Jordan

Jordan is small, safe and spectacular. A rose red city carved into cliffs, a desert of sandstone arches, and a sea so salty you float, all within a few hours of Amman.

Why it is on my list

Petra by candlelight and a night in the Wadi Rum desert. I want to walk the Siq at dusk, when candles line the path, then sleep under desert stars in Wadi Rum.

Best time to go

• March to May: spring wildflowers and mild weather. The best season.

• September to November: warm days and comfortable nights.

• December to February: cold nights, occasional rain and even snow in Petra.

• June to August: hot, but the Dead Sea and Aqaba are still enjoyable early or late in the day.

• Crowds: Petra is busiest in spring and fall. Arrive at opening.

Where to stay

• Wadi Musa (Petra): the town beside the entrance. The Mövenpick Resort Petra is right at the gate.

• Wadi Rum: Bedouin run camps, from simple tents to bubble style domes.

• Amman: Jabal Amman and Jabal Weibdeh are central and walkable.

• Dead Sea: resorts such as the Kempinski Ishtar offer spa days and floating.

• Aqaba: a Red Sea base for diving and snorkeling.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Queen Alia International (AMM) in Amman and Aqaba (AQJ).

• From the US: nonstop flights to Amman have run from New York. Otherwise connect via Europe or the Gulf.

• Internal: rental car, private driver or JETT buses between cities. Taxis are cheap.

• Jordan Pass: includes the visa fee if you stay at least 3 nights, plus entry to Petra and many sites. Buy it online before arrival.

• Wadi Rum: a permit is bought at the visitor center and jeeps are driven by Bedouin guides.

What to eat

• Mansaf: lamb in fermented yogurt sauce with rice, the national dish.

• Maqluba: upside down rice with vegetables and meat.

• Zarb: Bedouin meat and vegetables cooked underground.

• Falafel, hummus and ful: cheap and excellent breakfast.

• Musakhan: roasted chicken with sumac on flatbread.

• Knafeh: warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup.

What to drink

• Arabic coffee: cardamom scented, served in small cups.

• Mint tea: sweet, hot and offered everywhere.

• Jordan Valley wine: local producers make decent reds and whites.

• Arak: aniseed spirit, diluted with water and ice.

• Local beer: Petra Beer in licensed venues.

Don't miss

• Petra by day: the Treasury, the Monastery climb and the High Place of Sacrifice.

• Petra by Night: candlelit evenings, usually on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday.

• Wadi Rum: jeep tours, sunset and a night in a desert camp.

• Dead Sea: float in the world's lowest and saltiest sea.

• Jerash: one of the best preserved Roman cities.

• Amman: the Citadel and the Roman Theatre.

• Dana Biosphere Reserve: canyon hiking through quiet villages.

Day trips and side trips

• Jerash and Ajloun Castle: from Amman in a day.

• Madaba and Mount Nebo: Byzantine mosaics and views toward Jerusalem.

• Wadi Mujib: canyon walking and water hikes, seasonal.

• Aqaba: snorkeling on the Red Sea.

• Little Petra: a quieter nearby site.

Festivals and events

• Jerash Festival: arts and music, usually in summer.

• Amman Design Week: usually in autumn.

• Amman Marathon: usually in October.

• Independence Day: May 25, with fireworks.

Music and dance

• Dabke: line dance with strong stomping rhythms, performed at weddings and celebrations.

• Bedouin oud and rababa: heard around desert campfires.

• Arabic pop: played in Amman cafes and clubs.

Nightlife

Amman is the nightlife center, with rooftop bars, live music and craft cocktail spots. Outside Amman, evenings are quiet and family focused.

• When people go out: dinner at 8 or 9, bars until 1.

• Where the action is: Rainbow Street, Abdoun and Jabal Weibdeh.

• Good to know: alcohol is sold in licensed venues. Dress modestly.

Photography spots

• Petra Treasury: best in the morning light from inside the Siq.

• Monastery viewpoint: look back over the valley.

• Wadi Rum: Burdah Rock Bridge and sunset dunes.

• Amman Citadel: the Temple of Hercules and city views.

• Drones: require a permit and are banned at most sites. Do not fly without approval.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ to $$$ versus New York.

• Coffee: $2 to $4.

• Local lunch: $4 to $8.

• Dinner for two: $25 to $60.

• Beer: $5 to $8.

• Mid range hotel: $80 to $160 per night.

• Daily budget: $120 to $220.

Petra entry and Wadi Rum tours are the main costs. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: good in Amman cafes and hotels.

• Coworking: several in Amman.

• Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 8 in winter.

• Longer stays: tourist visas cover short stays. Longer stays need a residence permit.

• Nomad rating: 3/5.

Good to know

• Language: Arabic. English is widely spoken.

• Currency: Jordanian dinar, pegged to the US dollar at about 1.41 dollars.

• Plugs: Types C, D, F, G and J, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: visa on arrival or via the Jordan Pass. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Uber, Careem and Jeeny.

• Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants. Tip guides and drivers.

• Water: drink bottled.

• SIM/eSIM: Zain, Orange and Umniah. eSIMs work.

Useful phrases

• Marhaba: hello.

• Shukran: thank you.

• Afwan: you are welcome.

• Yalla: let us go.

• Ahlan wa sahlan: welcome.

Meeting people

• Social scene: hospitable. Invitations to tea are common.

• Apps: Couchsurfing and Meetup in Amman.

• Etiquette: accept tea. Dress modestly, and shake hands only if offered.

• Stay smart: agree prices with taxis or horse and camel guides in advance.

Staying safe

• Overall: Jordan is one of the safest countries in the region.

• Petra: wear sturdy shoes and carry water. Heat and steps are the main hazards.

• Wadi Rum: go with a registered Bedouin guide.

• Advisories: check current travel advisories, especially near borders.