Namibia

Namibia is one of the emptiest countries on earth, a landscape of red dunes, ghost towns and a desert that meets the Atlantic. Roads run straight for hours, the skies are huge and the stars are exceptional.

Why it is on my list

The red dunes of Sossusvlei and the Skeleton Coast. It looks like another planet, with the oldest desert in the world running into a cold, foggy coast of shipwrecks and seals.

Best time to go

• May to October: dry, cool and clear. Best for game viewing at Etosha waterholes.

• November to April: hot, with rain showers and green landscapes. Good for birds and fewer people.

• Sossusvlei: comfortable April to October. Midsummer is very hot.

• Skeleton Coast: cool and foggy year round, so pack layers.

• Crowds: July to October is busiest.

Where to stay

• Sesriem and Sossusvlei: sleep inside or near the park so you reach the dunes at sunrise. Kulala Desert Lodge is a popular choice.

• Swakopmund: German style coastal town and adventure hub.

• Skeleton Coast: Shipwreck Lodge is a remote, well known option.

• Etosha: waterhole camps at Okaukuejo and Halali.

• Windhoek: a night at either end of the trip.

Getting there and around

• Airports: Windhoek Hosea Kutako (WDH) and Walvis Bay (WVB).

• From the US: connect via Johannesburg, Doha or Frankfurt.

• Internal: self drive is the classic way. Drive on the left, watch for gravel roads and carry a spare tire. Fly in safaris cover remote regions.

• Permits: the Skeleton Coast National Park requires entry permits, often arranged through lodges or tours. Park fees apply at Sossusvlei.

What to eat

• Game meat: oryx, kudu and springbok steaks.

• Kapana: grilled street meat in Windhoek and northern towns.

• Oysters: farmed at Walvis Bay.

• Biltong and droewors: dried meat snacks.

• German bakeries: pastries and rye bread in Swakopmund.

What to drink

• Windhoek Lager: brewed under a German purity law.

• Craft beer: Camelthorn and others.

• Rooibos tea: widely served.

• Amarula: cream liqueur for sundowners.

Don't miss

• Sossusvlei and Deadvlei: red dunes and a white clay pan with dead camel thorn trees.

• Dune 45: a popular sunrise climb.

• Skeleton Coast: shipwrecks and cape fur seals.

• Kolmanskop: an abandoned diamond mining town swallowed by sand.

• Etosha National Park: elephants, lions and rhinos at waterholes.

• Fish River Canyon: the second largest canyon in the world.

• Spitzkoppe: granite peaks and rock arches.

Day trips and side trips

• Swakopmund adventures: sandboarding, quad bikes and skydiving.

• Walvis Bay lagoon: flamingos and dolphin cruises.

• Sandwich Harbour: dunes that drop into the ocean, best by 4x4 tour.

• Damaraland: desert elephants and rock art at Twyfelfontein.

Festivals and events

• Windhoek Karneval (WIKA): usually in April.

• Swakopmund Karneval: usually in April.

• Windhoek Oktoberfest: usually in October.

Music and dance

• Kwaito and house: popular in Windhoek clubs.

• Oshiwambo and Herero choral traditions: heard at community events.

Nightlife

Nightlife is concentrated in Windhoek and Swakopmund, with beer gardens and a few clubs. Elsewhere, the night sky is the entertainment.

• When people go out: dinner at 7 or 8, bars until late on weekends.

• Where the action is: Joe's Beerhouse in Windhoek, Swakopmund's seafront.

• Good to know: do not drink and drive. Police checks are common.

Photography spots

• Big Daddy dune: tallest dune near Sossusvlei, with golden sunrise light.

• Deadvlei: black trees, white clay and red dunes.

• Spitzkoppe: Milky Way over granite arches.

• Kolmanskop: peeling rooms filled with sand.

• Drones: need permits and are banned in protected areas like Sossusvlei. Check before flying.

Cost of living

• Overall: $$ versus New York, higher for lodges.

• Coffee: $2 to $3.

• Local lunch: $6 to $10.

• Dinner for two: $35 to $70.

• Beer: $1.50 to $3.

• Mid range hotel: $90 to $180 per night.

• Daily budget: $120 to $200, plus car rental.

Distances make transport the main expense. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.

Working remotely

• Wi-Fi: acceptable in Windhoek and Swakopmund, absent in much of the desert.

• Coworking: a few in Windhoek.

• Time zone: 6 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 7 in winter.

• Longer stays: tourist stays are limited. Longer visits need a permit.

• Nomad rating: 2/5.

Good to know

• Language: English is official, with Afrikaans, German and many local languages.

• Currency: Namibian dollar, pegged to the rand. Rand is also accepted.

• Plugs: Types D and M, 230V.

• Entry for US citizens: visa rules have changed recently. Check current rules before booking.

• Getting around apps: Hello Taxi and Bolt in Windhoek. Otherwise rent a car.

• Tipping: 10 percent in restaurants. Tip petrol attendants a few dollars.

• Water: generally safe in towns. Bottled elsewhere.

• SIM/eSIM: MTC and Telecom Namibia. Coverage is thin outside towns.

Useful phrases

• Hallo: hello, widely used.

• Danke or Dankie: thank you in German or Afrikaans.

• Moro: good morning in Oshiwambo.

• Lekker: great.

Meeting people

• Social scene: small and warm. Lodges and campsites are the social centers.

• Apps: Facebook groups and overland travel forums.

• Etiquette: greet before asking questions. Ask before photographing Himba people.

• Stay smart: tell someone your route when driving remote roads.

Staying safe

• Driving: gravel roads and long distances. Fill the tank at every chance and avoid driving at night.

• Remote routes: carry extra water and a spare tire.

• Cities: Windhoek has opportunistic theft. Keep valuables out of sight.