Georgia

Georgia is a small country at the edge of Europe and Asia, with the high Caucasus to the north and the Black Sea to the west. It has its own alphabet, ancient churches, a feast culture built around long toasts, and a wine tradition that goes back about 8,000 years.

Why it is on my list

Tbilisi, the Caucasus mountains and the oldest wine in the world. Georgia is the birthplace of qvevri wine, made in clay vessels buried in the ground, and it sits in a landscape of sharp peaks, sulfur baths and hilltop monasteries.

Best time to go

• Spring (May and June): green hills, wildflowers and mild temperatures in Tbilisi.

• Autumn (September and October): the grape harvest, called rtveli, is the best time for wine regions.

• Summer: hot in Tbilisi and the lowlands, but ideal for the mountains and Black Sea beaches.

• Winter: good skiing in Gudauri and Bakuriani, but mountain roads can close.

• Hiking: Svaneti and Kazbegi trails are best from June to September.

Where to stay

• Tbilisi (Old Town and Sololaki): walkable, with wooden balconies, wine bars and sulfur baths.

• Kakheti (Sighnaghi, Telavi): wine country, with family run guesthouses and cellars.

• Kazbegi (Stepantsminda): a base for hikes beneath Mount Kazbek.

• Svaneti (Mestia, Ushguli): medieval stone towers and remote high valleys.

• Batumi: a Black Sea resort city with beaches and modern towers.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Tbilisi (TBS) and Kutaisi (KUT). From the US, connections usually go via Istanbul, Doha, Dubai or a European hub.

• Marshrutkas: shared minibuses link towns cheaply.

• Trains: modern Stadler trains run Tbilisi to Batumi and Kutaisi.

• Drivers and tours: hiring a driver for a day is affordable and often the best way to see the countryside.

• Mountain roads: rugged, so a 4x4 is useful in Svaneti.

What to eat

• Khachapuri: cheese filled bread. Adjarian khachapuri comes shaped like a boat with an egg on top.

• Khinkali: soup filled dumplings, eaten by hand.

• Badrijani nigvzit: eggplant rolls with walnut paste.

• Mtsvadi: grilled meat skewers.

• Churchkhela: candle shaped nuts dipped in grape juice.

• The supra: the traditional feast with many dishes, led by a toastmaster.

What to drink

• Qvevri wine: amber wines made in buried clay vessels, a UNESCO recognized tradition.

• Saperavi: a deep red grape that is the country's signature.

• Rkatsiteli: a classic white and amber grape.

• Chacha: a strong grape brandy, usually served at toasts.

• Tarkhuna and Borjomi: a tarragon soda and a mineral water, both local favorites.

Don't miss

• Tbilisi Old Town: Abanotubani sulfur baths, Narikala Fortress and the Peace Bridge.

• Gergeti Trinity Church: a monastery under Mount Kazbek.

• Svaneti towers: Ushguli is one of Europe's highest inhabited villages.

• Kakheti wine route: visit family cellars in Telavi and Sighnaghi.

• Uplistsikhe: an ancient cave town near Gori.

• Mtskheta: the old capital, with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.

• Vardzia: a medieval cave monastery in the south.

• Georgian Military Road: a dramatic mountain drive to Kazbegi.

Day trips and side trips

• Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery: an easy half day from Tbilisi.

• Kakheti wine day: Sighnaghi and a cellar or two in one day.

• Kazbegi: a long day trip, though an overnight is better.

• Kutaisi: Prometheus Cave and Martvili Canyon.

• Borjomi: a spa town known for mineral water and forests.

Festivals and events

• Tbilisoba: city festival, usually in October.

• Rtveli: the wine harvest, usually in September and October.

• Tbilisi Wine Festival: usually in May.

• Black Sea Jazz Festival: in Batumi, usually in the summer.

• Electronic music events: Tbilisi's club scene hosts international DJs year round, so check current listings.

Music and dance

• Polyphonic singing: a UNESCO recognized, ancient choral tradition.

• Folk dance: Sukhishvili and other ensembles perform fast, athletic dances.

• Electronic scene: Tbilisi is known in Europe for its clubs, such as Bassiani and Khidi.

Nightlife

Tbilisi is one of the most surprising nightlife cities in the region, with a serious underground club scene and warm wine bars. Georgians love to stay out late, toast often and share food.

• When people go out: dinner late, and clubs after midnight, often lasting until morning.

• Where the action is: Vera, Sololaki and Fabrika for bars, and the club district by the river.

• Good to know: club doors can be selective. Dress simply and arrive in a small group.

Photography spots

• Narikala Fortress: a view over Tbilisi's red roofs.

• Gergeti Trinity Church: best at sunrise with Kazbek behind.

• Ushguli: stone towers with Mount Shkhara.

• Tbilisi sulfur bath domes: brick roofs in Abanotubani.

• Drones: registration may be required, and flying is restricted near borders and government sites. Check current Georgian rules.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$, much cheaper than New York.

• Coffee: about $2 to $3.

• Local lunch: about $5 to $10.

• Dinner for two: about $30 to $60 with wine.

• Beer: about $2 to $4.

• Mid-range hotel: about $60 to $120 per night.

• Daily budget: about $50 to $110 per person.

Georgia is excellent value, especially outside Tbilisi. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: fast in Tbilisi and Batumi, patchier in the mountains.

• Coworking: a growing scene in Tbilisi and Batumi.

• Time zone: 8 to 9 hours ahead of US Eastern, depending on daylight saving.

• Visa: US citizens can usually stay up to a year visa free, and there is a remote worker program. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 4/5. Low cost and a long visa free stay.

Good to know

• Language: Georgian. English is common among younger people in Tbilisi and tourist areas, with Russian also widely understood.

• Currency: Georgian lari (GEL). Cards are widely accepted in cities.

• Plugs: Type C and F, 220V.

• Entry for US citizens: no visa needed for stays up to one year. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Bolt and Yandex Go for taxis, and Tbilisi Metro.

• Tipping: about 10 percent in restaurants if service is not included.

• Water: tap water is usually fine in Tbilisi, but bottled water is common elsewhere.

• SIM/eSIM: local SIMs from Magti and Silknet are cheap, and eSIMs work well.

Useful phrases

• Madloba: thank you.

• Gamarjoba: hello.

• Gaumarjos: cheers, which also means victory.

• Bodishi: excuse me or sorry.

• Diakh and ara: yes and no.

Meeting people

• Social scene: warm, hospitable and generous. A guest is treated as a gift.

• Apps: Meetup, Facebook groups for expats and travelers in Tbilisi.

• Etiquette: at a supra, wait for the toastmaster, and do not drink before the first toast.

• Stay smart: accept hospitality gracefully, and be cautious about political topics.

Staying safe

• Tbilisi is generally safe, with petty theft and taxi overcharging the main nuisances.

• Stay away from the occupied regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia.

• Drive carefully, as road conditions and traffic habits can be rough.

• Emergency number is 112.