Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan sits where Europe meets Asia on the Caspian Sea, with an oil boom capital, a walled medieval core and Caucasus villages above the clouds. It is a place of tea houses, fire and strikingly modern architecture.
Why it is on my list
Baku's skyline, mountains that burn and the Caspian coast. The three Flame Towers glow over the city, natural gas flames burn on the hillside at Yanar Dag, and the sea runs along an old promenade.
Best time to go
April to June: mild and green, ideal for Baku and the mountains.
September to October: warm days and harvest season in the countryside.
July and August: hot and humid on the coast, but cooler in the Caucasus.
Winter: cold and windy in Baku, with snow and skiing at Shahdag.
Where to stay
Icherisheher (Old City): inside the walls, with boutique hotels and quiet lanes.
Baku Boulevard and Fountain Square: restaurants, shops and sea views.
Sheki: stay in a restored caravanserai for an old silk road feel.
Lahic and Xinaliq: guesthouses in mountain villages.
Getting there and around
Airports: Baku Heydar Aliyev (GYD) is the main gateway.
From the US: usually one stop via Istanbul, Frankfurt, Doha or Dubai.
Internal: trains link Baku with Ganja and Sheki. Shared vans and taxis fill the gaps.
Metro: Baku's metro is cheap and efficient.
Permits: border zones and areas near Armenia need care. Check current rules and advisories.
What to eat
Plov: saffron rice with lamb and dried fruit.
Dolma: stuffed grape leaves or vegetables, often with yogurt.
Qutab: thin pancakes filled with greens, meat or pumpkin.
Piti: mutton and chickpea stew, a Sheki specialty.
Sheki halva: layered rice flour sweet, and baklava known as pakhlava.
What to drink
Black tea: served in small pear shaped glasses with jam or sugar cubes.
Ayran: a salted yogurt drink.
Wine: a small local industry, with reds and whites worth trying in Shamakhi and Ganja.
Beer and vodka: Xirdalan and Baku lagers are common.
Don't miss
Icherisheher: UNESCO listed old town and the Maiden Tower.
Flame Towers: best after dark when the lights run.
Heydar Aliyev Center: the flowing white building by Zaha Hadid.
Yanar Dag: a hillside where gas flames have burned for decades.
Gobustan: rock carvings thousands of years old and small mud volcanoes.
Atashgah Fire Temple: an old Zoroastrian and Hindu worship site.
Day trips and side trips
Sheki: the Khan's Palace and its stained glass windows.
Lahic: a copper working village in the mountains.
Xinaliq: one of the highest villages in Europe.
Absheron Peninsula: fire temples, beaches and old oil fields.
Festivals and events
Novruz: the spring new year, around March 20 and 21.
Baku Jazz Festival: usually in autumn.
Formula 1 Azerbaijan Grand Prix: a street race through the Old City, date varies.
Gabala Music Festival: classical and folk, usually in summer.
Music and dance
Mugham: the classical modal music of Azerbaijan, UNESCO recognized.
Ashiq: traveling bards who sing and play the saz.
Yalli: a group folk dance.
Nightlife
Baku has a lively, dressy nightlife in a mostly Muslim country. Tea houses and restaurants are the heart of the evening.
When people go out: dinner at 8 or 9, then bars and lounges after 10.
Where the action is: Fountain Square, Neftchilar Avenue and rooftop bars near the Old City.
Good to know: alcohol is legal and available, but less central outside Baku.
Photography spots
Flame Towers: best from the Highland Park viewpoint at dusk.
Old City rooftops: sunrise over the walls and Caspian.
Gobustan: dramatic hills and rock art.
Lahic and Xinaliq: mountain villages at golden hour.
Drones: a permit is generally required. Check current rules before packing one.
Cost of living
Overall: $ to $$ versus New York.
Coffee: $2 to $4.
Local lunch: $5 to $10.
Dinner for two: $30 to $60.
Beer: $2 to $4.
Mid range hotel: $70 to $140 per night.
Daily budget: $80 to $150.
Baku is the priciest part of the country. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: fast in Baku cafes and hotels.
Coworking: a growing number of spaces in Baku.
Time zone: 8 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 9 in winter.
Longer stays: an e-visa covers short visits. Longer stays need a residence permit.
Nomad rating: 3/5.
Good to know
Language: Azerbaijani. Russian is widely understood and English is common among younger people in Baku.
Currency: Azerbaijani manat.
Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: an e-visa is required and is quick online. Check current rules and any advisories.
Getting around apps: Bolt and Yango work well in Baku.
Tipping: about 10 percent, sometimes already included.
Water: use bottled water.
SIM/eSIM: local SIMs are cheap and eSIMs work.
Useful phrases
Salam: hello.
Sag ol: thank you.
Zehmet olmasa: please.
Bali and Xeyr: yes and no.
Meeting people
Social scene: hospitality is strong, and tea invitations are common.
Apps: expat groups and Couchsurfing help most.
Etiquette: remove shoes indoors, dress modestly at mosques and accept tea when offered.
Stay smart: avoid political topics and photographing government buildings.
Staying safe
Border areas: the US government has advisories for regions near Armenia and the Nagorno-Karabakh zone. Check before traveling.
Mine risk: stay on marked roads in former conflict areas.
Cities: Baku is generally safe, with normal petty theft precautions.