Antarctica

Antarctica is the coldest, windiest and most remote continent, and the only one with no native population. Visitors come by expedition ship to see penguin colonies, towering icebergs, whales and silence. Nearly all tourism is to the Antarctic Peninsula, the green-and-white arm that points toward South America.

Why it is on my list

The seventh continent. An expedition ship out of Ushuaia, penguins, icebergs and the Drake Passage. It is the one continent where I would be a guest in the most literal sense, with no roads, no towns and no sound but ice and birds.

Best time to go

• Nov: Early season, with pristine snow and ice, courting penguins and long days.

• Dec to Jan: Warmest weather and nearly endless daylight. Penguin eggs hatch and chicks appear.

• Feb to Mar: Whale season, with humpbacks and orcas feeding. Penguin chicks fledge and fur seals crowd beaches.

• Crowds: Season runs roughly November to March. Prices are highest in December and January.

Where to stay

• Expedition ship: The standard way to visit. Cabins range from basic to suites on small ships with 100 to 200 passengers.

• Ushuaia: The southern Argentine gateway city, often with one or two nights before sailing.

• Punta Arenas: A Chilean port used for fly-cruise departures.

• Camps and lodges: A few land-based camps exist on the continent for specialist trips.

Getting there and around

• Flights: Fly from the US to Buenos Aires (EZE), then to Ushuaia (USH), a roughly 3.5 hour flight.

• Drake Passage: About two days of open ocean each way. It may be rough or calm.

• Fly-cruise: Some itineraries fly from Punta Arenas to King George Island and skip the Drake.

• Landings: Zodiac inflatable boats take small groups ashore.

• Operators: Choose a member of IAATO, the industry body that sets visitor rules.

What to eat

• Onboard dining: Most ships serve three meals daily, often with excellent chefs.

• Ushuaia king crab: Called centolla, sweet and rich.

• Patagonian lamb: Slow-roasted over open fire.

• Hot soup and sandwiches: Served on deck during landings.

• Empanadas: Common snacks in Argentina.

What to drink

• Hot chocolate: The standard shipboard warm-up.

• Malbec: Argentina's signature red wine, easy to find in Ushuaia.

• Beagle beer: A local craft beer from Ushuaia.

• Mate: Argentina's herbal tea, shared in town.

• Tea and coffee: Always available on ship.

Don't miss

• Paradise Bay: Ice cliffs and glassy water.

• Lemaire Channel: A narrow passage with sheer mountains.

• Penguin colonies: Gentoo, Adélie and chinstrap penguins.

• Deception Island: A flooded volcanic caldera.

• Port Lockroy: A historic British base with a post office.

• Zodiac cruising: Close to icebergs and wildlife.

• Humpback whales: Often seen from the ship deck.

• Polar plunge: Optional, short and unforgettable.

Day trips and side trips

• South Shetland Islands: Stops on many itineraries.

• Beagle Channel: Cruises from Ushuaia.

• Tierra del Fuego National Park: Hiking near Ushuaia.

• South Georgia and Falklands: Longer expeditions for wildlife.

Festivals and events

• Midwinter celebrations: Research stations celebrate June 21.

• Noche Más Larga: Ushuaia's winter solstice festival, usually June.

• Ushuaia's anniversary: October 12.

Nightlife

There is no nightlife on the ice, and the day is the show. Evenings on board mean lectures, drinks in the lounge and long talks with naturalists. Ushuaia is the place to celebrate.

• When people go out: In Ushuaia after dinner. On board, after the daily recap.

• Where the action is: Ship lounges and Ushuaia's waterfront bars.

• Good to know: Ships have early wake-up calls for landings.

Photography spots

• Neko Harbour: Glaciers calving into the bay.

• Paradise Bay: Reflection shots at calm times.

• Penguin rookeries: Wide-angle and telephoto frames.

• Zodiac cruises: Low angles on ice.

• Drones: Banned by many operators and prohibited near wildlife under IAATO guidelines. Leave them behind unless a trip permits them.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$$$$ compared with New York.

• Typical trip: $8,000 to $15,000 per person for 10 to 12 days, with luxury ships above $20,000.

• Last-minute deals: Sometimes found in Ushuaia, but not reliable.

• Extras: Flights, pre-trip hotels, gear and insurance.

• Shoulder season: November and March are cheaper.

• Single supplement: Solo travelers may pay up to double.

Antarctica is a major splurge, and booking early often saves money.

Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Satellite internet exists on ships but is slow and costly.

• Coworking: Not applicable. Plan to disconnect.

• Time zone: Ships follow the departure port, usually one hour ahead of US Eastern in summer.

• Visas: No visa needed for the continent. Argentina and Chile have their own rules.

• Nomad rating: 0/5.

Good to know

• Language: English is used on ships, and Spanish in Ushuaia.

• Gear: Waterproof parka, boots and layers. Many operators loan parkas and boots.

• Rules: IAATO limits visitors to 100 ashore at a time and keeps people about 15 feet from wildlife.

• Entry for US citizens: Check current rules for Argentina or Chile.

• Insurance: Medical evacuation coverage is required by most operators.

• Tipping: Crew tips are customary at the end of the voyage.

• Leave no trace: Nothing may be taken, and no food is allowed ashore.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Small ships create a close-knit community.

• Apps: Shipboard group chats and operator apps.

• Etiquette: Follow the expedition team and keep a respectful distance from wildlife.

• Stay smart: Listen to briefings and follow boot-washing rules.

Staying safe

• Seasickness: Bring remedies for the Drake Passage and start early.

• Layers: Dress for wind and spray. Wet hands get cold fast.

• Landings: Move slowly on slick rocks and keep a hand free.

• Insurance: Confirm medical evacuation coverage before you pay.