Romania

Bucharest is the city most people skip, and it is worth four days. Interwar buildings sit next to communist-era blocks, and the center is easy to walk. I went in June 2024 on the way from Vienna to Athens.

What I did

• Spent four nights in central Bucharest in June 2024.

• Based in a midtown flat near Piața Romană with a balcony and a view.

• Used the central location to get around the city on foot and by ride-hailing.

Where to stay

• Piața Romană and Universitate: central, with Calea Victoriei, the Athenaeum and Revolution Square all within walking distance. I stayed in an Airbnb here.

• Old Town (Lipscani): restaurants and bars, best for a short stay, but loud at night.

• Dorobanți and Floreasca: quieter, leafier and good for cafes.

Where I stayed

• Airbnb in Midtown, Bucharest: 4.92 on Airbnb (101 reviews). Three-bedroom with a view balcony between central Bucharest and the Old Town.

Getting there and around

• Airport: Henri Coandă (Otopeni) is north of the city, 30 to 60 minutes to the center by ride app. A train to Gara de Nord and the 783 express bus also run.

• In Bucharest: the metro covers the main routes and ride apps handle the rest.

• Between cities: trains and buses reach Brașov and Transylvania.

What to eat

• Sarmale, cabbage rolls served with polenta and sour cream.

• Mici, grilled sausages with mustard and a beer.

• Ciorbă, the sour soups. Ciorbă de burtă and ciorbă de perișoare are the classics.

• Papanași, fried doughnuts with sour cream and jam.

• Covrigi, soft pretzels from any corner bakery.

What to drink

• Wine: Romania makes more good wine than most visitors expect. Look for Fetească Neagră (red), Fetească Albă and Tămâioasă Românească (whites). Dealu Mare, north of Bucharest, is the closest wine region for a day out.

• Spirits: țuică and pălincă, strong plum brandies. Locals drink them as a starter, so sip slowly.

• Beer: Ursus and Timișoreana are the big names. Caru' cu Bere in the Old Town is the classic beer hall, and mici with a cold beer is the standard pairing.

• Cocktails: the Old Town (Lipscani) has dozens of cocktail bars, and Bucharest has a good rooftop scene in summer.

• Coffee: specialty cafes are everywhere in Bucharest, especially around Dorobanți and Calea Victoriei.

Don't miss

• The Palace of the Parliament. Book ahead and bring your passport.

• Caru' cu Bere beer hall in the Old Town.

• Cărturești Carusel, the white multi-level bookstore.

• The Romanian Athenaeum and a walk down Calea Victoriei.

• Stavropoleos Monastery.

• A day trip to Brașov, Bran Castle and Peleș Castle.

Day trips and side trips

• Brașov, Bran Castle and Peleș Castle.

Festivals and events

• Untold: Cluj-Napoca, usually in August. One of the biggest electronic music festivals in Europe.

• Electric Castle: near Cluj-Napoca, usually in July. A music festival held at Bánffy Castle.

• Mărțișor: countrywide, on March 1. A spring tradition of red and white tokens.

• Christmas markets: Bucharest and Sibiu, usually from late November through December.

• Neversea: Constanța, usually in July. A beach electronic and pop festival on the Black Sea.

• Beach Please: Costinești, usually in July. An electronic music festival on the coast.

• Summer Well: Buftea near Bucharest, usually in August. An indie and pop festival.

Music and dance

• Folk and Lăutari: traditional Romani violin and accordion music, heard at weddings and in traditional restaurants.

• Electronic: Romania has a strong minimal techno scene, and Bucharest clubs reflect it.

• Classical: the Romanian Athenaeum is the place for a concert in a beautiful hall.

• Pop and rock: Old Town bars and live music pubs host bands most nights.

• Dance: the hora is a traditional circle dance, seen at weddings and village festivals. For a night out, Bucharest's Old Town and its clubs are where people go dancing.

Photography spots

• The Palace of the Parliament from the end of Bulevardul Unirii at sunset.

• Cărturești Carusel on a weekday morning, when the white interior is quiet.

• The Romanian Athenaeum at blue hour.

• The Old Town in the rain, with wet cobblestones and neon.

• Drones: strict rules and permits apply, and central Bucharest is restricted.

