Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia is opening to visitors, and the scale is huge. There are desert canyons, Nabataean tombs, a coral coast and a capital changing at speed. It is a country where ancient heritage and bold new projects sit side by side.
Why it is on my list
AlUla, the tombs of Hegra and the Edge of the World outside Riyadh. The red sandstone landscape of AlUla and the tombs of Hegra feel like a quieter cousin of Petra, and the cliffs of the Edge of the World give the desert a sense of true scale.
Best time to go
October to March: the best months, with warm days and cool nights. Winter is festival season.
April and May: warming up, but still comfortable in the mountains.
June to September: extreme heat, often above 104 F (40 C) in the desert and on the coast. Not ideal for outdoor sightseeing.
Ramadan: dates vary each year. Daytime dining is limited and hours change.
Where to stay
AlUla: desert resorts such as Habitas AlUla and Banyan Tree AlUla.
Riyadh: a modern base with the Diriyah heritage district nearby.
Jeddah: the historic Al-Balad quarter and the Red Sea.
Abha and the Asir mountains: cooler highlands and mountain villages.
Red Sea coast: new beach resorts and diving.
Getting there and around
Airports: Riyadh King Khalid (RUH), Jeddah King Abdulaziz (JED) and AlUla (ULH).
From the US: usually one stop via Europe or the Gulf. Direct options have grown, so check schedules.
Internal: domestic flights link the main cities. Renting a car is good in AlUla.
Tours: Hegra is visited by guided tour only, booked ahead.
Rail: the high speed Haramain line links Jeddah and Medina. Mecca and Medina's holy areas are closed to non Muslims.
What to eat
Kabsa: spiced rice with chicken or lamb, the national dish.
Mandi: slow cooked meat and rice from Yemen, popular across the country.
Jareesh: a wheat porridge with meat and spices.
Mutabbaq: a stuffed pan fried pastry, a street snack.
Dates: served with every coffee, in dozens of varieties.
Shawarma: sold at every corner.
What to drink
Alcohol is banned in Saudi Arabia, so the drinks scene centers on coffee, tea and fresh drinks.
Saudi coffee (gahwa): lightly roasted with cardamom, poured from a dallah pot into small cups.
Karak and mint tea: sweet spiced milk tea and fresh mint tea.
Laban: a salty yogurt drink.
Fresh juices: pomegranate, sugarcane and lemon mint.
Non alcoholic mocktails: common in cafes and restaurants.
Don't miss
Hegra: a UNESCO site with more than 100 Nabataean tombs.
Edge of the World: dramatic cliffs on the edge of the Tuwaiq Escarpment.
Elephant Rock: a natural sandstone formation in AlUla at sunset.
Diriyah: the mud brick birthplace of the first Saudi state.
Al-Balad in Jeddah: coral stone houses and souks.
Maraya: a mirrored concert hall in the desert.
Day trips and side trips
Dadan: an ancient kingdom capital near AlUla.
Jabal Ikmah: an open air library of inscriptions.
Riyadh Boulevard and Kingdom Centre: modern attractions in the capital.
Farasan Islands: a protected archipelago on the Red Sea.
Festivals and events
Winter at Tantora: AlUla's music and arts festival, usually from December to January.
Riyadh Season: a long entertainment season, usually from October to March.
MDLBEAST Soundstorm: a large electronic music festival in Riyadh, usually in December.
Saudi National Day: September 23, with events across the country.
Music and dance
Ardah: a traditional sword dance with drums.
Khaliji and oud music: heard at cultural events and festivals.
Nightlife
There are no bars, but the social scene is lively. Evenings are for cafes, dining, concerts and walks.
When people go out: late dinners around 9 to 10, cafes open past midnight.
Where the action is: Riyadh's Boulevard and Diriyah, Jeddah's corniche, AlUla's festival grounds.
Good to know: concerts and festivals now draw large crowds, with mixed audiences.
Photography spots
Hegra: golden tombs against a clear sky.
Edge of the World: sunrise over the escarpment.
Elephant Rock: a classic sunset photo.
Al-Balad: wooden balconies and narrow lanes.
Drones: a strict permit and registration system applies, and flying without approval is not allowed. Check before packing one. Ask permission before photographing people.
Cost of living
Overall: $$ to $$$ versus New York.
Coffee: $3 to $6.
Local lunch: $5 to $12.
Dinner for two: $40 to $90.
Non alcoholic drink: $2 to $5.
Mid range hotel: $100 to $250 per night.
Daily budget: $120 to $250.
Desert resorts in AlUla are the splurge, while Riyadh and Jeddah are good value for food. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: fast in cities.
Coworking: plenty of spaces in Riyadh and Jeddah.
Time zone: 7 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 8 in winter.
Longer stays: the tourist eVisa allows up to 90 days per visit. Longer stays need other permits.
Nomad rating: 3/5.
Good to know
Language: Arabic, with English widely spoken in cities.
Currency: Saudi riyal, pegged to the US dollar. Cards are widely accepted.
Plugs: Types G and sometimes A and B, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: an eVisa is available online. Check current rules.
Getting around apps: Uber and Careem.
Tipping: about 10 percent in restaurants, if service is not included.
Water: bottled water is common, though tap water is treated.
SIM/eSIM: STC, Mobily and Zain offer tourist SIMs, and eSIMs work.
Useful phrases
Salaam alaikum: peace be upon you, the greeting.
Shukran: thank you.
Afwan: you are welcome.
Inshallah: God willing.
Meeting people
Social scene: cafes and cultural events are the main places to meet people.
Apps: use Meetup or Couchsurfing communities rather than dating apps.
Etiquette: dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, and accept coffee when offered. Public displays of affection are discouraged.
Stay smart: avoid photographing government buildings and ask before taking pictures of people.
Staying safe
Rules: laws are strict on alcohol, drugs and public conduct. Learn them before you go.
Borders: the US government advises against travel near the Yemen border. Check current advisories.
Heat: drink plenty of water, and plan outdoor activity around dawn and dusk.