French Polynesia

Oceania
Written By Alex Hall

French Polynesia is 118 islands scattered across the South Pacific, famed for overwater bungalows, impossibly blue lagoons and the sharp green peaks of Bora Bora and Moorea. It is French in food and administration, and deeply Polynesian in music, tattoo art and welcome. The best way to see it is from the water.

Why it is on my list

Bora Bora and Moorea from the water. I want to see those peaks rise from the lagoon from a canoe or a boat, and slide into water so clear it looks lit from below.

Best time to go

  • May to Oct: Dry season, with lower humidity and the best weather.

  • Jul to Oct: Humpback whales visit Moorea and Tahiti's waters.

  • Nov to Apr: Warmer, wetter and humid. Showers are short and prices lower.

  • Crowds: Peak in July and August, plus honeymoon season.

Where to stay

  • Moorea: Less formal than Bora Bora, with affordable pensions and resorts. Hilton Moorea and InterContinental Moorea are well known.

  • Bora Bora: The famous overwater bungalows. Four Seasons Bora Bora and St. Regis Bora Bora are iconic.

  • Tahiti: Papeete for the market, island tours and transit.

  • Taha'a and Huahine: Quiet, authentic and less visited.

  • Pensions: Family-run guesthouses for lower budgets.

Getting there and around

  • Flights: Fly into Faa'a (PPT) on Tahiti. Air Tahiti Nui flies from Los Angeles and Seattle, and United flies from San Francisco.

  • Inter-island: Air Tahiti flies to Moorea, Bora Bora and Huahine. Moorea is a 30 minute ferry from Papeete.

  • Bora Bora: The airport is on a motu, so a boat transfer is needed.

  • Around: Rent a scooter or car on Moorea, or join lagoon tours.

What to eat

  • Poisson cru: Raw tuna in lime and coconut milk, the national dish.

  • Poulet fafa: Chicken with taro greens and coconut.

  • Mahi mahi and tuna: Fresh and grilled.

  • Tahitian vanilla: In desserts and sauces, grown on Taha'a.

  • Roulottes: Food trucks serving steaks and crepes in Papeete.

What to drink

  • Hinano: The local lager.

  • Fresh coconut: Sold everywhere.

  • Rum: Tahitian rum with vanilla.

  • Coffee: Tahitian-grown beans are rare but worth a try.

  • Tropical juice: Pineapple, passion fruit and guava.

Don't miss

  • Bora Bora lagoon tour: Snorkel with rays and sharks.

  • Mount Otemanu: The volcanic peak above Bora Bora.

  • Moorea Belvedere: A lookout over Cook's and Opunohu bays.

  • Matira Beach: A long public beach.

  • Papeete market: Flowers, pearls and pareos.

  • Paul Gauguin Museum: Art and history in Tahiti.

  • Teahupo'o: A famous surf wave on Tahiti.

Day trips and side trips

  • Taha'a: Vanilla and pearl farms by boat.

  • Rangiroa: An atoll with dolphin snorkeling.

  • Tetiaroa: A private atoll with resort access.

  • Huahine: A quiet island with ancient marae.

Festivals and events

  • Heiva i Tahiti: Usually July, a month of dance, canoe races and sport.

  • Tahiti Pearl Regatta: Usually May.

  • Hawaiki Nui Va'a: Usually October or November, a canoe race across islands.

  • Tiare Festival: Usually in winter, honoring the national flower.

Music and dance

  • 'Ote'a: Fast hip-swaying dance with drums.

  • Aparima: Gentle dance telling stories.

  • Ukulele: Strummed everywhere.

Nightlife

Nights are quiet and tied to resorts, with fire dance shows and local music. Papeete is the one place with proper bars and clubs.

  • When people go out: After sunset, usually early to bed.

  • Where the action is: Papeete's waterfront and resort lounges.

  • Good to know: Many restaurants close early outside Papeete.

Photography spots

  • Moorea Belvedere: Twin bays at golden hour.

  • Matira Point: Lagoon colors.

  • Mount Otemanu: Clouds on the peak.

  • Overwater bungalows: Sunset reflections.

  • Drones: Allowed under French rules with registration, but not near airports or people. Many resorts restrict them. Check current rules.

Cost of living

  • Overall: $$$$$ compared with New York.

  • Coffee: $4 to $6.

  • Local lunch: $15 to $25.

  • Dinner for two: $100 to $200.

  • Beer: $6 to $9.

  • Mid-range hotel: $200 to $350.

  • Daily budget: $250 and up. Pensions lower it.

It is among the priciest places on earth, since most goods are imported.

Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

  • Wi-Fi: Fast in Papeete, spotty on outer islands.

  • Coworking: A few spaces in Tahiti.

  • Time zone: Six hours behind US Eastern in summer, five in winter.

  • Visas: Usually 90 days for US citizens. Check current rules.

  • Nomad rating: 2/5.

Good to know

  • Language: French and Tahitian. English is spoken in resorts.

  • Currency: The CFP franc.

  • Plugs: Type E, 220 V. Bring an adapter.

  • Entry for US citizens: Passport required, usually no visa for short stays. Check current rules.

  • Getting around: Taxis, rental cars and ferries. Ride apps are limited.

  • Tipping: Not expected, though appreciated for great service.

  • Water: Tap water is safe in Papeete, bottled elsewhere.

  • SIM/eSIM: Vini is the main carrier.

Useful phrases

  • Ia ora na: Hello.

  • Maururu: Thank you.

  • Aita pe'ape'a: No problem.

  • Manuia: Cheers.

  • Nana: Goodbye.

Meeting people

  • Social scene: Warm and respectful.

  • Apps: Few. Pensions and boat tours are the best places to connect.

  • Etiquette: Dress modestly in villages and ask before photographing people.

  • Stay smart: Do not step on coral or touch marine life.

Staying safe

  • Sun: Strong UV, so cover up and use reef-safe sunscreen.

  • Water: Obey current warnings, even in lagoons.

  • Boats: Use licensed operators and carry water.

  • Cyclones: Check forecasts from November to April.

Alex Hall
Previous

Guyana
Next

Fiji