Cape Verde
Cape Verde is a small archipelago of volcanic islands in the Atlantic, west of Senegal. Each island has its own character, from desert dunes to lush mountains, and the music is world famous.
Why it is on my list
Volcanic islands off West Africa, with green mountain trails on Santo Antão. Santo Antão is the jewel for hikers, with trails that drop from misty crater rims through terraced valleys to the sea. I want to spend a week walking it, then end on São Vicente for the music.
Best time to go
November to June: dry, sunny and warm, with the best hiking weather.
July to October: hotter, with a brief rainy season and the greenest mountains on Santo Antão.
December to March: breezy, great for windsurfing and kitesurfing on Sal and Boa Vista.
February: Carnival in Mindelo, the biggest party of the year.
Where to stay
Ponta do Sol and Ribeira Grande: Santo Antão's north coast, with village guesthouses and ocean views.
Paul Valley: a green farming valley with family run pensions and hiking access.
Mindelo, São Vicente: the cultural capital, with music bars and colonial buildings.
Santa Maria, Sal: beach resorts and diving.
Praia, Santiago: the capital, with history and local food.
Getting there and around
Airports: Sal (SID) and Praia (RAI) are the main international gateways, plus São Vicente and Boa Vista.
From the US: Boston and Providence have had direct flights to Praia and Sal on Cabo Verde Airlines. Check current schedules, as routes change. Otherwise connect via Lisbon.
Ferry: a roughly one hour crossing links Mindelo and Porto Novo on Santo Antão.
Internal flights: short hops connect islands via Binter and CVA.
Local transport: shared minivans called aluguers cover most roads.
What to eat
Cachupa: the national dish, a slow cooked stew of corn, beans and meat or fish.
Grilled fish: tuna, wahoo and lobster on the coast.
Pastel com diabo dentro: a fried pastry filled with fish.
Goat cheese: from Santo Antão and São Nicolau, often paired with honey.
Xerém: ground corn dish, a close relative of cachupa.
What to drink
Grogue: sugarcane rum, strong and served in small cups.
Ponche: grogue mixed with sugar, honey, or fruit.
Strela and Sagres beer: the local lager.
Fogo coffee: grown on the volcanic slopes of Fogo island.
Cape Verdean wine: Chã das Caldeiras on Fogo produces a rare volcanic wine.
Don't miss
Cova Crater: a lush hike on Santo Antão with views into a green crater.
Paul Valley: a classic walk down terraced farmland to the sea.
Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol: a coastal path cut into cliffs.
Mindelo's live music bars: morna and coladeira nights.
Pico do Fogo: the volcano on Fogo, with a climb through lava fields.
Sal's salt flats: the Pedra de Lume crater, where you can float in salty water.
Day trips and side trips
São Nicolau: quiet hiking with fewer visitors.
Fogo: climb the active volcano and taste local wine.
Boa Vista: dunes, beaches and turtle nesting in summer.
Cidade Velha: the first colonial settlement in the tropics, a UNESCO site near Praia.
Festivals and events
Carnival Mindelo: February or March, with colorful parades.
Baía das Gatas: a music festival on São Vicente, usually in August.
Gamboa Festival: a Praia beach music event, usually in May.
Santa Maria Festival: a Sal island music festival, usually in September.
Music and dance
Morna: the soulful national music, popularized by Cesária Évora.
Funaná and coladeira: faster, danceable styles driven by accordion and rhythm.
Batuku: drumming and chanting led by women, from Santiago.
Nightlife
Cape Verde's nightlife is built around live music and conversation. In Mindelo especially, bars fill with local musicians and dancing.
When people go out: dinner around 8 to 9, music from 10 pm.
Where the action is: Mindelo's Rua de Lisboa and Praia's Plateau, plus beach bars in Santa Maria.
Good to know: the scene is relaxed and friendly. Hikers go to bed early on Santo Antão.
Photography spots
Cova crater rim: misty mornings over green farmland.
Paul Valley: terraced fields in golden afternoon light.
Mindelo harbor: colorful colonial buildings and fishing boats.
Sal salt flats: reflections and surreal color.
Drones: registration and permission are required. Rules vary by island. Check before packing one.
Cost of living
Overall: $$ versus New York, with resorts higher.
Coffee: $1.50 to $3.
Local lunch: $6 to $12.
Dinner for two: $30 to $60.
Beer: $2 to $4.
Mid range hotel: $60 to $130 per night.
Daily budget: $70 to $140.
Island imports push prices up, but local eating stays affordable. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: decent in Mindelo, Praia and Sal, slower in mountain villages.
Coworking: a few spaces in Mindelo and Praia.
Time zone: 3 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 4 in winter.
Longer stays: tourists can stay for up to 90 days. A remote work program offers longer stays. Check details.
Nomad rating: 3/5.
Good to know
Language: Portuguese and Kriolu, with some English, French and Spanish in tourist areas.
Currency: Cape Verdean escudo, pegged to the euro. Euros are accepted in some resorts.
Plugs: Types C and F, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: an online EASE registration and airport security fee are required, and a visa may apply. Check current rules.
Getting around apps: few ride apps, so use taxis and aluguers.
Tipping: about 10 percent is appreciated.
Water: bottled water is safer.
SIM/eSIM: local SIMs are cheap at the airport, and eSIMs work.
Useful phrases
Olá: hello in Portuguese.
Obrigado or obrigada: thank you.
Morabeza: the Cape Verdean spirit of warm hospitality.
Kuma ki bu sta?: how are you in Kriolu.
Meeting people
Social scene: Mindelo's music bars and Santo Antão guesthouses are the easiest places to meet others.
Apps: travel groups on Facebook and WhatsApp are more useful than dating apps.
Etiquette: greet people, and ask before photographing locals.
Stay smart: hire a local guide for the longer mountain hikes.
Staying safe
Hiking: trails are steep and slippery after rain. Go with a guide for remote routes.
Towns: petty theft happens in Praia and Mindelo. Keep valuables hidden.
Sea: currents can be strong, so swim at guarded beaches.