Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries on earth. It has a white marble capital, ruins from the Silk Road and a vast desert that holds one of the strangest sights anywhere. Seeing it takes planning, and that is part of the draw.

Why it is on my list

The Door to Hell, a gas crater that has been burning since 1971. Standing at the edge of it at night, with the Karakum Desert silent around you, sounds unlike anything else I could do.

Best time to go

• April to May: warm and green, the best time for travel and the desert.

• September to October: cooler after the heat, with clear skies for the crater at night.

• June to August: fierce heat, often over 40 C in the desert. Avoid if you can.

• November to March: cold nights, and even snow in the north. Fewer visitors.

Where to stay

• Ashgabat: the capital has the widest range of hotels, from Soviet era to modern marble towers.

• Darvaza area: most people camp in yurts or tents near the crater.

• Mary: a base for the ancient city of Merv.

• Turkmenbashi: the Caspian port city, with the Avaza resort nearby.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Ashgabat (ASB) is the main international airport, with flights from Istanbul, Dubai, Frankfurt and Moscow.

• From the US: usually via Istanbul or Dubai.

• Visa: visas are difficult. Most visitors go on a guided tour with an invitation letter, or on a short transit visa. Check current rules.

• Guide required: independent travel is limited. Tourists usually travel with a licensed guide and driver.

• Internal: long drives by 4x4 on desert roads. Domestic flights and trains connect larger towns.

What to eat

• Plov: rice with lamb and carrots, the national dish.

• Manti: steamed dumplings with meat or pumpkin.

• Chorba: a rich meat and vegetable soup.

• Shashlik: grilled skewers, served with bread.

• Melons: famous across Central Asia and sold everywhere in summer.

What to drink

• Green tea: served constantly, in small bowls.

• Chal: fermented camel milk, an acquired taste.

• Vodka and beer: available in Ashgabat bars and hotels, including local brands.

• Wine: Turkmen wines are sweet and simple.

Don't miss

• Darvaza gas crater: the Door to Hell, best at night.

• Ashgabat: white marble buildings, golden statues and monuments.

• Merv: a vast Silk Road city and UNESCO site.

• Nisa: ruins of the Parthian capital outside the city.

• Yangykala Canyon: red and white cliffs in the west.

• Kow Ata: an underground hot lake in a cave.

• Sunday Tolkuchka bazaar: camel markets and carpets near Ashgabat.

Day trips and side trips

• Ancient Merv: easily combined with the Mary region.

• Kunya Urgench: tiled mausoleums in the far north.

• Akhal-Teke horses: visit the stables near Ashgabat.

• Karakum Desert camp: a night in a yurt under the stars.

Festivals and events

• Nowruz: spring new year, usually in March.

• Horse Day: celebrating the Akhal-Teke, usually in late April.

• Melon Day: a harvest celebration, usually in August.

Music and dance

• Dutar: a two string lute used in folk songs.

• Bagshy singers: traditional storytellers who sing epic tales.

Nightlife

Nightlife is quiet and heavily regulated. Hotel bars and a few restaurants are the main places to go.

• When people go out: dinner early, with most places closed by late evening.

• Where the action is: hotel bars in Ashgabat and campfires in the desert.

• Good to know: there is a curfew style quietness. Do not expect clubs.

Photography spots

• Darvaza crater: glowing flames after dark.

• Ashgabat: marble towers lit at night. Avoid photographing government buildings, military and police.

• Yangykala Canyon: red cliffs at sunset.

• Merv: mud brick ruins in soft light.

• Drones: not permitted for visitors. Leave yours behind.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$$ versus New York, mostly because tours are required.

• Coffee: $2 to $4.

• Local lunch: $5 to $10.

• Dinner for two: $20 to $50.

• Beer: $2 to $4.

• Mid range hotel: $60 to $150 per night.

• Daily budget: $150 to $300 per person including guide and driver.

The official and market exchange rates can differ widely, so use your guide for advice. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: slow and heavily filtered. Many sites and apps are blocked.

• Coworking: none.

• Time zone: 9 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 10 in winter.

• Longer stays: not realistic for tourists.

• Nomad rating: 0/5.

Good to know

• Language: Turkmen and Russian. English is rare outside guides.

• Currency: Turkmen manat. Bring clean US dollars in cash, as cards rarely work.

• Plugs: types C and F, 220V.

• Entry for US citizens: a visa is required and usually tied to a tour or transit. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: none. Use taxis arranged by your hotel or guide.

• Tipping: small tips for guides and drivers are welcome.

• Water: drink bottled.

• SIM/eSIM: local SIMs exist but internet is restricted. A VPN is often needed.

Useful phrases

• Salam: hello.

• Sag bol: thank you.

• Hajet: please, or need.

• Hoş: okay, good.

Meeting people

• Social scene: small and hospitable. Expect tea and invitations to share food.

• Apps: none useful.

• Etiquette: dress modestly, remove shoes indoors and accept tea with your right hand.

• Stay smart: do not discuss politics, and ask before taking photos of people.

Staying safe

• Rules: follow your guide on photography and restricted sites. Police checkpoints are common.

• Desert: carry water, sun protection and warm layers. Nights get cold.

• Health: medical care is limited. Carry medication and insurance.

• Advisory: check the current US State Department travel advisory before booking.