United Arab Emirates

The United Arab Emirates is a place of extremes: the tallest building on earth, desert dunes a short drive from the city, and luxury everywhere you look. I went to Dubai on a work trip around New Year 2020, and it was a fascinating first look at the Middle East.

What I did

  • Traveled to Dubai for work around New Year 2020.

  • Used Dubai as the hub for the rest of the work trip.

  • Saw the Burj Khalifa and Downtown Dubai.

My experience

Dubai feels like the future built in the desert. It is clean, safe and over the top in the best way. Being there for work, I did not get to do nearly everything, so I would love to go back for the desert and the beach clubs, and to see Abu Dhabi for the first time.

Where to stay

  • Downtown Dubai: next to the Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall and the fountains.

  • Dubai Marina and JBR: waterfront towers, the beach and restaurants.

  • Palm Jumeirah: beach resorts and beach clubs.

  • Old Dubai (Deira and Al Fahidi): souks, the creek and the most character.

Getting there and around

  • Flights: Dubai International is one of the busiest airports in the world and a major hub for Emirates.

  • Airport to city: the Dubai Metro Red Line runs from the airport to Downtown and the Marina.

  • Getting around: the Metro is clean and cheap. Taxis, Uber and Careem are everywhere and affordable.

  • Abu Dhabi: about 90 minutes by car or bus.

What to eat

  • Shawarma and falafel from a local spot.

  • Emirati dishes like machboos (spiced rice with meat) and luqaimat (sweet dumplings).

  • Lebanese, Persian and Indian food, all excellent here.

  • Fresh dates and camel milk chocolate.

What to drink

  • Coffee: Arabic coffee (gahwa) with dates is the classic welcome.

  • Juices: fresh juices and mocktails everywhere.

  • Alcohol: served in licensed hotels, bars and beach clubs only, and it is expensive.

  • Rooftop bars: the views over the skyline and the Marina are the reason to go.

Don't miss

  • The top of the Burj Khalifa, ideally at sunset.

  • A desert safari with dune bashing and a camp dinner.

  • The Dubai Fountain show at night.

  • An abra boat across Dubai Creek and the gold and spice souks.

  • The Museum of the Future.

  • The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi.

Day trips and side trips

  • Abu Dhabi for the Grand Mosque and the Louvre Abu Dhabi.

  • Hatta for mountains and kayaking.

  • Hot air balloon ride over the desert at sunrise.

Festivals and events

  • New Year's Eve at the Burj Khalifa: December 31. One of the biggest fireworks shows in the world.

  • Abu Dhabi Grand Prix: Yas Marina, usually late November or December. The Formula 1 season finale.

  • Dubai Shopping Festival: usually December to January, with deals, concerts and fireworks.

  • Untold Dubai: usually February. A huge electronic music festival.

  • Ramadan and Eid: dates move each year. Evenings come alive with iftar meals.

Music and dance

  • Traditional Emirati music and the ayyala stick dance, often performed at heritage events.

  • A big club and beach club scene with international DJs, especially in winter.

Photography spots

  • Burj Khalifa: from the observation deck or from the Dubai Fountain boardwalk at blue hour.

  • Dubai Marina: the skyline at night from the Marina walk.

  • Desert: dunes at sunrise or sunset.

  • Drones: heavily restricted and require registration. Check current rules.

Cost of living

  • Overall: Dubai and Abu Dhabi: $$$$, about 15% cheaper than New York. Dubai Marina and Downtown run higher.

  • Coffee: about $6

  • Local lunch: about $15

  • Dinner for two at a nice restaurant: about $140

  • Beer or cocktail: about $12 / $18

  • Ride across town: about $12

  • Mid-range hotel: about $180 a night

  • Furnished one-bedroom in a good area: about $2,200 a month in Dubai Marina or Downtown, $1,900 in Abu Dhabi's Al Reem Island

  • Daily budget: about $120 budget, $260 comfortable, $600+ luxury in Dubai; Abu Dhabi is similar

Dubai can be moderate or extravagant depending on choices. Taxis are cheap, while alcohol, brunches and rent in good areas are pricey. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Internet is fast and reliable, often 200 Mbps or more. Hotels and malls have strong Wi-Fi, and power cuts are rare. Some VoIP apps are restricted.

  • Coworking and cafes: Dubai is the nomad choice, with cafes in Jumeirah and Business Bay and coworking at Dubai Internet City, Nest and Impact Hub Dubai. Abu Dhabi is calmer and has Hub71 for startups.

  • Time zone: UTC+4, 8 hours ahead of US Eastern (9 hours when the US is on standard time).

  • Visa for longer stays: US citizens get 30 days visa-free on arrival, extendable. Dubai has a Virtual Working Programme for remote workers that lasts one year. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 4 out of 5, safe, fast, and well run, though summer heat and high rents limit it for me.

Good to know

  • Language: Arabic, but English is spoken almost everywhere.

  • Currency: UAE dirham. Cards work everywhere.

  • Plugs: Type G, 230V.

  • Entry for US citizens: visa on arrival for short stays. Check current rules.

  • Best time to visit: November to March. Summer is extremely hot.

  • Tipping: 10 to 15 percent in restaurants if service is not included.

  • Apps: Uber and Careem for rides, Talabat and Deliveroo for delivery.

  • Water: tap water is safe, but most people drink bottled.

Useful phrases

  • Hello: Marhaba

  • Thank you: Shukran

  • Peace be upon you: As-salaam alaykum

  • How much: Bikam

Nightlife

Dubai's nightlife is glamorous and tightly regulated. It is centered on hotels, resorts and licensed venues, and brunch plays the role that late nights do elsewhere.

  • When people go out: Dinner is at 8 or 9, lounges fill from 10 and clubs run until 3 or 4. Thursday and Friday are the big nights, depending on the local weekend.

  • Where the action is: Dubai Marina and JBR have beach bars and lounges, Downtown has rooftops, and Palm Jumeirah has the beach clubs and resort venues.

  • The music: House, commercial dance and hip hop in the clubs, with lounge and DJ sets at brunches and beach clubs.

  • Must-visit: A Friday brunch at a big hotel is the signature Dubai social event and worth booking ahead.

  • Good to know: Dubai is expensive for drinking, with high prices and covers at clubs, and bottle service is common. Dress is smart and stylish, and venues can refuse shorts, sandals or sports clothes. Alcohol is only legal in licensed venues and public drunkenness is an offense, so use Uber, Careem or a taxi, and never drive after drinking.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Dubai has a big international expat community. Coworking spaces, beach clubs, run clubs along Jumeirah and sports groups are where people meet. Brunches are a social institution.

  • Apps: Bumble, Tinder and Hinge are used. Meetup and Facebook or WhatsApp expat groups are the most useful for friends.

  • Etiquette: A handshake is standard, and use the right hand, letting the other person offer first if unsure. Be punctual for business. Plans are made on WhatsApp. Respect local laws on public behavior and dress.

  • Stay smart: Meet in public and follow local rules on alcohol and public conduct closely, since the laws are strict.

Staying safe

  • Dubai is one of the safest cities in the world.

  • Respect local laws and customs: dress modestly in public areas and malls, no public drunkenness and no public displays of affection.

  • The heat is serious from May to September. Stay hydrated and plan outdoor time for early morning or evening.

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