in summer.

  • Zurek: A sour rye soup with sausage and egg.

  • Bigos: Hunter's stew with sauerkraut and meat.

  • Obwarzanek: Krakow's bagel-like bread ring from street carts.

  • Zapiekanka: Open-faced baguette pizza, best at Plac Nowy in Kazimierz.

What to drink

  • Vodka: Zubrowka is bison grass vodka, usually mixed with apple juice as a Szarlotka. Nalewki are flavored vodkas with cherry, quince or honey, and they are everywhere.

  • Beer: Poland has a growing craft beer scene. Zywiec, Tyskie and Lech are the mainstream lagers, and craft pubs in Krakow's Kazimierz pour local IPAs.

  • Mead: Miod pitny is Polish honey mead and a traditional drink worth trying.

  • Wine: Poland is not a wine country, but the Lesser Poland region near Krakow has a few small vineyards.

  • Coffee: Krakow has a strong cafe culture. Many cafes serve good flat whites and cake.

  • Tea: Herbata is served in a glass, often with lemon.

Don't miss

  • Auschwitz-Birkenau. It is a memorial, so go with a guide and follow the rules about photography.

  • The Main Market Square, with the Cloth Hall and St. Mary's Basilica and its hourly bugle call.

  • Wawel Castle and Cathedral.

  • Kazimierz and Schindler's Factory.

  • The Rynek Underground museum below the square.

  • A bar mleczny, the cheap milk bar canteens, for classic Polish food.

Day trips and side trips

  • The Wieliczka Salt Mine.

  • Auschwitz-Birkenau, about a seven hour day with transport.

  • Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains.

  • Warsaw by train, if you have extra days.

Festivals and events

  • Wianki: Krakow, usually in June. Midsummer on the Vistula with concerts and floating wreaths.

  • Krakow Film Festival: Krakow, usually in late May or early June.

  • Juwenalia: Krakow, usually in May. A student festival with concerts.

  • Jewish Culture Festival: Kazimierz, Krakow, usually in late June or July.

  • Christmas Markets: Krakow Main Square, usually from late November through December.

  • Open'er Festival: Gdynia, usually in early July. One of Europe's biggest music festivals, by the Baltic Sea.

  • Audioriver: Plock, usually in July. A popular electronic music festival.

  • Tauron Nowa Muzyka: Katowice, usually in summer. Electronic and experimental music.

  • Pol'and'Rock: Czarna Wies, usually in early August. A huge free rock festival.

  • Boze Cialo: Corpus Christi processions in Krakow, usually in June.

  • Unsound: Krakow, usually in October. An experimental electronic festival.

Music and dance

  • Chopin and classical: Piano recitals in Krakow and Warsaw are a lovely way to spend an evening.

  • Jazz: Krakow has many jazz clubs, and Poland has a strong jazz tradition.

  • Folk and klezmer: Kazimierz in Krakow has klezmer evenings.

  • Electronic and club: Krakow and Warsaw have strong techno and house scenes, plus the Audioriver festival.

  • Dance: The polonaise and the krakowiak are the classic folk dances, and you can see folk shows in Krakow. Clubs in Krakow and Warsaw are where people go dancing.

Photography spots

  • Main Market Square: The Cloth Hall and St. Mary's at blue hour, or early morning for an empty square.

  • Wawel: From the Vistula riverbank at sunset.

  • Kazimierz: Courtyards, street art and Plac Nowy at night.

  • Auschwitz-Birkenau: Photography is allowed in most outdoor areas but not everywhere inside. Shoot respectfully.

  • Drones: EU rules apply, central Krakow and Wawel are restricted, and flying over Auschwitz is not allowed. Check current drone rules.

My experience

Krakow felt warm and easy, and the Old Town is the kind of place you can wander for hours. The day at Auschwitz-Birkenau was sobering, and I would recommend it with a good guide and some quiet time afterward. I would send anyone who loves history, walkable old cities and cheap, hearty food.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Krakow, Warsaw and Wroclaw: $$, about 50% cheaper than New York. Warsaw runs a little higher, and Wroclaw is the cheapest of the three.

