Ethiopia
Ethiopia is ancient, mountainous and unlike anywhere else in Africa. It has its own calendar, alphabet and a Christian tradition stretching back some 1,700 years, and landscapes that range from highland monasteries to the hottest place on earth.
Why it is on my list
Churches carved out of solid rock in Lalibela and the lava lakes of the Danakil. Lalibela is a spiritual place, a set of eleven churches cut downward into rock and still used for worship. The Danakil is the opposite: a hot, otherworldly desert that feels like another planet.
Best time to go
October to March: dry season and the best time overall, with clear skies in the highlands.
January: Timkat, the big Epiphany festival, brings processions to Lalibela and Gondar.
November to February: the only sensible window for the Danakil, since temperatures later become extreme.
June to September: the rainy season. Green highlands but muddy roads.
Where to stay
Lalibela: guesthouses and hotels near the churches.
Gondar and Axum: historic castles and ancient obelisks.
Simien Mountains: trekking base for gelada monkeys and cliffs.
Mekele: the gateway to the Danakil and the rock churches of Tigray.
Addis Ababa: a big, busy capital. The Sheraton Addis is a well known option.
Getting there and around
Airports: Addis Ababa Bole (ADD) is the hub. Lalibela, Gondar, Axum and Mekele have airports.
From the US: Ethiopian Airlines flies nonstop from Washington Dulles and other hubs. Connections also run via Europe and the Gulf.
Internal: domestic flights are the practical way to cover long distances.
Danakil: only visited on an organized tour with armed escort, usually from Mekele.
Planning: check current advisories for each region before booking.
What to eat
Injera and wat: sour flatbread with spicy stews, eaten by hand.
Doro wat: spicy chicken stew with a boiled egg.
Tibs: sauteed beef or lamb.
Kitfo: minced raw or lightly cooked beef with spiced butter.
Shiro: a creamy chickpea stew, popular on fasting days.
Fasting food: vegan dishes on Wednesdays, Fridays and in Lent.
What to drink
Ethiopian coffee: the birthplace of coffee, served in a ceremony with roasted beans, incense and popcorn.
Tej: honey wine, sweet and strong.
St. George and Habesha beer: the national lagers.
Tella: a traditional brewed beer. Local bars serve it.
Spriss: layered juices of avocado, papaya and mango.
Don't miss
Lalibela's rock churches: including the cross shaped Bete Giyorgis.
Danakil Depression: the colorful sulfur springs at Dallol and the lava lake at Erta Ale.
Simien Mountains: trekking among gelada monkeys.
Axum: ancient stelae and church of St Mary of Zion.
Gondar's Fasil Ghebbi: the 17th century royal compound.
Addis Ababa's Merkato: one of Africa's largest open air markets.
Coffee ceremony: invite yourself to one in a family house.
Day trips and side trips
Yemrehanna Kristos: a rock church in a cave outside Lalibela.
Tigray rock churches: cliff top churches near Gheralta.
Lake Tana monasteries: island churches reached by boat from Bahir Dar.
Blue Nile Falls: the famous falls near Bahir Dar.
Festivals and events
Timkat: Ethiopian Epiphany, usually January 19.
Meskel: the Finding of the True Cross, usually September 27.
Genna: Ethiopian Christmas, usually January 7.
Ethiopian New Year: Enkutatash, usually September 11.
Music and dance
Azmari: traditional minstrel singers performing in bars.
Eskista: a dance with intense shoulder movements.
Ethio-jazz: a distinctive genre championed by Mulatu Astatke.
Nightlife
Addis Ababa has the most active nightlife, with live azmari bars and clubs. Outside the capital, evenings are quiet.
When people go out: dinner around 8, clubs from 11.
Where the action is: Bole, Kazanchis and Piassa in Addis.
Good to know: fasting days mean fewer meat options, and alcohol is available widely.
Photography spots
Lalibela churches: early morning light and worship scenes. Ask before photographing people.
Simien Mountains: sweeping escarpment views.
Dallol: neon colored salt formations.
Axum stelae: giant carved obelisks.
Drones: permits are required and rules are strict, particularly near heritage sites. Check before packing one.
Cost of living
Overall: $ to $$ versus New York, with tours priced higher.
Coffee: $0.50 to $1.50.
Local lunch: $2 to $5.
Dinner for two: $12 to $30.
Beer: $1 to $2.
Mid range hotel: $50 to $120 per night.
Daily budget: $50 to $100, more for Danakil tours.
Local life is cheap, but organized tours and domestic flights add up. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: spotty and sometimes shut down regionally. Have a backup.
Coworking: some spaces in Addis Ababa.
Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 8 in winter.
Longer stays: e-visas run up to 90 days. Longer stays need a permit.
Nomad rating: 1/5.
Good to know
Language: Amharic is the main working language. English is common in tourism.
Currency: Ethiopian birr. Cards are limited, so bring cash.
Plugs: Types C and F, 220V.
Entry for US citizens: an e-visa is required. Check current rules.
Getting around apps: Ride and Feres in Addis Ababa.
Tipping: about 10 percent in restaurants, and small tips for guides.
Water: drink bottled or filtered.
SIM/eSIM: local SIMs need passport registration.
Useful phrases
Selam: hello.
Ameseginalehu: thank you.
Tadias: hi, informal.
Betam konjo: very beautiful.
Meeting people
Social scene: coffee houses and guesthouses are the best places to meet locals.
Apps: use travel groups on Facebook rather than dating apps.
Etiquette: dress modestly at churches and remove shoes before entering.
Stay smart: hire a licensed guide for church visits and treks.
Staying safe
Advisories: the US government warns against travel to some regions, including Tigray, Amhara and areas near borders. Check current rules.
Danakil: go only with a reputable operator and security escort.
Cities: watch for pickpockets in Addis Ababa and keep phones out of sight.