Madagascar

Madagascar is an island continent that split from Africa and India millions of years ago and evolved on its own. Lemurs, chameleons and baobabs are found nowhere else, set against rainforest, tsingy stone forests and long beaches.

Why it is on my list

The Avenue of the Baobabs and lemurs found nowhere else on earth. Baobabs standing in the sunset light is one of the images I most want to see in person, and the lemurs are the reason for the journey.

Best time to go

• April to November: dry season and the best time overall. Roads are passable and wildlife is easier to find.

• July to September: humpback whales in the channel at Sainte-Marie, and cooler weather.

• October to November: lemur babies appear and the baobab light is lovely, but it warms up.

• December to March: hot, wet and cyclone season. Many roads become impassable.

Where to stay

• Morondava: the base for the Avenue of the Baobabs and Kirindy Forest.

• Andasibe: rainforest lodges near the indri lemurs, close to Antananarivo.

• Isalo: canyons and natural pools in the south.

• Nosy Be: beach resorts and islands for snorkeling.

• Antananarivo: a hilly capital for arrival and a short stay.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Antananarivo (TNR) is the main hub. Nosy Be and Morondava have airports.

• From the US: usually two stops via Paris, Nairobi, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg.

• Internal: domestic flights save days on long roads. Road trips need a 4x4 and a driver.

• Taxi-brousse: shared minibuses go everywhere, slowly and crowded.

• Planning: go with a local operator, since distances and roads are tough.

What to eat

• Romazava: beef and greens stew, the national dish.

• Ravitoto: crushed cassava leaves with pork.

• Zebu: grilled or stewed beef from the island's humped cattle.

• Lasary: a pickled vegetable relish served on the side.

• Seafood: prawns, crab and lobster on the coast.

What to drink

• THB: Three Horses Beer, the national lager.

• Rhum arrangé: rum infused with vanilla, ginger or fruit.

• Ranovola: a warm drink made from toasted rice water.

• Malagasy vanilla tea and coffee: vanilla grows in the northeast.

Don't miss

• Avenue of the Baobabs: giant trees lining a dirt road near Morondava at sunset.

• Andasibe-Mantadia: hear the indri's haunting call at dawn.

• Tsingy de Bemaraha: sharp limestone pinnacles with a cliff walk and suspension bridges.

• Kirindy Forest: night walks with fossas and tiny mouse lemurs.

• Isalo National Park: sandstone canyons, ring tailed lemurs and cool swimming pools.

• Ile Sainte-Marie: whale watching and pirate history.

Day trips and side trips

• Kingdom of Baobabs: a second baobab grove, near the main avenue.

• Lemur Island: a private reserve near Andasibe with friendly lemurs.

• Nosy Iranja and Nosy Tanikely: snorkeling day trips from Nosy Be.

• Ambohimanga: a royal hilltop site and UNESCO World Heritage listing near Antananarivo.

Festivals and events

• Donia: a music festival on Nosy Be, usually in May.

• Famadihana: the turning of the bones ceremony, held in the dry season, from about June to September, in the highlands.

• Independence Day: June 26, with parades and parties.

Music and dance

• Salegy: a fast, danceable style from the north.

• Valiha: the bamboo tube zither, Madagascar's national instrument.

• Tsapiky: guitar driven party music from the southwest.

Nightlife

Nightlife is modest outside the capital and beach towns. Antananarivo has bars and live music, and Nosy Be has beach parties.

• When people go out: dinner around 7 to 8, bars busiest on weekends.

• Where the action is: Antananarivo's Isoraka area, and Nosy Be's Madirokely beach.

• Good to know: roads are unlit and unsafe at night. Use taxis through your hotel.

Photography spots

• Avenue of the Baobabs: sunset and sunrise.

• Tsingy de Bemaraha: view platforms over stone forest.

• Isalo: red rock canyons at golden hour.

• Andasibe: misty rainforest and lemurs.

• Drones: permits are required and rules are strict. Check before packing one.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ versus New York, with tours a major cost.

• Coffee: $1 to $2.

• Local lunch: $2 to $5.

• Dinner for two: $15 to $40.

• Beer: $1 to $2.

• Mid range hotel: $50 to $120 per night.

• Daily budget: $80 to $150, more with private drivers.

Food is cheap, but guides, drivers and flights cost most of the trip budget. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: fine in Antananarivo, slow elsewhere.

• Coworking: a few spaces in the capital.

• Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 8 in winter.

• Longer stays: tourist visas cover 30 to 90 days. Longer stays need a permit.

• Nomad rating: 1/5.

Good to know

• Language: Malagasy and French. Little English outside tourism.

• Currency: Malagasy ariary. Bring cash, since card use is limited.

• Plugs: Types C and E, 220V.

• Entry for US citizens: a visa is required, available online or on arrival. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Yango and local taxis in Antananarivo.

• Tipping: a few dollars for guides and drivers is customary.

• Water: drink bottled or filtered.

• SIM/eSIM: local SIMs are cheap in the capital.

Useful phrases

• Salama: hello.

• Misaotra: thank you.

• Azafady: please, or excuse me.

• Veloma: goodbye.

Meeting people

• Social scene: lodge dinners and park guides make for easy conversation.

• Apps: expat Facebook groups are more helpful than dating apps.

• Etiquette: respect fady, local taboos that vary by region. Ask your guide.

• Stay smart: use licensed park guides and agree on prices first.

Staying safe

• Roads: avoid night driving and crowded taxis in the capital.

• Health: take malaria precautions and use insect repellent. Ask a doctor.

• Theft: keep valuables hidden in cities and on beaches. Check current advisories.