Sweden

Sweden is a country of calm design, long summer light and deep winter snow. Stockholm spreads across fourteen islands where the Baltic meets Lake Malaren, and in the far north Sami territory holds a hotel made of ice.

Why it is on my list

Stockholm in summer and the Ice Hotel in winter. It is two seasons in one country, a bright city of water and cafes, and a sculpted frozen lodge above the Arctic Circle.

Best time to go

• Stockholm in summer: June to August, with long evenings, archipelago boats and outdoor terraces.

• Midsummer: the most Swedish week of the year, in late June.

• Ice Hotel: usually open from December to April. The Northern Lights season runs roughly September to March.

• Midnight sun: late May to July in Swedish Lapland.

• Shoulder seasons: May and September are mild, cheaper and quieter.

Where to stay

• Gamla Stan and Sodermalm: the old town and the trendy island, both walkable and full of character.

• Norrmalm and Ostermalm: central, with shops and polished restaurants.

• Jukkasjarvi: a village by Kiruna and the setting for the Icehotel, which offers ice rooms and warm rooms.

• Abisko: a national park village known for clear aurora skies.

• Known name: Grand Hotel Stockholm on the waterfront is the city's classic grand hotel.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Stockholm Arlanda (ARN) has direct flights from several US cities. Kiruna (KRN) serves the Icehotel, with connections via Stockholm.

• Arlanda Express: a 20 minute train from the airport to Stockholm Central.

• In Stockholm: metro, trams, buses and commuter ferries. Walking covers a lot.

• To the north: fly to Kiruna or take the overnight train from Stockholm to Kiruna or Abisko.

• Archipelago: Waxholmsbolaget boats reach islands in the Baltic.

What to eat

• Swedish meatballs: with mashed potato, cream sauce and lingonberries.

• Smorgasbord: a buffet of herring, cured salmon, cheeses and breads.

• Cinnamon buns (kanelbullar): best with coffee on a fika break.

• Reindeer and Arctic char: northern staples, often at the Icehotel restaurants.

• Raggmunk and crayfish: potato pancakes and August crayfish parties.

• Semla: cream filled cardamom bun, traditional before Lent.

What to drink

• Coffee and fika: a daily break with something sweet.

• Snaps: flavored aquavit sung over at festive meals.

• Craft beer: Stockholm has many breweries and taprooms.

• Glogg: spiced mulled wine, popular in winter.

• Note: wine and spirits are sold at state run Systembolaget shops with limited hours.

Don't miss

• Gamla Stan: cobbled lanes and the Royal Palace.

• Vasa Museum: a nearly intact 17th century warship.

• Stockholm archipelago: a day or overnight on an island such as Vaxholm or Sandhamn.

• ABBA The Museum: a fun stop on Djurgarden.

• Skansen: an open air museum of Swedish life and animals.

• Icehotel in Jukkasjarvi: art suites carved fresh each year.

• Aurora Sky Station in Abisko: a chairlift to a viewing deck.

• Dog sledding: on frozen lakes near Kiruna.

Day trips and side trips

• Uppsala: a university city with a cathedral, 40 minutes by train.

• Drottningholm Palace: a UNESCO royal residence by boat.

• Gothenburg and the west coast: seafood and islands.

• Copenhagen: an easy train from southern Sweden over the Oresund bridge.

Festivals and events

• Midsummer: flower crowns, maypoles and dancing, usually in late June.

• Stockholm Pride: usually late July or early August.

• Way Out West: Gothenburg music festival, usually in August.

• Lucia: candlelit processions on December 13.

• Kiruna Snow Festival: usually in late January.

Music and dance

• Pop powerhouse: from ABBA to Roxette and modern songwriters, Sweden exports hits.

• Folk dance: at midsummer, people dance around the maypole to traditional tunes.

• Electronic and club music: Stockholm has a strong house and techno scene.

Nightlife

Stockholm nights are stylish and sociable, with cocktail bars, clubs and rooftop terraces in summer. Swedes are known to be reserved, but that changes after a drink or two.

• When people go out: Thursday to Saturday, with queues forming after 11 pm.

• Where the action is: Sodermalm, Stureplan and Kungsholmen.

• Good to know: clubs often have age limits and strict door policies. Dress neatly.

Photography spots

• Monteliusvagen: a Sodermalm path with a skyline view across the water.

• Gamla Stan lanes: best at dawn before the crowds.

• Abisko: aurora over Lake Tornetrask.

• Icehotel sculptures: indoor ice art with warm light.

• Drones: require registration and often permits. Much of Stockholm is restricted, and many areas are protected. Check Swedish Transport Agency rules.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$$$, a bit below New York.

• Coffee: about $4 to $5.

• Local lunch: about $13 to $17 for a dagens rätt.

• Dinner for two: about $90 to $140 with drinks.

• Beer: about $8 to $11.

• Mid-range hotel: about $150 to $250 per night. Icehotel rooms cost much more.

• Daily budget: about $150 to $250 per person.

Lunch specials are the best value in the country. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: fast and widespread, including in cafes.

• Coworking: strong scene in Stockholm and Gothenburg.

• Time zone: 6 hours ahead of US Eastern.

• Visa: Schengen rules apply. Longer stays need a permit. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 4/5. Excellent infrastructure and English, at a high cost.

Good to know

• Language: Swedish. English is spoken very well.

• Currency: Swedish krona (SEK). Sweden is nearly cashless, so carry a card.

• Plugs: Type C and F, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: visa free in Schengen for up to 90 days. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: SL for Stockholm transit, SJ for trains, Uber and Bolt for rides.

• Tipping: not expected. Rounding up is common.

• Water: tap water is excellent.

• SIM/eSIM: eSIMs work well, with good coverage nationwide.

Useful phrases

• Tack: thank you.

• Hej: hello.

• Skal: cheers.

• Ursakta: excuse me.

• Hej da: goodbye.

Meeting people

• Social scene: polite and private, but fika invitations are warm.

• Apps: Meetup, Facebook groups and Internations events in Stockholm.

• Etiquette: be punctual, queue properly and take your shoes off when visiting.

• Stay smart: look after your phone and wallet in tourist areas and at crowded stations.

Staying safe

• Sweden is generally safe, though pickpocketing happens at busy stations.

• Be mindful in some suburbs at night and follow local advice.

• In the north, dress for deep cold and follow guide instructions.

• Emergency number is 112.