Latvia
Latvia is the middle Baltic state, with a vibrant capital, long empty beaches and thick pine forest. Riga holds one of the finest collections of Art Nouveau buildings in the world, alongside a medieval old town and a famous central market.
Why it is on my list
Riga, with the best Art Nouveau streets in Europe. Whole blocks of ornate facades with sculpted faces, peacocks and swirling vines turn an ordinary city walk into an open air architecture museum.
Best time to go
June to August: warm, long days and festivals. Jurmala beach and the Gauja valley are at their best.
Late May and September: pleasant weather, fewer visitors and lower prices.
Midsummer (Ligo): around June 23 and 24, when the whole country celebrates with bonfires, wreaths and songs.
December: Riga is credited with one of the first Christmas trees, and its markets are lovely.
Winter: cold, snowy and cozy, with fewer tourists.
Where to stay
Old Town (Vecriga): cobbled lanes and easy walking, though busy in summer.
Art Nouveau District (Centrs): quieter streets, restaurants and the best architecture.
Miera iela and Tornakalns: hip neighborhoods with cafes and local life.
Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga: a long standing luxury address overlooking the old town.
Jurmala: a seaside resort town with wooden villas, about 30 minutes away.
Getting there and around
Airport: Riga International (RIX), the busiest in the Baltics, with a bus and taxis to the center.
From the US: typically one stop via Helsinki, Frankfurt, Amsterdam or Copenhagen.
Overland: the classic Baltic route is the ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn, about two hours, then buses south to Riga and Vilnius.
Intercity buses: frequent, cheap and comfortable between Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius.
In Riga: trams, buses and trolleybuses, plus very walkable streets.
What to eat
Grey peas with bacon: the national dish, served at Christmas.
Rye bread soup: sweet and sour, with cream.
Smoked fish: eel, sprats and herring, especially from the coast.
Piragi: small bacon and onion pastries.
Riga Central Market: housed in former Zeppelin hangars, ideal for cheese, pickles, honey and berries.
What to drink
Riga Black Balsam: a bitter herbal liqueur, taken neat or with cola.
Craft beer: Riga has a growing scene, with Labietis and Valmiermuiza as notable names.
Kvass: a lightly fermented rye drink served in summer.
Coffee: specialty cafes are common.
Don't miss
Alberta iela and Elizabetes iela: the heart of the Art Nouveau district.
Riga Art Nouveau Museum: a restored apartment showing period life.
Riga Old Town: House of the Blackheads, Dome Cathedral and Three Brothers.
Central Market: one of Europe's largest markets.
Freedom Monument: a national symbol at the edge of the old town.
Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum: historic farms in a forest by a lake.
St. Peter's Church tower: sweeping views of the city.
Day trips and side trips
Jurmala: beaches, spa towns and wooden villas.
Sigulda and Gauja National Park: castles, caves and cable cars.
Rundale Palace: a baroque palace by the architect of the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg.
Cesis: a medieval castle and a pretty town.
Cape Kolka: where the Baltic Sea meets the Gulf of Riga.
Festivals and events
Ligo (Midsummer): around June 23 and 24, a nationwide celebration.
Positivus Festival: a big pop and indie festival at Salacgriva, usually in July.
Riga Jazz Festival: usually in spring.
Staro Riga: a festival of light in Riga, usually in November.
Latvian Song and Dance Festival: a UNESCO recognized event held every five years.
Music and dance
Choral tradition: huge mass choirs are a cultural cornerstone.
Folk dance: performed in colorful regional dress.
Kokle: a traditional zither like instrument.
Nightlife
Riga has the liveliest nightlife of the three Baltic capitals, from cocktail bars to techno clubs. The old town is busy with visitors, while locals gravitate to the creative quarters.
When people go out: bars fill by 9 and clubs run until 4 or later.
Where the action is: Old Town, Miera iela, Tornakalns and the Spikeri district.
Good to know: some old town venues target stag parties, so choose carefully.
Photography spots
Alberta iela: detailed Art Nouveau facades.
St. Peter's Church tower: red roofs over the Daugava.
Riga Old Town: Dome Square and quiet lanes at dawn.
Jurmala beach: long sand dunes and pine backdrops at sunset.
Drones: Riga lies under controlled airspace. Check restrictions with the Latvian authorities before flying.
Cost of living
Overall: $$ versus New York.
Coffee: $3 to $4.
Local lunch: $8 to $14.
Dinner for two: $40 to $90.
Beer: $3.50 to $6.
Mid range hotel: $80 to $150 per night.
Daily budget: $80 to $150.
One of the best value capitals in the EU. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: fast and widely available.
Coworking: a good range in Riga, including spaces in the old town and Miera iela.
Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern.
Longer stays: Latvia has a digital nomad visa option, so check current rules.
Nomad rating: 4/5.
Good to know
Language: Latvian, with Russian also widely spoken and good English among younger people.
Currency: euro.
Plugs: European Type C and F, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: visa free for short stays in the Schengen area. Check current rules, including ETIAS.
Getting around apps: Bolt, Uber and Forus taxi.
Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants is common.
Water: Riga tap water is considered safe, though many drink bottled.
SIM/eSIM: inexpensive, and eSIMs work.
Useful phrases
Sveiki: hello.
Paldies: thank you.
Ludzu: please.
Uz redzesanos: goodbye.
Priekā: cheers.
Meeting people
Social scene: warm once you break the ice. Riga has a lively expat and creative community.
Apps: Meetup, Tinder and Facebook expat groups.
Etiquette: bring flowers in odd numbers if invited to dinner at someone's house, and remove shoes indoors.
Stay smart: avoid touts promising cheap drinks in the old town.
Staying safe
Bars: check menus and bills in tourist spots.
Pickpockets: be careful at the Central Market and on trams.
Night walking: stick to well lit streets in the center late at night.
Ice: winter sidewalks can be slippery.