My experience

Bucharest is an odd, interesting mix of grand interwar buildings and big communist blocks. I liked how central the flat was, and how easy it was to get around. I also made it out to Bran Castle in Transylvania, the one everyone knows as Dracula's Castle. I would recommend it to anyone who likes cities with some grit and good food.

Cost of living

• Overall: Bucharest and Cluj-Napoca: $$, about 55% cheaper than New York. Brasov runs a little higher in season.

• Coffee: about $3

• Local lunch: about $8

• Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $55

• Beer or cocktail: about $3 / $8

• Ride across town: about $4

• Mid-range hotel: about $80 a night

• Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $700 a month in Bucharest's Dorobanti or Floreasca, $600 in Cluj-Napoca's center

• Daily budget: about $50 budget, $110 comfortable, $250+ luxury in Bucharest; Cluj is about 10% less

Bucharest is one of the best values in the EU. Eating out and getting around cost very little, and only good hotels and Airbnbs in the center push the bill up. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Fiber internet is among the fastest in Europe, often 300 Mbps or more in apartments. Hotels and cafes are reliable, and power cuts are rare.

• Coworking and cafes: Bucharest is the main hub with Impact Hub and a strong cafe scene around Calea Victoriei and Floreasca. Cluj-Napoca is the best second pick, a student and tech city with many laptop-friendly cafes. Brasov is a pretty option with a small scene.

• Time zone: UTC+2 (UTC+3 in summer), 7 hours ahead of US Eastern (6 hours during the brief weeks when daylight saving dates differ).

• Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days visa-free in any 180 days in the Schengen Area. Romania has joined Schengen, so that clock is shared with neighboring countries. Romania has a digital nomad visa, but check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 4 out of 5, cheap, fast internet and an easy city, with a smaller nomad community than Lisbon or Barcelona.

Good to know

• Language: Romanian, a Romance language close enough to Spanish and Italian to read signs. English is common with younger people in Bucharest, less so elsewhere.

• Currency: Romanian leu. Cards work widely in Bucharest.

• Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: visa-free for short stays under Schengen rules, which Romania joined in 2025. Check current rules before you fly.

• Best time to visit: May, June and September. Summer in Bucharest is hot.

• Getting around: Uber and Bolt both work well, and the metro is handy.

• Tipping: about 10 percent at restaurants.

• SIM/eSIM: Orange, Vodafone and Digi sell prepaid SIMs, or use an eSIM. EU roaming applies.

• Apps: Uber and Bolt for rides, and Glovo, Bolt Food and Wolt for delivery.

• Water: tap water in Bucharest is generally fine to drink, though many visitors stick with bottled.

Useful phrases

• Hello: Bună ziua, or Salut when casual

• Thank you: Mulțumesc

• Please: Vă rog

• How much?: Cât costă?

• The check please: Nota, vă rog

Nightlife

Romanians go out in a relaxed, social way, with long evenings on terraces and in beer gardens before the clubs fill up. Bucharest has a lively scene that feels busier and cheaper than most Americans expect from a European capital.

• When people go out: Dinner is around 8, bars fill after 10 and clubs run until 4 or later. Friday and Saturday are the big nights.

• Where the action is: In Bucharest, the Old Town (Lipscani) is the busiest area, with Floreasca and Calea Victoriei for cocktail bars and rooftops. Cluj-Napoca has a student scene.

• The music: Pop, house and commercial dance in the clubs, with live bands and DJs in the bars.

• Good to know: Covers are small or free at bars and modest at clubs, and drinks are cheaper than in Western Europe. Dress is smart casual, and bigger clubs can be selective at the door. Use Bolt or Uber for rides and check menu prices in Old Town bars before ordering.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Bucharest is the best city for it. Cafes around Calea Victoriei and Floreasca, Impact Hub coworking and the Old Town bar streets are where people start conversations. Cluj-Napoca has a student and tech crowd.

• Apps: Bumble, Tinder and Hinge are used in Bucharest. Meetup events and Facebook groups for expats and nomads are the easiest way into a group.

• Etiquette: A handshake is standard. Be on time for business and dinners, a little slack is normal socially. Plans are often made by WhatsApp or Instagram. Splitting the bill is common among friends.

• Stay smart: Meet in public places at first, and be wary of unofficial taxis and bars that add surprise charges.

Staying safe

• Generally safe. Skip unlicensed taxis at the airport and use a ride app.

• Stray dogs are less common than they used to be, but keep your distance in outer areas.

• Watch your pockets in crowded metro stations.