  • Coffee: about $3

  • Local lunch: about $8

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $55

  • Beer or cocktail: about $2.50 / $6

  • Ride across town: about $5

  • Mid-range hotel: about $80 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,000 a month in Krakow's Old Town or Kazimierz, $1,200 in Warsaw, $900 in Wroclaw

  • Daily budget: about $45 budget, $100 comfortable, $220+ luxury in Krakow, a little more in Warsaw

Poland is one of the best value countries in Europe. Food, beer and transport are cheap, and Krakow is excellent for the money. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Very good. Fiber is widespread, and apartments, hotels and cafes usually have fast, reliable internet.

  • Coworking and cafes: Best nomad cities are Krakow for its cafes and character, Warsaw for the most coworking and business, and Wroclaw for lower costs and a lively student scene.

  • Time zone: UTC+1, 6 hours ahead of US Eastern (5 or 7 for a few weeks around clock changes).

  • Visa for longer stays: Poland is in the Schengen Area, so US citizens get 90 days in any 180. There is no dedicated nomad visa. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 4 out of 5. Cheap, safe, fast internet and good food, with a smaller nomad scene than Lisbon or Barcelona.

Good to know

  • Language: Polish. English is common with younger people and in tourist areas, and less so with older people and in small shops.

  • Currency: Polish zloty. Cards and contactless work almost everywhere, and you should decline dynamic currency conversion.

  • Plugs: Type E (F fits), 230V.

  • Entry for US citizens: Poland is in Schengen, and US citizens are visa-free for short stays. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: May, June and September, or December for the Christmas markets.

  • Getting around: Uber, Bolt and FreeNow work, and trams and trains are good.

  • Tipping: About 10 percent at restaurants. Careful: saying dziekuje when handing over cash can mean keep the change.

  • SIM/eSIM: Orange, Play, Plus and T-Mobile, or an eSIM. EU roaming applies.

  • Apps: Uber, Bolt and FreeNow for rides, and Wolt, Glovo and Uber Eats for delivery.

  • Water: Tap water is safe to drink.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Dzien dobry (formal) or Czesc (casual)

  • Please: Prosze

  • Thank you: Dziekuje

  • How much?: Ile kosztuje?

  • The check, please: Poprosze rachunek

Nightlife

Poland goes out hard and cheaply. Krakow is the main nightlife city, with cellar bars, candlelit pubs and a bohemian scene in Kazimierz. It is a pub-crawl culture with a lot of vodka, and it costs far less than most American visitors expect.

  • When people go out: Bars open in the afternoon and fill from about 9 pm, and clubs run until 4 or 5 am on Friday and Saturday.

  • Where the action is: In Krakow, the Old Town has cellar bars and clubs around the main square, and Kazimierz is the more bohemian quarter, with live music and Plac Nowy as its nightlife hub.

  • The music: Pop and house in the clubs, with live jazz, folk and indie in Kazimierz.

  • Good to know: Drinks are cheap by Western European standards, many bars are free to enter, and clubs may charge a small cover. Dress is casual to smart casual. Use Bolt, Uber or a licensed taxi, and watch for overpriced drinks in tourist-targeted clubs near the main square.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Poles are reserved at first but friendly once you start talking, and English is common with younger people. Warsaw and Krakow have coworking spaces, language exchanges and a lively international crowd.

  • Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are all used. Meetup, Facebook groups, Bumble BFF and expat or nomad WhatsApp groups are good for events.

  • Etiquette: A firm handshake is standard. Be on time, since punctuality matters. Plans are usually made ahead through a message, and splitting the bill is normal.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public places, watch your drink, and check prices on the menu in tourist bars before ordering.

Staying safe

  • Poland is very safe. Normal city awareness is enough.

  • Watch for overpriced drinks at some Old Town clubs with street promoters.

  • Auschwitz-Birkenau is a long, mostly outdoor day, so bring water, comfortable shoes and a layer.

Alex Hall
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