Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan holds the great Silk Road cities, with turquoise domes, vast madrasas and bazaars that have traded for a thousand years. It is easier to travel than its reputation suggests, with fast trains, warm hosts and excellent food.

Why it is on my list

Samarkand, Bukhara and the Silk Road. It is on my list because the Registan at dusk is the kind of place I have wanted to stand in for years. Bukhara's old center and Khiva's walled town add a trio of cities that feel like living history.

Best time to go

• April to May: Mild, green and ideal for walking the old towns.

• September to October: Warm days, harvest fruit and fewer crowds.

• July and August: Very hot, often above 40 C.

• Winter: Cold and quiet, with snow possible, but sights are nearly empty.

Where to stay

• Samarkand: Stay near the Registan or Gur-e-Amir for sunset and sunrise walks.

• Bukhara: Courtyard guesthouses in the old town around Lyabi-Hauz.

• Khiva: Inside or beside Itchan Kala, the walled inner city.

• Tashkent: A practical base with a good metro and restaurants.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Tashkent (TAS) is the main hub. Uzbekistan Airways has flown from New York. Otherwise connect via Istanbul or Frankfurt.

• Afrosiyob train: High speed service between Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara.

• Domestic flights and shared taxis: Useful for Khiva and the Nukus region.

• Permits: None needed for main cities. Register at hotels as required.

What to eat

• Plov: The national rice dish with lamb, carrot and chickpeas.

• Samsa: Baked pastries filled with meat and onion.

• Shashlik: Grilled skewers served with raw onion and flatbread.

• Lagman and manti: Noodles and dumplings.

• Non bread: Samarkand's round loaves are stamped and baked in clay ovens.

• Dried fruit and melons: Sweet and fresh from the bazaar.

What to drink

• Green tea: Poured constantly, often with sweets.

• Black tea: Common in the evening.

• Uzbek wine: A tradition around Samarkand, with sweet and dry styles.

• Local beer: Sarbast and Pulsar are widely sold.

• Kompot: Chilled stewed fruit drink.

Don't miss

• Registan, Samarkand: Three madrasas facing one square.

• Shah-i-Zinda: A street of blue tiled mausoleums.

• Kalyan Minaret, Bukhara: The tower that spared Genghis Khan's wrath, as the story goes.

• Ark Fortress: Bukhara's ancient citadel.

• Itchan Kala, Khiva: A walled city you can walk in an afternoon.

• Siab Bazaar: Samarkand's busy produce market.

• Tashkent Metro: Stations decorated like palaces.

Day trips and side trips

• Shahrisabz: Timur's birthplace, a day from Samarkand.

• Aral Sea and Moynaq: A ship graveyard in the desert, from Nukus.

• Fergana Valley: Silk workshops in Margilan and ceramics in Rishtan.

• Nurata and Aydarkul: Desert yurt stays under the stars.

Festivals and events

• Nowruz: Spring new year, usually on March 21, with sumalak and public dancing.

• Sharq Taronalari: A music festival in Samarkand, usually held every two years in late summer.

• Bukhara Silk and Spices Festival: Usually in late May or June.

• Independence Day: Usually on September 1.

Music and dance

• Maqom: Classical modal music from Bukhara, now recognized by UNESCO.

• Folk dance shows: Held in madrasa courtyards in the evening.

• Dutar and doira: A plucked lute and frame drum that you will hear at weddings and restaurants.

Nightlife

• When people go out: Dinner is the main event, often until 10 pm.

• Where the action is: Tashkent has bars, lounges and clubs. Samarkand and Bukhara are mostly rooftop dinners.

• Good to know: Old towns are calm at night and lit beautifully.

Photography spots

• Registan at blue hour: Lit up after sunset.

• Po-i-Kalyan complex: Reflected in the pool at dawn.

• Khiva city walls: Climb for golden light across the rooftops.

• Chor Minor: A small, quirky four minaret gate in Bukhara.

• Drones: Registration is required and flying near monuments is restricted, so check current rules.

Cost of living

• Overall: $ (far cheaper than New York).

• Coffee: $2 to $3.

• Local lunch: $4 to $8.

• Dinner for two: $20 to $40.

• Beer: $1.50 to $3.

• Mid-range hotel: $50 to $100.

• Daily budget: $50 to $110.

Excellent value, with boutique stays at prices that would be unthinkable in Europe. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: Good in Tashkent and Samarkand, variable elsewhere.

• Coworking: A few spaces in Tashkent.

• Time zone: UTC+5, about 9 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer.

• Visa for longer stays: Many travelers can stay visa free for 30 days, with longer options by application.

• Nomad rating: 3/5.

Good to know

• Language: Uzbek and Russian. English is growing in hotels and sights but limited elsewhere.

• Currency: Uzbek som. Cards are widely accepted in cities, with cash for bazaars.

• Plugs: Type C and F, 220V.

• Entry for US citizens: Short stays are generally visa free, but check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Yandex Go for taxis, plus the Uzbekistan Railways site for trains.

• Tipping: About 10 percent in restaurants.

• Water: Bottled.

• SIM/eSIM: Ucell and Beeline are reliable and cheap.

Useful phrases

• Salom: Hello.

• Rahmat: Thank you.

• Ha / Yoq: Yes / No.

• Qancha turadi?: How much is it?

• Juda mazali: Very delicious.

Meeting people

• Social scene: Guesthouse courtyards and tea houses make it easy to chat.

• Apps: Instagram and Telegram are widely used.

• Etiquette: Dress modestly at religious sites, and accept offered tea or bread.

• Stay smart: Agree taxi fares or use an app, and keep receipts from currency exchange.

Staying safe

• Uzbekistan is generally safe for travelers, with low street crime.

• Summer heat is the main risk, so carry water and plan indoor time at midday.

• Keep your hotel registration slips if given.

• Avoid photographing police, military or government buildings.