Portugal

Portugal is easy, sunny and good value by Western European standards. I spent over a month based in Lisbon in fall 2022, then came back in July 2024 for a few days in Faro, a camper van road trip along the Algarve and another week in Lisbon.

What I did

• Based in Lisbon for more than a month in October and November 2022.

• Flew to Ponta Delgada in the Azores for a short island trip from Lisbon.

• Picked up a camper van in Faro and drove the Algarve coast for three nights in July 2024.

• Walked the old town of Albufeira and spent time around the Galé beach area.

• Spent a week in Lisbon's Baixa district, with two trips to LX Factory in Alcântara.

Where to stay

• Baixa, Lisbon: flat, walkable and central. I stayed in an Airbnb on Rua Augusta with a balcony. It is touristy and loud by day, but Chiado and Alfama are a short walk uphill.

• Príncipe Real or Chiado: quieter, with boutiques, gardens and good cafes.

• Alfama: the old Moorish quarter, best if you want fado and narrow streets.

• Faro centro: compact and walkable, right by the old town and a good gateway to the Ria Formosa lagoon.

• Ponta Delgada: the best base on São Miguel for day loops around the island.

Where I stayed

• Airbnb in Baixa, Lisbon: 4.87 on Airbnb (387 reviews). New apartment with balcony on Rua Augusta in the heart of Lisbon.

• Dona Simone Boutique Suites & Studios, Centro, Faro: 8.8/10 on Booking.com (1,014 reviews). Central Faro B&B-style suites and studios, near the old town and 12km from the airport.

Getting there and around

• Lisbon airport: close to the center. Take the red metro line, or a ride app in about 20 to 30 minutes.

• Faro airport: about 10 minutes to the center by ride app, and buses run too.

• Lisbon to the Algarve: direct trains reach Faro, and Rede Expressos and FlixBus cover the coast.

• Azores: Ponta Delgada's airport is next to town. Rent a car on São Miguel, since you need one to see the island.

What to eat

• Pastel de nata, fresh from the oven, in Lisbon.

• Bacalhau, salt cod done a hundred ways. Bacalhau à Brás is the classic.

• Bifana, a simple pork sandwich you will find everywhere in Lisbon.

• Cataplana, the Algarve seafood stew cooked in a copper pot.

• Grilled sardines and polvo à lagareiro, roasted octopus with potatoes.

What to drink

• Wine: Portugal is a superb wine country and the bottles are a bargain. Try crisp vinho verde from the north, reds from the Douro and Alentejo, and the Dão. The Douro Valley is the big wine trip, with Porto as the base.

• Port: tawny and ruby port, ideally tasted in the cellars across the river from Porto, or at a quiet bar in Lisbon.

• Spirits: ginjinha, a sour cherry liqueur sold by the shot in tiny bars near Rossio. Say "com elas" to get it with a cherry.

• Cocktails: a port and tonic on ice is the easy summer drink, and Lisbon's rooftop bars are good at sunset.

• Beer: Sagres and Super Bock, served cold in small glasses called imperiais.

• Coffee and tea: a bica (espresso) at the counter, and a galão for something milky. On São Miguel, visit the Gorreana tea plantation, the oldest in Europe.

Don't miss

• Sunset from a Lisbon miradouro such as Senhora do Monte or Santa Catarina.

• A day trip to Sintra for Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira.

• Belém for the monastery, the tower and pastries.

• The Algarve coast: Benagil, Ponta da Piedade and Cabo de São Vicente.

• Sete Cidades and Furnas on São Miguel in the Azores.

• LX Factory for shops, food and a view of the 25 de Abril Bridge.

Day trips and side trips

• Sintra from Lisbon for the palaces.

• Tavira or Olhão from Faro for seafood and the lagoon.

• A Ria Formosa boat to Ilha Deserta or Culatra.

• Cascais and the Guincho coast from Lisbon.

Festivals and events

• Boom Festival: Idanha-a-Nova, every two years in July or August. A legendary psychedelic and electronic gathering by a lake.

• Rock in Rio Lisboa: Lisbon, every two years, usually in June. The European edition of the giant Brazilian festival.

• Santo António: Lisbon, usually in June. Street parties, grilled sardines and decorated neighborhoods, especially Alfama.

• São João: Porto, usually in late June. A big night of street festivals, fireworks and plastic hammers.

• NOS Alive: Oeiras near Lisbon, usually in July. A major music festival.

• Web Summit: Lisbon, usually in November. A huge tech conference that fills the city.

• Carnaval: Torres Vedras and other towns, usually in February or March.

• MEO Sudoeste: Zambujeira do Mar, usually in August. A big beach music and electronic festival on the Alentejo coast.

• Marés Vivas: Vila Nova de Gaia near Porto, usually in July. Pop and rock by the sea.

• Paredes de Coura: usually in August. An indie and rock festival in the north.

Music and dance

• Fado: Portugal's soulful, melancholy music. Hear it live in Alfama and Bairro Alto in Lisbon, or in Coimbra for the student version.

• Pop and indie: Lisbon has a lively live scene, with small venues around Cais do Sodré and LX Factory.

• Electronic: Lisbon's club scene leans house and techno, and the summer festivals are big for it.

• Folk: look for traditional guitarra portuguesa and local dance at summer village festivals.

