Mongolia

Mongolia is one of the least crowded countries on earth. Endless steppe, the Gobi Desert and the Altai Mountains are where nomadic herders still move with their seasons. The sense of space is the main attraction.

Why it is on my list

The Gobi, nomad camps and the eagle hunters of the west. The idea of sleeping in a ger under a huge night sky is a big part of the pull.

Best time to go

• June to August: warm days, green steppe and the Naadam festival. This is the main season.

• September to early October: cooler, fewer visitors and eagle festival season in the west.

• Winter: very cold, with temperatures far below freezing. Few travelers go, and many camps close.

• Gobi: best from May to September. Spring dust storms are common.

Where to stay

• Ulaanbaatar: the capital, with the widest choice of hotels. The Shangri-La and Corporate hotels are well known.

• Ger camps: traditional felt tents with beds and stoves, found across the Gobi, Orkhon Valley and Khuvsgul.

• Three Camel Lodge: an eco lodge in the Gobi, well known to travelers.

• Western Mongolia: simple guesthouses and family gers around Olgii.

Getting there and around

• Airport: Chinggis Khaan International (UBN), with flights from Seoul, Tokyo, Beijing, Istanbul and Frankfurt.

• From the US: usually one stop in Seoul, Tokyo or Istanbul.

• Internal: domestic flights link Ulaanbaatar to Olgii and other hubs. Most overland trips are by 4x4 with a driver.

• Train: the Trans Mongolian line connects Ulaanbaatar to China and Russia.

• Roads: many tracks are unpaved. Plan on slow travel and long days.

What to eat

• Buuz: steamed dumplings stuffed with mutton.

• Khuushuur: fried meat pies, a street food favorite.

• Khorkhog: meat cooked with hot stones in a pot.

• Tsuivan: stir fried noodles with meat and vegetables.

• Dairy: yogurt, aaruul dried curds, and fresh cream.

What to drink

• Suutei tsai: salty milk tea, offered to every guest.

• Airag: fermented mare's milk, the summer drink.

• Chinggis vodka and beer: the best known local brands.

• Sea buckthorn juice: tart and good.

Don't miss

• Gobi Desert: Khongoryn Els singing dunes and the Flaming Cliffs.

• Altai eagle hunters: Kazakh families who hunt with golden eagles in Bayan Olgii.

• Naadam: wrestling, archery and horse racing.

• Orkhon Valley: waterfalls and the ancient capital area at Kharkhorin.

• Khuvsgul Lake: a vast alpine lake in the north.

• Gandan Monastery: the main Buddhist monastery in Ulaanbaatar.

• Terelj National Park: rock formations an hour from the capital.

Day trips and side trips

• Chinggis Khan statue: a giant horseman outside Ulaanbaatar.

• Terelj: hiking and horse riding.

• Hustai National Park: wild Przewalski's horses.

• Kharkhorin and Erdene Zuu: the oldest monastery in the country.

Festivals and events

• Naadam: the national festival, usually July 11 to 13.

• Golden Eagle Festival: in the Altai, usually in early October.

• Tsagaan Sar: the lunar new year, usually in January or February.

Music and dance

• Khoomei: throat singing, a UNESCO recognized tradition.

• Morin khuur: the horse head fiddle.

• Urtiin duu: long songs about the land and horses.

Nightlife

Nightlife exists in Ulaanbaatar and almost nowhere else. The city has a lively mix of craft beer bars, live music and clubs.

• When people go out: dinner around 8, bars busy after 10.

• Where the action is: around Peace Avenue and Sukhbaatar Square.

• Good to know: in the countryside, evenings are for tea and stars.

Photography spots

• Khongoryn Els: dunes at sunrise.

• Flaming Cliffs: red rock at sunset.

• Altai Mountains: eagles and horses against the peaks.

• Orkhon Valley: green steppe and herds of horses.

• Drones: allowed for hobby use in most places, but not near sensitive areas. Check current rules and be respectful around herders.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ in the city, $$$ on guided trips versus New York.

• Coffee: $2 to $4.

• Local lunch: $4 to $8.

• Dinner for two: $20 to $45.

• Beer: $2 to $4.

• Mid range hotel: $60 to $150 per night.

• Daily budget: $80 to $150 in the city, $150 to $250 on an organized tour.

Long driving days and fuel are what add up. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: fast in Ulaanbaatar, nonexistent in the steppe.

• Coworking: a handful of spaces and cafes in the capital.

• Time zone: 12 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 13 in winter.

• Longer stays: US citizens have had visa free entry for short stays. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 2/5.

Good to know

• Language: Mongolian. English is common among younger people in the capital.

• Currency: Mongolian tugrik. Cards work in Ulaanbaatar.

• Plugs: types C and E, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: visa free stays have been offered for short visits. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: UBCab and taxi apps in the capital.

• Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants. Drivers and guides appreciate a tip.

• Water: bottled or filtered.

• SIM/eSIM: cheap local SIMs and eSIMs work in the cities.

Useful phrases

• Sain baina uu: hello.

• Bayarlalaa: thank you.

• Uuchlaarai: sorry, excuse me.

• Tsagaan idee: white food, meaning dairy.

Meeting people

• Social scene: hospitable. Herding families offer tea and food to strangers.

• Apps: Facebook groups and hostels in Ulaanbaatar are the best way to find travel partners.

• Etiquette: take your hat off in a ger, step over the threshold and never touch the door frame.

• Stay smart: accept tea with your right hand, and try at least a sip.

Staying safe

• Remoteness: carry extra water, fuel and a satellite messenger in the Gobi.

• Cities: pickpockets work crowds in Ulaanbaatar. Keep valuables close.

• Weather: storms and cold can arrive fast. Pack layers.

• Insurance: medical care is limited outside the capital. Get evacuation cover.