Kazakhstan

Kazakhstan is the ninth largest country in the world, with steppe, desert canyons and snow peaks. Almaty, the cultural capital at the foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau, is the gateway to some of Central Asia's best landscapes.

Why it is on my list

Almaty, Charyn Canyon and lakes in the mountains. It is on my list because a modern city, a red rock canyon and alpine water all sit within a day's drive of each other. It looks like a place where short trips deliver big scenery.

Best time to go

• May to June: Green hills, wildflowers and pleasant temperatures.

• September to early October: Golden foliage and clear mountain air.

• July and August: Hot in the lowlands but ideal for alpine lakes.

• Winter: Snowy and cold, with good skiing at Shymbulak.

Where to stay

• Almaty center: Walkable to Panfilov Park, cafes and the Green Bazaar.

• Medeu and Shymbulak: For mountain access and skiing.

• Kolsai and Kaindy: Village guesthouses near the lakes.

• Charyn area: Simple cottages and yurt style camps near the canyon.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Almaty (ALA) and Astana (NQZ). From the US, connect via Istanbul, Frankfurt or a Gulf hub.

• Within Almaty: Metro, buses, and ride hailing apps.

• Day trips: Hire a driver or join small group tours.

• Permits: A border zone permit is required for Kolsai, Kaindy and Charyn areas near the Chinese border. Tour operators and guesthouses help arrange it.

What to eat

• Beshbarmak: Boiled meat on flat noodles, the national dish.

• Baursak: Fluffy fried dough served with tea.

• Manty: Steamed dumplings.

• Kazy: Horse meat sausage, a traditional specialty.

• Plov: Rice, lamb and carrot.

• Apples: Almaty means father of apples, and the Aport variety is famous.

What to drink

• Kumis: Fermented mare's milk.

• Shubat: Fermented camel milk, tangy and thick.

• Tea: Black tea with milk is common.

• Coffee: Almaty has a strong specialty coffee scene.

• Beer and vodka: Local lagers and Kazakh vodka are easy to find.

Don't miss

• Charyn Canyon: The Valley of Castles, red and sculpted.

• Big Almaty Lake: Turquoise water at 2,500 meters.

• Kolsai Lakes: Three alpine lakes reached by hiking and driving.

• Lake Kaindy: A flooded forest with drowned spruce trunks.

• Zenkov Cathedral: A wooden church built without nails.

• Kok Tobe: A hill with views and a cable car.

• Tamgaly Tas: Ancient petroglyphs in the Ili Valley.

Day trips and side trips

• Medeu and Shymbulak: An ice rink and ski area above the city.

• Singing Dune: Altyn-Emel National Park.

• Turgen Gorge: Waterfalls and hiking.

• Astana: A futuristic capital reached by a short flight.

Festivals and events

• Nauryz: Spring celebration in March with yurts and horse games.

• Alma-Ata Marathon: Usually in April or September.

• Almaty Jazz and music events: Often in summer and autumn.

• Independence Day: Usually in December.

Music and dance

• Dombra: A two string lute central to Kazakh music.

• Kui: Instrumental pieces that tell stories.

• Folk ensembles: Performances at the Kazakh State Philharmonic.

Nightlife

• When people go out: Dinner from 8 pm and bars past midnight.

• Where the action is: Almaty's Zhibek Zholy, Dostyk Avenue and Kazybek Bi streets.

• Good to know: Almaty has cocktail bars, rooftop spots and live music venues.

Photography spots

• Charyn Canyon at sunset: Warm red walls in low light.

• Kaindy: Mist and sunken trunks in the early morning.

• Kolsai first lake: A still mirror for the pines.

• Almaty from Kok Tobe: City lights below the mountains.

• Drones: Rules and registration apply, and flying near border zones and the capital is restricted, so check current guidance.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ (cheaper than New York).

• Coffee: $3 to $4.

• Local lunch: $6 to $10.

• Dinner for two: $30 to $60.

• Beer: $2 to $4.

• Mid-range hotel: $60 to $110.

• Daily budget: $70 to $140.

More modern and slightly pricier than its neighbors. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Fast in Almaty and Astana.

• Coworking: Several spaces and many laptop friendly cafes in Almaty.

• Time zone: UTC+5, about 9 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer.

• Visa for longer stays: Many travelers can stay visa free for 30 days, with longer stays through registration or permits.

• Nomad rating: 4/5.

Good to know

• Language: Kazakh and Russian. English is common among younger people in Almaty.

• Currency: Kazakhstani tenge. Cards are widely accepted in cities.

• Plugs: Type C and F, 220V.

• Entry for US citizens: Short stays are generally visa free, but check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Yandex Go and inDrive.

• Tipping: About 10 percent in restaurants.

• Water: Bottled recommended.

• SIM/eSIM: Beeline and Kcell offer tourist SIMs.

Useful phrases

• Salem: Hello.

• Rakhmet: Thank you.

• Ia / Zhok: Yes / No.

• Qansha?: How much?

• Dámdi: Tasty.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Almaty's cafes and hiking groups are welcoming.

• Apps: Instagram, Telegram and Meetup for hiking events.

• Etiquette: Take shoes off indoors and accept tea.

• Stay smart: Use ride apps rather than street taxis.

Staying safe

• Take border permits seriously, and carry your passport in the Charyn and Kolsai areas.

• Mountain weather changes quickly, so dress in layers.

• Bring insurance that covers hiking.

• Cross roads carefully in Almaty, as drivers are fast.