Turkey
Turkey is two trips in one: Istanbul for history and food, Cappadocia for the landscape. I went in August 2023 for about five days, flying from Tirana to Istanbul and on to Cappadocia for a hot air balloon at sunrise.
What I did
Based in Galata in Istanbul, the old Genoese quarter around Galata Tower.
Flew from Istanbul to Cappadocia.
Took a hot air balloon flight at sunrise over Cappadocia.
Flew back through Istanbul and on to Barcelona.
Where to stay
Galata and Karaköy, Istanbul: steep streets, cafes, design shops and rooftop bars, walkable to İstiklal Avenue and across the Galata Bridge to Sultanahmet. I stayed in an Airbnb in Galata.
Sultanahmet: the best for first-timers who want the big sights on foot.
Kadıköy: on the Asian side, with a food market and a local feel.
Göreme, Cappadocia: the hub for balloons and tours, with many cave hotels.
Uçhisar, Cappadocia: quieter, with castle views.
Where I stayed
Airbnb in Galata, Istanbul: 4.88 on Airbnb (102 reviews). Classic Istanbul three-bedroom next to the Galata Tower.
Getting there and around
Istanbul airports: IST is on the European side, 45 to 75 minutes from Galata. The M11 metro and Havaist buses are cheaper options. SAW is on the Asian side and can take over an hour to reach, so plan around the airport.
In Istanbul: trams, metro, ferries and the funicular all use the Istanbulkart. Bosphorus ferries are the best cheap tour in the city.
To Cappadocia: fly to Nevşehir or Kayseri. Hotels in Göreme usually arrange shuttles.
What to eat
Kebabs, such as İskender and Adana.
A Turkish breakfast with cheeses, olives, eggs, honey and simit.
Balık ekmek, grilled fish sandwiches by the Galata Bridge.
Meze at a meyhane in Beyoğlu.
Testi kebabı, the pottery kebab, in Cappadocia.
Mantı, small dumplings with yogurt, and baklava and künefe for dessert.
What to drink
Tea and coffee: çay in small tulip glasses is constant, and Turkish coffee is thick and strong, often served with a glass of water.
Spirits: rakı, the aniseed spirit, mixed with water and drunk with meze at a meyhane. It is the classic Istanbul evening.
Wine: Turkey has a long wine history. Cappadocia is a wine region, with wineries around Ürgüp and Avanos. Look for Öküzgözü and Boğazkere reds, and Emir whites.
Beer: Efes is the national lager, easy to find at rooftop bars in Galata and Karaköy.
Ayran: a salted yogurt drink that goes well with kebabs.
Juices: fresh pomegranate and orange juice from street carts.
Don't miss
A hot air balloon flight at sunrise in Cappadocia.
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern.
The Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar.
A Bosphorus ferry at sunset.
Göreme Open Air Museum and an underground city.
A hamam, such as Çemberlitaş or Kılıç Ali Paşa.
Day trips and side trips
Kadıköy and Moda on the Asian side of Istanbul.
Derinkuyu or Kaymaklı underground city from Cappadocia.
Ihlara Valley hike.
Avanos for pottery.
Festivals and events
Istanbul Tulip Festival: Istanbul, usually in April. Parks full of tulips.
Istanbul Jazz Festival: usually in June or July. Concerts across the city.
Ramadan and Eid: countrywide, with dates set by the lunar calendar. Iftar meals at sunset and a festive holiday after.
Republic Day: countrywide, on October 29, with flags and fireworks.
Mevlana Festival: Konya, usually in December. Whirling dervish ceremonies.
Istanbul Music Festival: usually in June. Classical concerts in historic venues.
Zeytinli Rock Festival: Edremit coast, usually in July. A beach rock festival.
Bosphorus electronic events: Istanbul has a strong house and techno scene, with open air parties on the water in summer.
Kurban Bayramı and Şeker Bayramı: countrywide, with dates set by the lunar calendar. Family holidays that move across the year.
Music and dance
Turkish classical and folk: saz and oud music, heard in meyhanes and cultural centers.
Arabesk and pop: played everywhere, from taxis to nightclubs.
Sufi music: whirling dervish ceremonies in Istanbul and Konya.
Electronic: Istanbul's club scene is big, with Karaköy and Beyoğlu busy at night.
Dance: the whirling dervish sema in Istanbul and Konya is a spiritual ceremony, and halay is the circle folk dance at weddings. Dinner shows in Istanbul often include belly dance and folk dance.
Photography spots
Cappadocia at sunrise, with balloons from the hills above Göreme or hotel rooftops in Göreme and Uçhisar.
Galata Tower from the narrow streets around it.
The mosque skyline from the Galata Bridge or a ferry at sunset.
Balat's colorful houses in soft morning light.
