Zambia
Zambia is one of the great wild countries of southern Africa, with the Zambezi, Victoria Falls and some of the best walking safaris anywhere. It is quieter and less crowded than its neighbors, and the guiding tradition is excellent.
Why it is on my list
Swimming in Devil's Pool on the edge of Victoria Falls, then walking safaris in South Luangwa. It is the mix of adrenaline and stillness that draws me: a swim at the lip of the biggest curtain of falling water on earth, then days on foot in the bush listening to a guide read tracks and birdsong.
Best time to go
May to October: dry season and the best game viewing. Animals gather near the rivers and the bush thins out.
September to December: low water on the Zambezi, which is when Devil's Pool is open for swimming. It is usually closed when the river runs high.
February to May: Victoria Falls at full flood, thunderous and misty. Great for views, but the pool is closed.
November to April: the green season. Lodges in South Luangwa are cheaper, birding is superb, and some roads and camps close.
Where to stay
Livingstone: the base for the falls. The Royal Livingstone and Tongabezi are well known riverside lodges.
Mfuwe and the Luangwa River: the gateway to South Luangwa, with bush camps set along the riverbank.
Lower Zambezi: canoeing and fishing in a park across the river from Zimbabwe's Mana Pools.
Lusaka: a practical stopover for flights, with little to see.
Getting there and around
Airports: Harry Mwaanga Nkumbula in Livingstone (LVI), Kenneth Kaunda in Lusaka (LUN) and Mfuwe (MFU) for South Luangwa.
From the US: usually one or two stops via Johannesburg, Addis Ababa, Nairobi, Doha or Istanbul.
Internal: small planes link Lusaka and Mfuwe, and most camps arrange airstrip transfers. Roads in the park are rough and slow.
Border: the Victoria Falls Bridge connects Livingstone with Zimbabwe for a day crossing.
What to eat
Nshima: stiff maize porridge eaten with the hand, served with relishes.
Kapenta: tiny dried or fried lake fish from Lake Tanganyika and Kariba.
Ifisashi: greens stewed in groundnut sauce.
Braai and grilled meat: goat, beef and chicken over charcoal.
Village chicken: a favorite on any celebratory table.
What to drink
Mosi lager: the national beer, named after the falls, the smoke that thunders.
Chibuku: a traditional sorghum beer sold in cartons. Try it once with locals.
Zambian coffee: grown in the north and increasingly served in Lusaka cafes.
Gin and tonic: a sundowner staple on safari.
Don't miss
Devil's Pool: a natural rock pool at the edge of the falls, reached with a guide from Livingstone Island.
Victoria Falls: walk the Knife Edge path and see the Boiling Pot.
Walking safari in South Luangwa: the birthplace of the walking safari, with expert guides.
Night drives: leopards, hyenas and genets are active after dark.
Zambezi sunset cruise: hippos, crocodiles and elephants along the bank.
Bungee or bridge swing: from the Victoria Falls Bridge, for those who want it.
Day trips and side trips
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park: a small park beside the falls with giraffes and rhinos.
Zimbabwe side of the falls: cross the bridge for the classic head on views.
Chobe in Botswana: day trips for river wildlife from Livingstone.
Lower Zambezi: canoe safaris past elephants.
Festivals and events
Kuomboka: a ceremonial Lozi move to higher ground by royal barge in western Zambia, usually in March or April.
Ncwala: a Ngoni harvest ceremony in the east, usually in late February.
Livingstone Mosi-oa-Tunya events: small music nights and cultural days through the dry season.
Music and dance
Kalindula: Zambian bass driven pop, played in bars across Lusaka.
Traditional drumming: heard at lodges and cultural villages near Livingstone.
Nightlife
Nights are gentle and social. In the bush, evenings revolve around a fire and shared dinners, while Lusaka and Livingstone have lively bars.
When people go out: dinner around 7 on safari and later in town, bars busiest on Friday and Saturday.
Where the action is: Livingstone's Mosi-oa-Tunya road for bars, and Lusaka's Kabulonga and Longacres areas.
Good to know: walking after dark outside camp is not safe because of wildlife. Take a taxi in town.
Photography spots
Livingstone Island: the falls from a rare angle at the lip.
Knife Edge Bridge: rainbows in the spray at midday.
South Luangwa riverbanks: elephants and carmine bee eaters in dry season.
Zambezi at sunset: hippo silhouettes against orange water.
Drones: restricted and need a permit. Flying near the falls and in national parks is generally not allowed. Check before packing one.
Cost of living
Overall: $$ in town and $$$$ to $$$$$ on safari, versus New York.
Coffee: $2 to $4.
Local lunch: $4 to $8.
Dinner for two: $30 to $70.
Beer: $1.50 to $3.
Mid range hotel: $80 to $200 per night.
Daily budget: $100 to $200 in towns, $400 and up on safari.
Safari and Devil's Pool excursions are the splurge. Everything else is gentle on the wallet. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: reasonable in Lusaka and Livingstone hotels, absent at most bush camps.
Coworking: a few spaces in Lusaka.
Time zone: 6 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 7 in winter.
Longer stays: visas allow up to 90 days. Longer stays need a permit.
Nomad rating: 2/5.
Good to know
Language: English is the official language, with Bemba, Nyanja and Tonga widely spoken.
Currency: Zambian kwacha. US dollars are common at lodges and operators.
Plugs: Types C, D and G, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: a visa is required, available online or on arrival. Check current rules. The KAZA univisa covers Zambia and Zimbabwe for short trips.
Getting around apps: Yango and Uber in Lusaka, taxis in Livingstone.
Tipping: about $10 to $20 per guest per day for safari guides and camp staff.
Water: drink bottled or filtered.
SIM/eSIM: local SIMs are cheap, and eSIMs work in cities.
Meeting people
Social scene: shared dining tables at camps and friendly backpacker lodges in Livingstone.
Apps: expat and travel Facebook groups are more useful than dating apps.
Etiquette: greet people properly and use your right hand when giving and receiving.
Stay smart: book Devil's Pool and walking safaris with licensed operators.
Staying safe
Wildlife: always follow your guide on foot and never walk alone near rivers at night.
Towns: petty theft happens. Keep valuables out of sight.
Water activities: follow safety briefings at the falls, where currents are strong.