Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka packs rainforest, tea hills, ancient cities, leopards and golden beaches into an island about the size of West Virginia. It is easy to move around, warm in every sense and wonderful for food lovers.

Why it is on my list

The train to Ella, leopards in Yala and surf in the south. It is on my list because that single sentence covers three very different days: green hills seen from an open train door, a safari at dawn and an easy beach morning. Few places let you do all three in a week.

Best time to go

• December to March: Dry season on the south and west coasts, with the best surf and beach weather.

• January to March: Good for Yala safaris and hill country walks.

• May to September: The east coast, such as Arugam Bay, has its best surf and weather.

• Monsoons: Rain varies by coast, so pick your region by month.

Where to stay

• Ella: A relaxed hill town with views of Little Adam's Peak and Nine Arch Bridge.

• Kandy: A cultural city beside a lake.

• Galle Fort: Colonial charm and boutique stays inside the old walls.

• Weligama, Mirissa and Unawatuna: South coast beach towns with surf breaks.

• Yala area: Safari lodges and tented camps near the park entrance.

Getting there and around

• Airport: Bandaranaike International (CMB) near Colombo, usually via Doha, Dubai, Istanbul or Singapore.

• Trains: The Kandy to Ella line is scenic, with reserved seats booked early online.

• Tuk-tuks and drivers: Hiring a car with a driver is affordable and popular.

• Permits: Park tickets for Yala and other reserves are bought through the operator or jeep company.

What to eat

• Rice and curry: A spread of small dishes, often vegetarian.

• Kottu roti: Chopped flatbread stir fried on a griddle.

• Hoppers: Bowl shaped pancakes, often with egg.

• Lamprais: Rice, meat and sambol wrapped in a banana leaf.

• Fresh seafood: Grilled on the south coast.

• Curd and treacle: A classic dessert from buffalo milk.

What to drink

• Ceylon tea: Grown around Nuwara Eliya and Ella.

• King coconut: A bright orange coconut sold at roadside stands.

• Arrack: A coconut palm spirit, often mixed with ginger beer.

• Lion lager: The island's favorite beer.

• Toddy: Fermented palm sap, found in villages.

Don't miss

• Kandy to Ella train: A slow ride through tea country.

• Yala National Park: One of the world's densest leopard populations.

• Sigiriya: A rock fortress rising from the jungle.

• Temple of the Tooth: Kandy's sacred Buddhist site.

• Galle Fort: Ramparts, cafes and sunset walks.

• Nine Arch Bridge: A viaduct near Ella.

• Whale watching: Blue whales off Mirissa, usually from November to April.

Day trips and side trips

• Adam's Peak: A pilgrim climb, best done before dawn.

• Minneriya and Udawalawe: Elephant gatherings.

• Horton Plains: World's End cliffs and cloud forest.

• Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura: Ancient capitals in the cultural triangle.

Festivals and events

• Sinhala and Tamil New Year: Usually in mid April.

• Esala Perahera: A grand procession in Kandy, usually in July or August.

• Vesak: Lantern festival usually in May.

• Galle Literary Festival: Historically in January.

Music and dance

• Kandyan dance: Acrobatic and drum driven, performed nightly in Kandy.

• Baila: Upbeat dance music from Portuguese roots.

• Temple drumming: Heard at ceremonies and processions.

Nightlife

Nightlife is relaxed and beach oriented, with bonfire bars and DJs on the south coast. Colombo has more cocktail bars and clubs.

• When people go out: Dinner around 8 pm, drinks until midnight.

• Where the action is: Mirissa, Unawatuna, Hikkaduwa, and Colombo's Galle Face area.

• Good to know: Alcohol is not sold on poya full moon days.

Photography spots

• Demodara and Nine Arch Bridge: Trains passing over the bridge.

• Sigiriya from Pidurangala: Sunrise views of the rock.

• Galle Fort lighthouse: Warm evening light.

• Yala at dawn: Leopards and elephants.

• Drones: Permits are required from the authorities, and flights near parks and heritage sites are restricted, so check current rules.

Cost of living

• Overall: $ (much cheaper than New York).

• Coffee: $2 to $4.

• Local lunch: $2 to $5.

• Dinner for two: $15 to $40.

• Beer: $2 to $4.

• Mid-range hotel: $40 to $100.

• Daily budget: $50 to $110.

Great value, especially away from resort areas. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Good in Colombo, Ella, Mirissa and Weligama.

• Coworking: Active scenes in Colombo and Weligama.

• Time zone: UTC+5:30, about 9 hours and 30 minutes ahead of US Eastern in summer.

• Visa for longer stays: An electronic travel authorization is used for entry. Extensions exist. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 4/5.

Good to know

• Language: Sinhala and Tamil. English is widely spoken.

• Currency: Sri Lankan rupee. Cards work in hotels, with cash for rural areas.

• Plugs: Types D, G and M, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: An electronic travel authorization is generally required, so check current rules.

• Getting around apps: PickMe and Uber for rides.

• Tipping: About 10 percent, and often a service charge is added.

• Water: Drink bottled or filtered.

• SIM/eSIM: Dialog and Mobitel are cheap and widely used, with eSIM available.

Useful phrases

• Ayubowan: Hello and a wish for long life, in Sinhala.

• Vanakkam: Hello in Tamil.

• Istuti: Thank you in Sinhala.

• Meka kiyada?: How much is this?

• Rasai: Delicious.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Surf camps, hostels and cafes are social, especially in Ella and Weligama.

• Apps: Instagram and WhatsApp for guides and drivers.

• Etiquette: Dress modestly and remove shoes and hats at temples. Never pose with your back to a Buddha statue.

• Stay smart: Agree tuk-tuk prices first or use an app.

Staying safe

• Sri Lanka is generally welcoming, but check current advisories before travel.

• Strong currents are common on the south coast, so swim at lifeguarded beaches.

• Do not sit on train steps or lean out near bridges.

• Keep a safe distance from wild elephants and use licensed jeep operators.