Drones: registration and permits are required, and much of Istanbul is restricted.
My experience
The balloon flight at sunrise was the highlight, and Galata was a great base in Istanbul. Five days is short for Turkey, but it covered two very different places. I would recommend it to photographers especially.
Cost of living
Overall: Istanbul, Izmir and Antalya: $$, about 50% cheaper than New York. Cappadocia hotels run higher.
Coffee: about $3
Local lunch: about $8
Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $65
Beer or cocktail: about $5 / $9
Ride across town: about $6
Mid-range hotel: about $100 a night
Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $900 a month in Istanbul's Cihangir or Kadikoy, $550 in Izmir's Alsancak, $500 in Antalya's Konyaalti
Daily budget: about $55 budget, $120 comfortable, $280+ luxury in Istanbul; Izmir and Antalya are about 20% less
Turkey is good value, though prices in Istanbul tourist areas and Cappadocia hotels have risen. Inflation moves prices quickly, so numbers shift. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Wi-Fi is decent in Istanbul, often 50 to 100 Mbps, and cafes are good for work. Cappadocia is slower. Some VPN and website restrictions apply.
Coworking and cafes: Istanbul is the main hub, with cafes in Cihangir, Karakoy and Kadikoy and coworking at Kolektif House and Workinton. Izmir is relaxed and cheaper with a good cafe culture. Antalya suits sunny winters with a small expat scene.
Time zone: UTC+3 all year, 7 hours ahead of US Eastern (8 hours when the US is on standard time).
Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 90 days visa-free in any 180 days. Turkey offers a digital nomad visa on paper, but check current rules.
Nomad rating: 4 out of 5, cheap, rich in food and sights, and lively, though inflation and bureaucracy take some patience.
Good to know
Language: Turkish. English is common in tourist areas of Istanbul and Cappadocia, less so elsewhere.
Currency: Turkish lira. The rate moves fast. Cards work almost everywhere in Istanbul, and cash helps for small shops and tips.
Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: rules have changed in recent years. Check current rules before you fly.
Best time to visit: April to June and September to October. August is hot and crowded, but balloons run reliably in summer.
Getting around: trams, metro and ferries in Istanbul, and short flights to Cappadocia.
Tipping: 5 to 10 percent at restaurants, often in cash. Round up for taxis.
SIM/eSIM: Turkcell, Vodafone TR and Türk Telekom. Foreign phones on a local SIM can be blocked after a period unless registered, so an eSIM is easiest for short trips.
Apps: Uber books licensed taxis in Istanbul, and BiTaksi is the local taxi app. Yemeksepeti, Getir and Trendyol Go for delivery.
Water: drink bottled water.
Useful phrases
Hello: Merhaba
Thank you: Teşekkür ederim
Please: Lütfen
How much?: Ne kadar?
The check please: Hesap, lütfen
Nightlife
Turkish nightlife is social and unhurried. The best nights are long meze dinners with rakı, followed by rooftops and live music in Istanbul, and it is much quieter outside the big cities.
When people go out: Dinner is late, around 8 or 9. Bars fill from 10 and clubs run until 4 or 5. Thursday through Saturday are the big nights.
Where the action is: In Istanbul, Beyoğlu is the center, with Istiklal Avenue, Galata and Cihangir for bars and live music. Karaköy has cocktail bars and rooftops, Kadıköy on the Asian side has a local student scene and Ortaköy has waterfront venues. Cappadocia is quiet, with cave restaurants and terraces.
The music: Turkish pop, live folk and fasıl music in taverns, and house and electronic in the clubs.
Must-visit: Spend an evening in a traditional meyhane, a tavern with meze, rakı and live music, which is the most authentic Istanbul night out.
Good to know: Many bars have no cover, and clubs charge a cover with pricier drinks. Dress is smart casual and fashionable, especially in Beyoğlu. Be wary of anyone who invites you to a bar and then presents a huge bill, a known scam around Taksim, and agree prices before ordering.
Meeting people
Social scene: Istanbul is the best city for it. Cafes and rooftop bars in Galata and Karaköy, language exchanges and coworking spaces are good starting points. Locals are hospitable and often start the conversation.
Apps: Tinder, Bumble and Hinge are used in Istanbul. Meetup, Couchsurfing hangouts and Facebook expat groups work for friends.
Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and a cheek kiss between friends is common. Accepting tea is polite. Be punctual, though social plans run loose. The person who invites often pays, so offer to split.
Stay smart: Meet in public and watch your drink. Be wary of anyone who invites you to a bar and then presents a very large tab, a known scam near Taksim.
Staying safe
Generally safe.
Watch for scams in Sultanahmet and Taksim, such as the shoe shine accident or a friendly stranger who offers to take you to a bar.
Agree on taxi fares first, or use Uber or BiTaksi.