Lebanon

Lebanon packs Phoenician ports, Roman temples, cedar forests and one of the great food cultures of the Mediterranean into a country the size of Connecticut. Beirut is creative, resilient and endlessly social.

Why it is on my list

Beirut nights, the Roman temples of Baalbek and Byblos, one of the oldest towns on earth. Baalbek has some of the best preserved Roman ruins anywhere, and Byblos has been inhabited for some seven thousand years. I want to see both, then eat my way through Beirut.

Best time to go

• April to June: warm, green and pleasant, with wildflowers in the mountains.

• September to November: warm sea, fewer crowds and the grape harvest.

• July and August: hot and busy, and the main festival season.

• December to March: cool and rainy, with snow in the mountains.

Where to stay

• Beirut's Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael: restaurants and bars within walking distance.

• Hamra: a cosmopolitan university area with cafes.

• Batroun and Byblos: coastal towns with beaches and old harbors.

• Zahle and the Bekaa Valley: wine country and a base for Baalbek.

• Mountain villages: guesthouses near the Cedars and Qadisha Valley.

Getting there and around

• Airport: Beirut Rafic Hariri (BEY).

• From the US: usually one stop via Europe, Istanbul or the Gulf. Check which carriers are currently flying.

• Internal: distances are short. Hire a driver or use taxis, since public transport is limited.

• Roads: traffic in Beirut is heavy, and mountain roads wind.

• Planning: check the security situation and travel advisories before booking.

What to eat

• Mezze: a table of small dishes: hummus, tabbouleh, baba ghanoush and more.

• Kibbeh: fried or baked meat and bulgur, sometimes raw.

• Manoushe: flatbread baked with za'atar or cheese for breakfast.

• Fattoush: a salad with crispy bread and sumac.

• Knafeh: a sweet cheese pastry soaked in syrup.

• Sea food in Batroun: grilled fish with lemon and olive oil.

What to drink

• Arak: an anise spirit mixed with water and ice, served with mezze.

• Lebanese wine: Bekaa Valley wineries include Ksara and Chateau Musar.

• Almaza: the national beer.

• Lebanese coffee: a cardamom scented Turkish style brew.

• Jallab: a grape molasses and rose water drink.

Don't miss

• Baalbek: the Temples of Jupiter and Bacchus, among the largest Roman remains.

• Byblos: the old port, crusader castle and Phoenician ruins.

• Jeita Grotto: cave with enormous stalactites, reached by boat.

• Beirut's corniche: walk by the sea at sunset.

• Qadisha Valley and the Cedars: ancient cedar forest and monasteries.

• Tyre: Roman hippodrome and Phoenician heritage.

Day trips and side trips

• Sidon: a sea castle and traditional souk.

• Anjar: an Umayyad ruin city in the Bekaa.

• Beiteddine Palace: an Ottoman palace in the Chouf mountains.

• Harissa: a mountain top Virgin Mary statue with views over the bay.

Festivals and events

• Baalbeck International Festival: music and dance in the Roman temples, usually in July and August.

• Byblos International Festival: concerts in the old harbor, usually in summer.

• Beiteddine Art Festival: summer performances in the palace.

Music and dance

• Fairuz: Lebanon's most beloved singer, heard in cafes and taxis.

• Dabke: a line dance performed at weddings and festivals.

• Oud and arabic jazz: small venues in Beirut.

Nightlife

Beirut has long been known as the nightlife capital of the Arab world, with bars, clubs and rooftops. In summer, the beach clubs and seaside towns keep the party going.

• When people go out: dinner after 9, bars from 11, clubs after midnight.

• Where the action is: Mar Mikhael and Gemmayzeh in Beirut, and Batroun on the coast.

• Good to know: the scene is liberal in Beirut, more traditional elsewhere. Check what is open.

Photography spots

• Baalbek: giant columns in golden hour.

• Byblos harbor: fishing boats and the old castle.

• Raouche Rocks: sea arches at sunset in Beirut.

• Qadisha Valley: dramatic cliffs and cedar trees.

• Drones: restricted, and permits are needed. Flying without approval can lead to detention. Check before packing one.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$$ versus New York, since the economy runs largely on US dollars.

• Coffee: $2 to $4.

• Local lunch: $8 to $15.

• Dinner for two: $50 to $100.

• Beer: $3 to $6.

• Mid range hotel: $80 to $200 per night.

• Daily budget: $100 to $200.

Prices in Beirut can surprise visitors, though village food is cheaper. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: variable, with frequent power cuts. Many cafes use generators.

• Coworking: spaces exist in Beirut.

• Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern.

• Longer stays: visitors can stay up to 3 months with extensions. Check current rules.

• Nomad rating: 2/5.

Good to know

• Language: Arabic, French and English. English is widely spoken.

• Currency: Lebanese pound, but US dollars are widely used.

• Plugs: Types C, D and G, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: generally a visa on arrival for short stays. Check current rules.

• Getting around apps: Uber, Bolt and local taxi apps in Beirut.

• Tipping: about 10 to 15 percent in restaurants.

• Water: bottled water is safer.

• SIM/eSIM: Alfa and Touch SIMs are available, and eSIMs work.

Useful phrases

• Marhaba: hello.

• Shukran: thank you.

• Kifak or kifik: how are you, to a man or woman.

• Yalla: let's go.

Meeting people

• Social scene: cafes, rooftops and wine bars make it easy to meet people.

• Apps: dating apps work in Beirut, and Couchsurfing communities are active.

• Etiquette: hospitality is generous, so accept the coffee or tea.

• Stay smart: avoid political and sectarian topics with new acquaintances.

Staying safe

• Advisories: the US government currently urges against travel to Lebanon. Read the latest guidance and consider insurance carefully.

• Borders: avoid the south, the Syrian border and the Bekaa near the border without local advice.

• Preparation: register with the embassy's traveler program and keep plans flexible.