Botswana

Botswana protects some of the wildest country in Africa, with a policy of low volume, high value tourism. The Okavango Delta is an inland waterway that floods the Kalahari each year and draws wildlife from hundreds of miles around.

Why it is on my list

The Okavango Delta by mokoro, then Victoria Falls. Gliding through papyrus channels at water level, then hearing the Zambezi thunder, sounds like the best contrast in Africa.

Best time to go

• July to October: dry season and prime game viewing. Floodwater peaks in the delta around July and August.

• November to March: green season with birds, baby animals and lower prices. Hot and humid.

• Victoria Falls: fullest March to May, lower and easier to view from the edge September to December.

• Crowds: light all year because camps are small and exclusive.

Where to stay

• Okavango Delta: water and island camps. Sanctuary Chief's Camp and Jao Camp are well known.

• Chobe and Kasane: riverfront lodges and the gateway to the falls.

• Moremi Game Reserve: land and water habitats in one place.

• Maun: the delta's gateway town, for a night before flying in.

• Victoria Falls town: the Victoria Falls Hotel is a historic landmark on the Zimbabwe side.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Maun (MUB), Kasane (BBK) and Gaborone (GBE). Victoria Falls (VFA) and Livingstone (LVI) for the falls.

• From the US: connect via Johannesburg, then fly to Maun or Kasane.

• Internal: light aircraft fly between camps. Roads to remote areas need a 4x4.

• Falls crossing: Kasane to Victoria Falls is about 1.5 hours by road with a border stop. Zimbabwe and Zambia each have entry rules.

What to eat

• Seswaa: slow cooked shredded beef, the national dish.

• Pap and morogo: maize porridge with wild greens.

• Magwinya: fried dough, sometimes called fat cakes.

• Bream: Chobe river fish, often grilled.

• Braai: local beef is excellent.

What to drink

• St Louis lager: Botswana's main beer.

• Chibuku: a traditional sorghum beer.

• Rooibos and coffee: served at bush breakfasts.

• Amarula: after dinner by the fire.

Don't miss

• Mokoro ride: a traditional dugout poled through reed channels.

• Walking safari: on delta islands with a guide.

• Chobe river cruise: huge elephant herds at the water's edge.

• Victoria Falls: the largest sheet of falling water in the world.

• Makgadikgadi Pans: salt flats and meerkats.

• Scenic flight: the delta from above is a different world.

Day trips and side trips

• Victoria Falls: from Kasane for a day or an overnight.

• Chobe day cruise: a boat and game drive combo.

• Tsodilo Hills: ancient rock art in the northwest.

• Zambezi sunset cruise: near the falls.

Festivals and events

• Maitisong Festival: performing arts in Gaborone, usually in March or April.

• Kuru Dance Festival: San culture in D'Kar, usually in August.

• Independence Day: September 30.

Music and dance

• Setswana jazz and Afropop: local radio staples.

• Traditional dance: Tswana choirs and San trance dance traditions.

Nightlife

Nightlife is quiet near the delta, where evenings are about the campfire. Gaborone, Maun and Kasane have bars and a few clubs.

• When people go out: after dinner on weekends.

• Where the action is: Maun riverfront bars and Gaborone.

• Good to know: do not walk in unlit areas, as wildlife roams freely.

Photography spots

• Delta channels at dawn: reflections and reeds from a mokoro.

• Chobe riverbank: elephants at golden hour.

• Makgadikgadi: endless white horizons and baobabs.

• Victoria Falls: rainbow and mist from the Zimbabwe side.

• Drones: not allowed in parks without a permit and effectively banned in most camps. Ask first.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$$$$ for delta camps, $$ in towns, versus New York.

• Coffee: $2 to $3.

• Local lunch: $5 to $8.

• Dinner for two: $30 to $60.

• Beer: $1.50 to $3.

• Mid range hotel: $100 to $200 per night.

• Daily budget: $120 in towns, $800 and up at delta camps.

Camps are costly by design. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: reliable in Gaborone and Maun, absent at most camps.

• Coworking: a few in Gaborone.

• Time zone: 6 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 7 in winter.

• Longer stays: visitors can stay up to 90 days, with extensions possible.

• Nomad rating: 2/5.

Good to know

• Language: English and Setswana. English is widely spoken.

• Currency: Botswana pula. US dollars are accepted by camps.

• Plugs: Types D, G and M, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: usually visa free for short stays. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Bolt and Uber in Gaborone only.

• Tipping: $10 to $20 per guest per day for camp staff and guides.

• Water: generally safe in towns. Camps provide filtered water.

• SIM/eSIM: Mascom and Orange. Coverage is poor in the delta.

Useful phrases

• Dumela: hello.

• Ke a leboga: thank you.

• Go siame: okay, fine.

• Pula: rain, and also the national motto and currency.

Meeting people

• Social scene: friendly and unhurried. Camps put guests together for dinner.

• Apps: limited. Facebook groups for expats.

• Etiquette: greet each person and shake hands gently.

• Stay smart: respect rules around wildlife and village photography.

Staying safe

• Wildlife: follow guide rules and never walk between tents at night without an escort.

• Roads: animals on roads at dusk make night driving unwise.

• Health: malaria precautions are recommended in the north.