Serbia

Serbia is a Balkan country at the meeting point of Central Europe and the Ottoman world. Belgrade is gritty, creative and unapologetically late. Beyond it are wine hills, river gorges and monasteries.

Why it is on my list

Belgrade, where the night starts at midnight and ends on a river barge. It is also a place with deep history, good food and prices that make a long stay easy.

Best time to go

• May to June: warm, green and full of events.

• September: wine harvest, warm days and quieter streets.

• July to August: festival season and hot nights, with the river scene at its busiest.

• December to February: cold and gray, but the indoor bar and club scene keeps going.

Where to stay

• Dorcol: leafy and walkable, with cafes near the Danube.

• Savamala: the creative district near the river barges.

• Stari Grad: central and close to Kalemegdan fortress.

• Novi Sad: a calm university city for a night or two.

• Hotel Moskva: the historic grand hotel in the center of Belgrade.

Getting there and around

• Airport: Belgrade Nikola Tesla (BEG), with flights from across Europe and Istanbul.

• From the US: usually one stop in Europe.

• Internal: buses and trains link Belgrade to Novi Sad, Nis and other towns. Hiring a car helps for the national parks.

• City: buses, trams and taxis. Walking is easy in the core.

• Neighbors: buses link Belgrade to Sarajevo, Budapest and Zagreb.

What to eat

• Cevapi: grilled minced meat served with flatbread and onions.

• Burek: flaky pastry with cheese or meat, a breakfast staple.

• Kajmak: creamy dairy spread served with bread and meat.

• Sarma: cabbage rolls, especially in winter.

• Karadjordjeva snicla: breaded veal stuffed with kajmak.

What to drink

• Rakija: fruit brandy, especially plum (sljivovica).

• Wine: Fruska Gora and Sumadija regions, with Prokupac as a native red grape.

• Beer: Jelen and Lav are the common brands, and craft beer is growing.

• Turkish style coffee: slow, strong and social.

Don't miss

• Kalemegdan Fortress: the view over the Sava and Danube rivers.

• Skadarlija: the bohemian street with old taverns and live music.

• Savamala: art spaces and bars.

• Nikola Tesla Museum: the story of the inventor.

• Zemun: the old Austro Hungarian town on the Danube.

• Splavovi: the river barges, where nights end.

• Temple of Saint Sava: one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world.

Day trips and side trips

• Novi Sad: Petrovaradin Fortress and the city's cafes.

• Sremski Karlovci: baroque town and wine cellars.

• Fruska Gora: monasteries and vineyards.

• Tara National Park: forest and canyons, a few hours away.

Festivals and events

• Guca Trumpet Festival: brass band chaos, usually in August.

• Belgrade Beer Fest: usually in August.

• Nisville Jazz Festival: in Nis, usually in August.

• Belgrade Jazz Festival: usually in October.

• Exit Festival: long held at Petrovaradin Fortress in Novi Sad. Check its current location and dates.

Music and dance

• Brass bands: the sound of Guca and Balkan weddings.

• Kolo: circle folk dance.

• Techno and electronic: Belgrade's clubs are known across Europe.

Nightlife

Belgrade is famous for its late nights. People eat around nine, start drinking after midnight and often finish at a river barge as the sun comes up.

• When people go out: clubs open around midnight and peak at 2 or 3.

• Where the action is: the splavovi along the Sava and Danube, plus Savamala and Dorcol bars.

• Good to know: dress code is relaxed in most places, door staff can be selective at big clubs.

Photography spots

• Kalemegdan: sunset where the rivers meet.

• Zemun Quay: Danube light and old facades.

• Savamala: street art and old warehouses.

• Temple of Saint Sava: the dome and the interior.

• Drones: registration and permits are required. Avoid flying over the city center and government buildings.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ versus New York.

• Coffee: $1.50 to $3.

• Local lunch: $6 to $10.

• Dinner for two: $30 to $55.

• Beer: $2 to $4.

• Mid range hotel: $70 to $130 per night.

• Daily budget: $70 to $130.

Belgrade is one of the best value capitals in Europe. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: fast and widely available.

• Coworking: several good spaces in Belgrade and Novi Sad.

• Time zone: 6 hours ahead of US Eastern.

• Longer stays: US citizens can stay 90 days without a visa. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 4/5.

Good to know

• Language: Serbian, written in both Cyrillic and Latin. English is widely spoken by younger people.

• Currency: Serbian dinar. Cash is useful, and cards are widely accepted.

• Plugs: types C and F, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: visa free for up to 90 days. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Pink Taxi, CarGo and Uber style apps.

• Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants.

• Water: tap water is safe in Belgrade.

• SIM/eSIM: cheap local SIMs and eSIMs.

Useful phrases

• Zdravo: hello.

• Hvala: thank you.

• Molim: please, or you are welcome.

• Ziveli: cheers.

Meeting people

• Social scene: open and chatty. Strangers talk easily in bars and on barges.

• Apps: Tinder, Bumble and expat Facebook groups work in Belgrade.

• Etiquette: greet people when entering shops, and expect long, friendly meals.

• Stay smart: avoid political topics about the 1990s and Kosovo.

Staying safe

• Cities: generally safe, with pickpockets in crowded areas and trams.

• Nightlife: watch your drink, and agree on taxi fares or use an app.

• Politics: demonstrations occur. Avoid large protests and check the current US advisory.

• Kosovo border: check current rules before crossing in either direction.