Kenya

Kenya is where the classic safari began, from the golden plains of the Masai Mara to the snow capped silhouette of Mount Kenya. Add the Swahili coast and a lively capital and you have one of the most varied countries in Africa.

Why it is on my list

The Masai Mara from a hot air balloon at sunrise. It is the picture most people hold of Africa, and I want to see it from above, in silence, as the light spreads across the plains.

Best time to go

• July to October: the Great Migration in the Mara, with river crossings at their best from late July to September.

• January to February: hot and dry, excellent game viewing and fewer visitors.

• March to May: long rains. Cheap, green and quiet, but some camps close.

• November: short rains. Showers are brief and the landscape is lush.

• Coast: best December to March and June to October.

Where to stay

• Masai Mara conservancies: fewer vehicles, night drives and walking safaris. Angama Mara sits on the escarpment above the plains and is among the best known.

• Mara reserve: best for river crossings, but busier.

• Amboseli: elephants with Kilimanjaro behind them.

• Nairobi (Karen or Westlands): boutique hotels and a restaurant scene. Giraffe Manor is the famous one and books out far ahead.

• Diani or Lamu: beach and island stays on the coast.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Jomo Kenyatta in Nairobi (NBO) is the hub. Mombasa (MBA) serves the coast.

• From the US: nonstop options exist from New York and Atlanta in some seasons. Otherwise connect via Europe or the Gulf.

• Internal: small planes from Wilson Airport to the Mara take about 45 minutes. The road takes 5 to 6 hours and is rough.

• Trains: the Madaraka Express links Nairobi and Mombasa in about 5 hours.

• Permits: conservancy and reserve fees are paid through your camp or operator.

What to eat

• Nyama choma: grilled goat or beef, eaten with friends and kachumbari salad.

• Ugali with sukuma wiki: maize meal with braised greens.

• Githeri: corn and beans, a hearty Kikuyu dish.

• Swahili coast curries: coconut fish, pilau and biryani.

• Samosas and mutura: street snacks in Nairobi.

What to drink

• Tusker: the national lager.

• Dawa cocktail: vodka, lime, honey and ice. The name means medicine.

• Kenyan coffee: bright, fruity and among the best in Africa.

• Kenyan tea: strong and milky as chai.

Don't miss

• Hot air balloon over the Mara: a sunrise flight, then a champagne breakfast on the plains. Expect about $450 to $550 per person.

• River crossings on the Mara River: wildebeest versus crocodiles.

• David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust: orphaned elephants at feeding time in Nairobi.

• Nairobi National Park: lions with a city skyline behind them.

• Amboseli: large tuskers and Kilimanjaro views at dawn.

• Maasai village visit: best arranged through a conservancy so benefits go to the community.

• Lamu Old Town: a car free Swahili island.

Day trips and side trips

• Lake Naivasha: boat trips and walks among hippos, an easy drive from Nairobi.

• Lake Nakuru: flamingos and rhinos.

• Diani Beach: a few days of sea and snorkeling after the bush.

Festivals and events

• Lamu Cultural Festival: usually in November, with dhow races and donkey races.

• Rhino Charge: an off road charity race, usually in May.

Music and dance

• Benga: guitar led pop from western Kenya.

• Gengetone and Afropop: Nairobi's youth sound.

Nightlife

Nairobi is one of East Africa's liveliest cities, with a strong live music and club scene. Out on safari, evenings are campfire dinners and early nights.

• When people go out: dinner at 8, clubs from 11 and later on weekends.

• Where the action is: Westlands, Kilimani and Lavington, with rooftop bars and live bands.

• Good to know: use ride apps at night, not street taxis.

Photography spots

• Mara plains at sunrise: long shadows, acacias and migrating herds.

• Angama Mara and Oloololo Escarpment: broad views over the reserve.

• Amboseli: elephants framed by Kilimanjaro.

• Lamu waterfront: dhows and carved doors.

• Drones: require permits from the Kenya Civil Aviation Authority and are restricted in parks and reserves. Ask your camp first.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ in cities, $$$$ to $$$$$ on safari, versus New York.

• Coffee: $2 to $3.

• Local lunch: $3 to $6.

• Dinner for two: $25 to $60.

• Beer: $2 to $3.

• Mid range hotel: $80 to $180 per night.

• Daily budget: $100 to $200 in Nairobi, $400 and up on safari.

Park fees and flights are the big costs. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: good in Nairobi, with fast fiber in many cafes and apartments.

• Coworking: many options in Nairobi, as it is a tech hub sometimes called Silicon Savannah.

• Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 8 in winter.

• Longer stays: a digital nomad style work permit has been discussed. Check the current rules.

• Nomad rating: 3/5.

Good to know

• Language: English and Swahili are both official. English is widely spoken.

• Currency: Kenyan shilling. M-Pesa mobile money is everywhere.

• Plugs: UK style Type G, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: an electronic travel authorization is required before arrival. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Uber, Bolt and Little.

• Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants if no service charge, and $10 to $15 per guest per day for safari guides.

• Water: drink bottled or filtered.

• SIM/eSIM: Safaricom has the best coverage.

Useful phrases

• Jambo: hello.

• Asante sana: thank you very much.

• Pole pole: slowly.

• Sawa: okay, fine.

• Karibu: welcome.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Nairobi is friendly, with expat meetups and run clubs. Camps have shared dining.

• Apps: Meetup and Facebook groups work better than dating apps.

• Etiquette: greet each person, and ask before photographing people.

• Stay smart: negotiate prices before curio shopping and stay with your guide.

Staying safe

• Nairobi: avoid walking after dark and keep phones out of sight in traffic.

• Transport: use ride apps or hotel cars, especially at night.

• Wildlife: stay in the vehicle and follow your guide.