• Dance: kizomba and semba, brought from Angola, are popular in Lisbon, with classes and social nights around the city. Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré are the main areas for a night out dancing.

Photography spots

• Lisbon miradouros at golden hour: Senhora do Monte, Santa Catarina and Portas do Sol.

• Praça do Comércio and the Rua Augusta arch at blue hour.

• The 25 de Abril Bridge from LX Factory at sunset.

• Ponta da Piedade in Lagos at sunrise.

• Drones: EU rules apply, with no-fly zones around Lisbon airport and much of central Lisbon.

My experience

Lisbon works as a long-stay base: walkable, sunny and relaxed, with a balcony on Rua Augusta making it feel settled. The camper van on the Algarve was the most fun part. I would recommend Portugal to nomads, first-timers and anyone who wants Europe without the price tag.

Cost of living

• Overall: Lisbon, Porto and Faro: $$$, about 30% cheaper than New York. Lisbon is the priciest, Porto is a little lower, and the Algarve spikes in summer.

• Coffee: about $2

• Local lunch: about $12

• Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $80

• Beer or cocktail: about $2.50 / $6

• Ride across town: about $7

• Mid-range hotel: about $110 a night

• Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $1,500 a month in Lisbon's Alcantara or Principe Real, $1,200 in Porto's Cedofeita

• Daily budget: about $70 budget, $150 comfortable, $350+ luxury in Lisbon, about 15% less in Porto

Portugal is good value by Western European standards, though Lisbon rent has climbed a lot. The Algarve is expensive in summer, and smaller towns and the north are cheaper. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Very good. Fiber is common in Lisbon and Faro, and cafes are fine for video calls.

• Coworking and cafes: Best nomad cities are Lisbon, where I based for over a month in 2022, with coworking spaces like Second Home and Impact Hub, Porto for lower costs and a creative scene, and Faro or Lagos in the Algarve for beach life.

• Time zone: UTC+0, 5 hours ahead of US Eastern (4 or 6 for a few weeks around clock changes).

• Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days in any 180 under Schengen rules. Portugal offers the D8 Digital Nomad Visa for longer stays. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 4.5 out of 5. Sun, community, safety and good internet, with rising prices.

Good to know

• Language: Portuguese. English is widely spoken in Lisbon and the Algarve. Spanish gets you partway, but locals appreciate an attempt at Portuguese.

• Currency: euro. Cards and Apple Pay work almost everywhere, though some small tascas are cash only.

• Plugs: Type C and F, 230V. US plugs need an adapter.

• Entry for US citizens: visa-free for short stays under Schengen rules. Check current rules before you fly.

• Best time to visit: April to June and September to October. July and August are hot and busy on the Algarve.

• Getting around: Uber, Bolt and FreeNow work in Lisbon and the Algarve. Trains link the main cities.

• Tipping: not expected. Round up or leave 5 to 10 percent for good service.

• SIM/eSIM: an Airalo or Holafly eSIM is easy. MEO, Vodafone and NOS sell prepaid SIMs, and EU roaming covers the rest of Europe.

• Apps: Uber, Bolt and FreeNow for rides. Uber Eats, Glovo and Bolt Food for delivery.

• Water: tap water is safe to drink.

Useful phrases

• Hello: Olá or Bom dia

• Thank you: Obrigado

• Please: Por favor

• How much?: Quanto custa?

• The check please: A conta, por favor

Nightlife

Portugal goes out late and stays out late. Lisbon is the center, with tiny bars spilling into the streets of Bairro Alto and a livelier club scene around Cais do Sodre. Fado gives the city a more intimate evening option, and the Algarve has its own party strip in Albufeira.

• When people go out: Dinner is around 8 or 9 pm, bars start filling at 11 pm, and clubs run from 1 am until 6 am. Thursday to Saturday are the big nights.

• Where the action is: In Lisbon, Bairro Alto is the classic street-drinking scene, Cais do Sodre has Pink Street and the clubs, and LX Factory and Principe Real are the trendier picks. In the Algarve, Albufeira's Strip is the big party area and Faro is smaller.

• The music: House, techno and Latin sounds in the clubs, and live fado in the old quarters.

• Must-visit: An evening of fado in a small house in Alfama or Mouraria is the one thing worth planning around in Lisbon.

• Good to know: Many bars and fado houses charge no cover, though dinner is bundled in at some fado venues, and clubs may charge a cover. Drinks are cheap for Western Europe. Dress is casual, and smart casual for top clubs. Pickpockets work Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodre, so keep valuables close, and refuse street offers of drugs.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Lisbon and Porto are among the easiest places in Europe to meet people, with a big nomad scene, coworking spaces, language exchanges and surf schools. Locals are polite and friendly, and English is widely spoken.

• Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are all used. Meetup, Bumble BFF, Facebook groups and WhatsApp nomad groups are very active, especially in Lisbon.

• Etiquette: A handshake or two cheek kisses among friends is normal. Plans can start late, and dinner is often after 8 pm. Splitting the bill is usual.

• Stay smart: Meet in public, watch your drink in busy nightlife areas like Bairro Alto, and be cautious with anyone offering street deals.

Staying safe

• Very safe overall. Pickpockets work Tram 28 and the Baixa and Rossio area, so keep bags zipped.

• The bread, olives and cheese put on the table are not free. Send them back if you do not want them.

• On the Azores and Algarve cliffs, weather and surf change fast, so stay back from edges.