Rwanda
Rwanda is the land of a thousand hills, small, green and unusually orderly. It offers some of the rarest wildlife encounters in the world and a capital that has become one of Africa's cleanest and safest cities.
Why it is on my list
An hour with the mountain gorillas. Mountain gorillas number only about 1,000 in the wild, and sitting a few meters from a silverback is something I want to do properly and respectfully.
Best time to go
June to September: the main dry season, with the best trekking conditions.
December to February: a shorter dry season and warm days.
March to May: heavy rains and muddy trails, but quieter and cheaper.
Crowds: permits sell out in peak months, so book months ahead.
Where to stay
Musanze and Volcanoes National Park: the base for gorilla treks. Bisate Lodge and Singita Kwitonda are known high end options.
Kigali: hotels and guesthouses in Kiyovu and Kimihurura. Hotel des Mille Collines is the famous landmark.
Lake Kivu (Gisenyi or Kibuye): beach towns and calm swimming.
Nyungwe Forest: a rainforest base for chimpanzees and canopy walks.
Akagera: savanna lodges for Big Five safari.
Getting there and around
Airport: Kigali International (KGL), with connections via Europe, the Gulf and East Africa.
From the US: connect via Europe, Doha, Addis Ababa or Nairobi.
Internal: good paved roads. Kigali to Musanze is about 2 hours by road.
Permits: a gorilla trekking permit currently costs $1,500 per person and is bought through the Rwanda Development Board or an operator. Check current pricing.
What to eat
Brochettes: grilled meat skewers, the national favorite.
Isombe: cassava leaves with eggplant and peanuts.
Ubugali: a firm cassava or maize porridge.
Sambaza: tiny crispy fish from Lake Kivu.
Mizuzu: fried plantain.
What to drink
Rwandan coffee: smooth and floral, grown on volcanic hillsides.
Rwandan tea: from Nyungwe and Gisovu plantations.
Primus and Mützig: local lagers.
Urwagwa: traditional banana beer.
Don't miss
Gorilla trek in Volcanoes National Park: one hour with a gorilla family after a hike of one to four hours.
Kigali Genocide Memorial: an essential, moving visit that explains the country today.
Golden monkey trek: a friendly, easier alternative.
Nyungwe canopy walk: suspended walkway above the rainforest.
Lake Kivu: boat trips and the Congo Nile Trail.
Inema Arts Center: contemporary Rwandan art in Kigali.
Day trips and side trips
Akagera National Park: a 2.5 hour drive from Kigali for safari.
Musanze caves: volcanic lava tunnels.
Dian Fossey tomb hike: a long hike on the slopes of Mount Karisimbi.
Huye (Butare): national museum and traditional crafts.
Festivals and events
Kwita Izina: the gorilla naming ceremony, usually in September.
Kigali Up: music festival, usually in August or September.
Hillywood Film Festival: usually in July.
Liberation Day: July 4.
Music and dance
Intore dance: athletic warrior style dance with drums.
Afrobeats and Rwandan pop: the sound of Kigali's clubs.
Inanga: traditional zither music.
Nightlife
Kigali is calm and safe but has a growing set of bars, live music nights and clubs. Most places close earlier than in neighboring capitals.
When people go out: dinner at 8, bars until 1 or 2.
Where the action is: Kimihurura, Kiyovu and Remera.
Good to know: motos are everywhere. Use a helmet.
Photography spots
Volcanoes National Park: misty volcano peaks and bamboo forest.
Kigali Convention Centre: a striking modern landmark at dusk.
Lake Kivu: sunset over the islands.
Nyungwe: tea plantations and rainforest views.
Drones: require permits and are banned in national parks. Do not bring one without approval.
Cost of living
Overall: $$ to $$$ versus New York, with gorilla permits as the big cost.
Coffee: $2 to $3.
Local lunch: $3 to $6.
Dinner for two: $25 to $50.
Beer: $1.50 to $3.
Mid range hotel: $80 to $150 per night.
Daily budget: $100 to $180, plus the permit.
The permit costs more than most flights. Prices are approximate in US dollars as of 2026.
Working remotely
Wi-Fi: fast and reliable in Kigali, with strong 4G coverage across the country.
Coworking: several options in Kigali.
Time zone: 6 hours ahead of US Eastern in summer, 7 in winter.
Longer stays: short stay visas are extendable. Residence options exist for longer stays.
Nomad rating: 3/5.
Good to know
Language: Kinyarwanda, English, French and Swahili. English is widely spoken in Kigali.
Currency: Rwandan franc.
Plugs: Types C and J, 230V.
Entry for US citizens: visa on arrival or online. Check current rules.
Getting around apps: Yego Moto, Uber and Bolt.
Tipping: not expected but appreciated. Tip trackers and guides after gorilla treks.
Water: drink bottled or filtered.
SIM/eSIM: MTN and Airtel. SIM registration needs your passport.
Plastic bags: banned, so skip them when packing.
Useful phrases
Muraho: hello.
Murakoze: thank you.
Yego: yes.
Oya: no.
Meeting people
Social scene: polite and reserved, but welcoming. Kigali has expat and tech communities.
Apps: Meetup and Facebook groups.
Etiquette: speak respectfully about the 1994 genocide and follow the guidance at memorials.
Stay smart: Umuganda community work happens on the last Saturday morning of each month, when shops may close.
Staying safe
Overall: Rwanda is among the safest countries in Africa for travelers.
Health: do not trek gorillas if you have a cold or flu, as the animals are vulnerable.
Altitude: volcano treks reach up to 3,000 meters, so pace yourself.