South Korea
South Korea mixes neon cities, royal palaces and mountain temples with some of the best food in Asia. Seoul runs at full speed through the night, while the island of Jeju offers black rock coastline, waterfalls and calm.
Why it is on my list
Seoul by night and the volcanic coast of Jeju. It is on my list because I want the contrast: glowing streets and rooftop views one day, lava cliffs and sea breeze the next. The two are a short flight apart.
Best time to go
April to early May: Cherry blossoms and mild weather.
October: Crisp air and the best autumn color.
July and August: Hot, humid and rainy, with a monsoon season.
Winter: Cold and dry, with ski resorts in Gangwon and snow on Hallasan.
Where to stay
Hongdae: Young, lively and close to clubs and live music.
Gangnam: Modern, polished and near great restaurants.
Bukchon and Insadong: Hanok guesthouses near palaces and tea houses.
Jeju City and Seogwipo: Good bases for the north and south coasts.
Getting there and around
Airports: Incheon (ICN) is the main international gateway. Gimpo (GMP) handles many flights to Jeju. Direct flights run from several US cities.
Trains: KTX high speed trains link Seoul with Busan.
Subway: Clean, cheap and easy with a T-money card.
Jeju: Rent a car, though an international driving permit is needed.
What to eat
Korean barbecue: Grilled pork belly and beef at the table.
Bibimbap: Rice with vegetables, egg and gochujang.
Tteokbokki: Spicy rice cakes from street stalls.
Jeju black pork and seafood: Local specialties, including abalone and grilled mackerel.
Kimchi jjigae: A bubbling stew.
Chimaek: Fried chicken with beer.
What to drink
Soju: Clear, light spirit drunk with meals.
Makgeolli: Milky rice wine, slightly sweet.
Korean beer: Cass, Hite and a growing craft scene.
Coffee: Seoul cafe culture is intense and design led.
Tea: Citron and barley tea are common.
Don't miss
Gyeongbokgung Palace: The main royal palace in Seoul.
N Seoul Tower: Panoramic night views.
Gwangjang Market: Classic street food.
Hongdae and Itaewon: Nightlife districts.
Seongsan Ilchulbong: A volcanic tuff cone on Jeju's east coast.
Hallasan: South Korea's highest peak, a full day hike.
Jusangjeolli Cliffs: Basalt columns by the sea.
Haenyeo divers: Women free divers of Jeju, with demonstrations and seafood.
Day trips and side trips
DMZ tour: A guided visit to the border, booked in advance.
Suwon Hwaseong Fortress: A UNESCO site south of Seoul.
Busan: A coastal city by KTX in about three hours.
Nami Island: A scenic island east of Seoul.
Festivals and events
Cherry Blossom Festivals: Usually in early April.
Lotus Lantern Festival: Usually in May, around Buddha's birthday.
Waterbomb and Seoul Jazz Festival: Summer and spring events with big crowds.
Seollal and Chuseok: Traditional holidays in winter and autumn, with some closures.
Jeju Fire Festival: Usually in late winter.
Music and dance
K-pop: Seen in concerts, street performances and dance studios.
Pansori: Traditional narrative singing with a drummer.
Indie live music: Hongdae's small venues.
Nightlife
Seoul is one of the great night cities, with food, drinks and karaoke often in the same night. Locals follow a layered pattern called rounds, moving from dinner to bar to singing room.
When people go out: Dinner at 7 pm, drinks until midnight, clubs until dawn.
Where the action is: Hongdae, Itaewon, Gangnam and Seongsu for cafes and bars.
Good to know: Subways stop around midnight, but late buses and taxis run.
Photography spots
Namsan Tower: City lights from above.
Bukchon Hanok Village: Early morning, before crowds.
Seongsan Ilchulbong at sunrise: The crater against the sea.
Jusangjeolli: Basalt waves.
Drones: Registration is required and flying in Seoul and near military areas is restricted, so check current rules.
Cost of living
Overall: $$$ (somewhat cheaper than New York).
Coffee: $4 to $6.
Local lunch: $7 to $12.
Dinner for two: $40 to $90.
Beer: $3 to $6.
Mid-range hotel: $90 to $170.
Daily budget: $100 to $200.
Food is the best value, while lodging is the larger cost. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: Among the fastest in the world.
Coworking: Many options in Seoul, including Gangnam and Seongsu.
Time zone: UTC+9, 13 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer.
Visa for longer stays: A workation visa exists for some remote workers. Check current rules.
Nomad rating: 4/5.
Good to know
Language: Korean. English is limited but improving, and Papago helps with translation.
Currency: South Korean won. Cards are accepted nearly everywhere.
Plugs: Type C and F, 220V.
Entry for US citizens: Short stays often require K-ETA or an exemption, so check current rules.
Getting around apps: Naver Map, Kakao Map and Kakao T for taxis.
Tipping: Not expected.
Water: Tap water is safe, and many restaurants serve it free.
SIM/eSIM: eSIMs are easy to buy online or at Incheon airport.
Useful phrases
Annyeonghaseyo: Hello.
Gamsahamnida: Thank you.
Igeo juseyo: Please give me this.
Masisseoyo: It is delicious.
Geonbae: Cheers.
Meeting people
Social scene: Hostels in Hongdae and food tours are the easiest entry.
Apps: KakaoTalk, Instagram and Meetup.
Etiquette: Use two hands to pass or receive things, and pour drinks for others.
Stay smart: Pace yourself with soju on group nights.
Staying safe
South Korea is very safe, with low violent crime.
Watch for fast scooters on sidewalks.
Hike Hallasan only with proper footwear and check trail closures.
Typhoon season runs through late summer and autumn, so check forecasts.